Eagle

The rotor doesn't line up with the tower when the timing mark on the vibration damper is at TDC (top-dead-center). It would line up only if the timing was to be set for exactly TDC ... but it isn't.

LWB had either a 16 or 23.5 gallon. All SWB models, including the Eliminator, had an 18-gallon tank.

That's correct. The distributor has "ears" that lock it in one position. The timing is not adjustable.

Don't you just hate it when you get upstaged by a rookie?

You want to leave enough "tooth" for the new paint to grab onto. If I were doing it, I'd probably go to 400 grit. If I were advising someone else, I'd probably suggest a final sanding at 800 grit.

I've got a 2.5/5 speed with 3.55 Then again it came with a 4 speed... I'm thinking about dropping in a 5-speed when I replace the clutch in my 2.5L 4-speed. How does the 5th gear work with the 3.55 gears? Can you use 5th gear at all?

Going from 35 to 34 teeth is only a 2.8% change. That's only going to bring your speedo up from 65 to about 67 MPH. I think you need at least ("at most"?) a 33-tooth gear.

The chain itself is good for at least 200,000 miles, probably more. The issue with the 2.5 liter is that Jeep used the same timing chain they used on the 4.0L, but the deck height on the 4-cylinder engine is lower. That left slack in the chain, so they put a tensioner on the timing chain cover, and the tensioner wears out. Once you get the front cover off, you may find that you don't need a timing chain at all, just the tensioner. However, once you're in there, timing chains aren't expensive, so it would make sense to replace it.

There are two latch mechanisms, one on each pedestal. The one for the passenger side has no handle/lever -- it's connected to the driver's side by a wire. If (when?) the wire breaks, you can't move the seat because the right side won't release.

Guys, I need some assistance. I shoot at a small, commercial shooting range. They hold an informal weekly competition. There's a raffle for a small share of the weekly fee, but what's really at stake is bragging rights. (Although I'm not sure why I might wish to contemplate bragging that I have an ironclad grip on last place, but ...) Anyhoo -- bragging rights don't mean much if nobody can remember who shot what score, when. The range owner asked me if I can come up with a way to use the computer to track the standings. I know I could do something quick and dirty in Excel, but I think a database solution would be better. Does anyone have enough database experience to help me set something up? I have (pardon the pun) access to Access, Paradox, Lotus Approach, and Alpha Five. I don't know for sure that the range has Access on their computer. I have the runtime module for Alpha Five, so my preference would be to create the database in Alpha Five and then convert it to a free-standing application. But -- even if I have to set up a trial version in Access first, that'll show me the structure and I can work from that to migrate it to Alpha Five. Any database gurus out there?

All Comanches have the bottom overload leaf. That's just like the one in Pete's photo. That's a half-length (or less) leaf that it VERY thick at the center, where it goes through the U-bolts. The overload leaf doesn't have friction pads and normally never touches the other leaves at the tips -- there should be air space, just like in Pete's photo. It also doesn't run through the rebound clips. The Metric Tonne springs have, I believe, one more leaf than the standard MJ springs. The extra leaf should be set up with the friction pad and tapered ends, just like the other leaves. Pete, your photo is the standard spring, right? 3 leaves plus the overload? And the Metric Tonne spring pack is 4 leaves plus overload? The springs described in this thread sound like standard springs that have had a couple of add-a-leaves added.

Heck, Joop -- that's all just surface rust. Looks like the body is still mostly sound and solid under the rust. Stop it before it gets any worse and you have a viable truck.

XJ/MJ drive trains are identical. You can swap an XJ Dana 44 rear axle to an MJ by welding on new spring perches. If you're good, you can grind the welds off the old ones and relocate them, but you can buy new heavy-duty perches from the Mopar Performance catalog for about $10 a pair, so why bother? The MJ doesn't use the shock mounts on the axle, so you have the option to leave them or grind them off. MJ driveshaft is longer than XJ. 4WD rear driveshaft is shorter than 2WD driveshaft. Either way you go, you're looking at some driveshaft work. Given the cost of gasoline, if you plan to keep both trucks you might want to seriously consider keeping the 2WD 4-banger in stock trim. I've heard reports that the 4-cylinder XJs give up to 28 MPG. I'm hoping my '88 will do that when I get a new clutch in it. In Louisiana you don't have much snow, so you also don't have an urgent need for 4WD if you have another truck for wheeling. Put a Trac-Lok in the rear and leave it 2WD.

Did you want that seat belt in THIS century?

That be a graphite wrench, used primarily for transferring smudges onto paper.

The 2.5L I-4 with the 5-speed manual tranny.

Considering that Chrysler doesn't currently build anything worthy of the Jeep name -- exactly how would we be "ahead of the game" paying big bucks for inferior machinery? The suggestion does not compute ...

It says it can be bolted up to older Cherokees "without modification." That should include Comanches, as well, since XJs and MJs are identical at the firewall and forward. However, I don't believe it's correct that no modifications are required. Others have done this swap, and I think you can find a write-up or two. I have not done it, but I think I recall something about the length of the pushrod the brake peddle being different.

Mine was the same. A namby-pamby "promise" to add me to their focus group list if they ever get around to it. Bleeyah!

It's a common misconception that all pipe wrenches are Stilson wrenches. Not so. A Stilson has a pivot, like this: An ordinary pipe wrench looks like this:

Score one for Pete. Correct. Pipe wrenches are not Stillson wrenches. I actually have a Stillson in one of my toolboxes, inherited from my father who probably inherited it from his father. I can't remember when it was last used, but it has to have been at least 30 or 40 years ago. It's kind of beat up, but I keep it just to have it around for the "cool old tool" factor. Back to the original question: The early XJs and MJs (up through 1990, at least) have the front bump stops threaded in. The rubber bumper fits in a metal cup. The metal cup has a threaded stud on the upper side. If you droop the suspension, you can fit a small pipe wrench or large pair of ChannelLocks between the coils and unscrew the stop.

Congratulations!

You're looking for 3/16" While you're there, you should also buy a double flaring tool and some extra end fittings, along with a few couplers for joining lengths of hard line together. Once brake lines start popping, they are all suspect. I can't tell you how many times I've replaced a section of line, only to have a nearby section pop a leak when I try to bleed after the repair. Just bite the bullet and replace everything, then you won't have to worry about it. The pre-fab lengths won't be perfect to get you from point 'A' to point 'B' and that's why you'll need the flaring tool. Oh, yeah, and a small tubing cutter, too. Don't cut brake line with a hacksaw -- the cut has to be pretty straight and clean or you can't get a good double flare on it.

like eagle said a rear sway bar will give a car more oversteer, which means the tail will come out easier but that isn't always the best thing to do. but if you tow a lot a rear bar could do you some good. I didn't say it would give more oversteer. I said it would give less understeer. Since most American vehicles understeer to the point of being (IMHO) dangerous, anything that results in less understeer is (again IMHO) a good thing.

You can cut the metal band clamps off the stock hoses and replace the hoses on the heater valve. I believe the valve is available from Auto Zone. A long time ago, I think someone posted a cross-reference to a GM valve that's the same thing.