Eagle

I'm glad to know the brute force method prevails. Years ago I asked the shop foreman at my dealer about borrowing their tool. He said they had it on the shelf for more than ten years and had never used it, so they eventually threw it out to make room for new tools.

4.10s with 32" tires is hardly "overgearing." Stock tires with 3.54 gears turn 2336 RPM at 70 MPH. 32" tires with 4.10 gears turn 2375 RPM at 70 MPH. You're basically matching stock final drive ratio.

My personal rule of thumb is 3:54 for stock tires, 3.73s for 30" tires, 4.10s for 31s and maybe 32s, and 4.56 or 4.88 for anything larger than 32".

From time spent in South America with my wife, visiting her family, it is my understanding that those rumors are true. However, I can't say that I've seen one. My wife was from Chile. I've been wheeling with a friend in Chile, but the Jeeps in Chile are built in the U.S., not Venezuela.

I wonder what the breakover angle is.

I see a bunch of crap on the roof, and I don't see gutters. That stuff on the roof holds moisture and accelerates deterioration of the roof.

Before you get any deeper into this, you need to realign your thinking. The landlord's realtor works for the landlord. He or she gets paid a percentage of the selling price. It should be obvious, then, that he or she has ZERO incentive to in any way help you buy the house for a lower price. The landlord's realtor CANNOT tell you "what the price should be." He or she can tell you what he or she and the landlord would like the price to be. You do not have to accept that as gospel, and you should not. This is why you need a qualified appraiser. You tossed out a number of $98k. Suppose you think you're willing to pay $98k for the house. You go to a bank, and they don't think the house is worth $98k, so you're not getting a mortgage. As Jeep Driver said, realtors sell. Appraisers appraise. But even an appraiser can't tell you what the price "should" be. All an appraiser does is look at the house, and then look around the neighborhood to find what roughly comparable houses have sold for recently. You'll hear the term "comps" thrown around. That's shorthand for "comparable values." But virtually no two houses are exactly the same, so the "comps" are only an approximation. If the owner's realtor thinks the house "should" sell for $98k, that's a starting point. Unless your appraiser thinks it's worth more, then you use the home inspection report to negotiate down from the $98k starting point. For example, you've told us that the electrical system is substandard. Make sure the home inspector takes a close look at that. If it's unsafe, then get a couple or three estimates from licensed electricians for bringing it up to snuff. Don't figure on doing it yourself. Maybe you have the time and the skills, but you have a job, and a life. If you figure only the cost of materials, then basically you are giving the seller the value of the labor, when that should be factored into the selling price. Other things to be sure the inspector looks at: Roof. Be sure it's in good shape. Check how many layers there are. Codes only allow two layers, but a new roof put over an existing roof never lasts as long as doing a tear-off. Furnace or boiler. How old is it? What;s the burner efficiency? Has it been maintained regularly? Plumbing. It's an older house, right? My house is 69 years old. All the water piping and most of the baseboard heating piping is copper. The water here is hard. The copper pipes are beginning to spring leaks, just due to age and chemical action. If you have copper joining to iron or steel pipe, look for corrosion. Especially check for lead pipes. Is there a masonry chimney? If so, does it have a tile-lined flue? Check the tiles for cracks. Check the masonry to see if it needs to be repointed. Lead paint. You're going to be starting a family. Lead paint is bad for children. Some states require lead paint to be abated. Who pays for that is part of the negotiations. Ditto for asbestos. You may have it on pipes or on or in the furnace or boiler.

All correct, and excellent advice. Most realtors, in fact, aren't qualified as appraisers.

Test 5

Test 1

That's actually not a bad price, considering that it includes the header, the grille, the headlights and the parking lights. It makes a Cherokee look at bit like a Commander. IMHO it just looks strange on a Comanche, though.

Looks good. How much did you take off to get it cleaned up like that?

It is what it is. But you wrote " i found a leak on the passenger side manifold, bad idle and a small low end hp and torque loss ..." A "loss" means that on Thursday that particular vehicle has less torque and/or horsepower than that particular vehicle had on Tuesday. If that particular vehicle doesn't perform the way some other vehicle performs, tjhat's not a loss -- that's a difference between two different vehicles. Look at the chart that JMO413 posted. The horsepower peak is at 5200 RPM. That's higher than most engines I've ever driven -- pretty much anything I've ever owned was redlined at 5000 RPM. And the torque peak is at 3600 RPM. It's no surprise that it feels flat at low RPM. I don't think it "lost" anything. I don't think it ever had what you were expecting to find.

What is your baseline for diagnosing a torque and HP loss at low RPM? Loss compared to what? I briefly owned a 1999 WJ with the 4.7L engine. It spent more time in the shop than it did with me. During one lengthy shop period, the dealership gave me a 5.2L ZJ as a loaner vehicle. Based on the seat-of-pants dyno, the older 5.2L had GOBS more low-end torque than the brand-new 4.7L. The 4.7L didn't start to wake up until it was over 3,000 or 3,500 RPM. Since I never flog my rides like that, the only times I ever saw those RPMs were in passing situations on 2-lane roads when the tranny kicked down as I was accelerating to pass. On those occasions it would take off like the proverbial scalded cat. Under normal driving, it was like driving a brick. I have one of those cheap, Harbor Freight Tools folding utility trailers. I had that behind the WJ with some bags of topsoil from Lowe's for my then-girlfriend's garden. The load was WELL under the rated towing capacity for the vehicle, but it felt like the parking brake was on the whole way. To be honest, my 4.0L XJs and MJs pulled better when towing than the 4.7L. Bottom line: IMHO, the 4.7L engine is a passenger car engine that should not be used in Jeeps or pickup trucks. It's not a torque engine, it's a high-revving RPM-oriented engine. I hope I never own another one.

This doesn't pertain directly to MJs, but a number of XJs came with ABS and the paper I'll provide a link to is fairly technical, so I'm going to post this here rather than in The Pub. I have often mentioned that I use and recommend only silicone brake fluid, especially in older vehicles such as our MJs and XJs, some of which aren't daily drivers and which may sit for extended periods of time. Internal corrosion due to moisture in the system, a result of the hygroscopic ("attracts water") nature of glycol-based brake fluids, is the culprit. Silicone brake fluid isn't hygroscopic and doesn't collect moisture vapor out of the air over time. This means that if you use silicone brake fluid you don't need to flush the brake system annually. But ... I have always heard and read that you can't use silicone brake fluid in anti-lock brake systems, but nobody ever said why not. I knew that the U.S. Army had long ago standardized on the use of silicone brake fluid (for which they have, of course, an acronym: SBF). I just discovered that they performed a formal evaluation on the use of their silicone brake fluid in commercial anti-lock brake systems. It makes for an interesting read. https://events.esd.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Silicone-Brake-Fluid-Compatibility-with-Anti-Lock-Braking-Systems-for-Identifying-Future-Military-Brake-Fluid-Requirements.pdf In my case, even though most of the 2000 XJs on the dealer's lot had ABS, I special ordered both of mine, and one of the reasons was that I specifically did not want ABS. I'm not sorry that I didn't get it.

I hope you understand that the 2000 XJ engine has a lot of things that are different from the '87 MJ. The ignition and injection system is totally different, using a different fuel pump, operating at a different pressure, and the ECU until it different. The CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) operates on a different principle, requiring a different tone ring on the flywheel. And, since you want to change the XJ engine to a 5-speed when you put it into the MJ, that means you don't have a flywheel that will operate with the 2000 ECU, ignition, and injection system. What that means is that the easiest way to swap that engine into your MJ is to strip everything off it and treat it like a long block -- use only the block and the head, and keep the '87 manifolds and accessories. That way, you can keep the '87 ECU, flywheel, fuel pump, and CPS.

All they're missing is Yugo ...

I would be more interested in their one-piece window glass and regulators for the old-style doors.

Coal oil lamps for the win.

Also, check to be sure that there are no kinks or sharp bends in the route the speedo cable follows from the transfer case to the speedo head. Tight bends can cause jumping.

Ecclesiastes 1:9

Looks like someone might be looking forward to getting their driver's license.

By the time I hit "Submit Topic" it will be Monday, so it's time for my annual rant about Memorial Day. As you all get together for family or neighborhood barbecues, or sit back and watch the auto races, please take a few minutes to spend in quiet reflection of the meaning of Memorial Day. It's the day we set aside out of each year to remember, honor, and give thanks to those who answered the call of duty and who gave their lives protecting our Constitution and our freedoms as Americans. Memorial Day is not the day to thank me or or Shelbyluv or any of the other veterans on this forum for our service. We have our own day, later in the year. Those of us here who served somewhere in combat ... we came home. We're thankful for that. Memorial Day is the day when we are supposed to honor our comrades in arms who fell in the line of duty, and who came home in a box. ]

I would cut the flange off the old cat and weld or clamp it to the new cat. The factory down pipe is designed to be supported by the transmission mount. If you cut the flange off the down pipe, you lose that support. If nknapp doesn't have the original cat with the flange, maybe some other CC member has an old cat and could provide the flange with a short section of pipe still attached.

Not random. Back then, the AMC 20 was the optional, heavy duty axle. It was supplanted by the Dana 44 in the 1987 model year.