Eagle

Crown used to offer them. Tried them? Call 860-274-8834. Click '3' for Parts, and try to talk to Todd, Fran, or Tony (in that order of preference). That's Bradshaw Jeep, my dealer. If Todd can't get it for you, it probably doesn't exist.

Front and rear axle? ==> SAE 80W90 or 75W90 GL5 gear oil (Newer spec is 75W140, that was not the spec in 1986 but better if you use it hard or tow) Manual Transmission? ==> 80W90 GL3 gear oil (Note: The GL3 is important if you have the AX-5 tranny, because grade GL5 has too much sulper and it eats the synchronizer rings) Transfer case? ==> ATF

Don't get fixated on the tank size and overlook the compressor. The compressor is what ultimately determines whether or not you can run your tools. A single cylinder compressor is NOT going to keep up with things like die grinders and sand blasters that basically run continuously. A larger tank will allow you longer "bursts" -- but a wimpy compressor takes even longer to refill a large tank than it does a small tank, which means you have more down time between slightly longer segments of actual work. Just like in car racing there's no substitute for horsepower, in compressors there's no substitute for CFM. Also, do not be fooled by horsepower "ratings." As I posted above, back when I bought my compressor they hadn't yet gotten into "rated" horsepower or "developed" horsepower -- they just listed horsepower. My 3-hp 2-cylinder compressor was THE largest available that would run on 115-volts. Period. Today you see "5-hp" and "6-hp" compressors for 115 volts, but if you read the fine print, they say something like "5 hp rated, 2 hp developed" or some nonsense like that. All it means is, 'We're not lying to you we're just not telling you the truth." Buy the compressor you need to do the work you'll be doing, and make it fit somewhere. If you don't, you'll forever be kicking yourself in the wazooskus. The only statistic that really counts is the SCFM the compressor puts out. If that's not higher than the requirement of the most air-hungry tool you plan to use, at the pressure the tool needs -- don't even bother.

Lots of people. Did you buy it at Auto Zone or Advance Auto? The prevailing wisdom is that aftermarket cluch masters ypically last about 6 months. This is one of those things where you should spend the dollars for a genuine Jeep part, or don't even bother doing the repair. I have no idea why an aftermarket won't last -- except that they are probably rebuilts rather than new, and honing them out probably leaves the bore too large to get a good seal on the wiper.

Gotcha. 10-4

You're buying a kit, with both the pressure plate and disc? The key part you have to match up is the tranny input shaft diameter and spline count, because that's what the disc rides on. I think they should be the same for the BA 10/5 and the AX-15, but I'm not certain. All of which says -- buy the kit based on the tranny, not the vehicle year. Is that bell housing set up for an external slave? If so, it's for a '94 or newer, and you scored big time. Much better setup than that goofy internal slave/release bearing thingie.

From I've been told, the factory clutches were made by Luks (Luchs?). The original on my '88 XJ lasted 204,000 miles and still had miles left when it was replaced in a pre-emptive strike when the slave cylinder went bad.

It's hard enough to follow some of the threads around here without going off on tangents that don't apply to the vehicle in question. Once the OP identified that he had an '88 4.0L, bringing up the 2.5L was just dragging the thread off-topic. I just try to keep things on topic. I guess it's a failing of advancing years. We olde phartes have to keep things simple so our diminished mental faculties can keep up.

They sold you the wrong sensor. Don't ty to use it -- return it.

If it was a 2.5 he would have had to. True, but ...

I used to carry a 31x10.50 and I would have said that was the largest that would fit. Wrong again.

THE biggest issue will be getting the oil pan off. You do NOT need to drop the tranny, so 2WD/4WD doesn't make any difference. In a nutshell, you drop the oil pan, remove the rear bearing cap, use a BRASS rod to punch out the upper half of the old seal, then lubricate (oil) the new seal and shove it up into place. Replace and torque the cap, with a dab of RTV on the two ends where the upper and lower halves meet, The '88 used a multi-piece oil pan gasket that's almost impossible to get installed and sealed up. Get the pan gasket for a '95. It's a much nicer, one-piece gasket and it does fit the older engines, regardless of what the kid at Pep Boys tries to tell you.

Our collective fingers are crossed ...

Careful. Adjacent 115-volt breakers in a panel are connected to alternate legs of the 230-volt service. When you pop in a double breaker for a 230-volt circuit, it's basically two 115-volt breakers with a pin connecting the two handles so if one leg blows, the whole breaker opens. Split breakers can only be used for 115-volt circuits, because both halves are connected to the same leg of the 230-volt service. If you wired a 230-volt device to the two sides of a single split breaker -- it wouldn't run.

Excellent! "I love it when a plan comes together" (Colonel Hannibal Smith, "The A-Team")

It certainly is something to worry about. If you look at the factory tow hook brackets (which are the same brackets used with the old factory "Hidden Winch" option), I believe they used all the original bumper mounting bolts plus added two or three more on each side. And the hidden winch was only a 5,000 or 6,000 pound winch. Drill out the bolts if you can, or grind off the old nuts and tack weld new ones in their place.

So if the prior owner was 60-70 years old, the vibration occurs at 65 mph? So a 40-50 year old owner would develop a vibration at 45 mph? Interesting. Anecdotal. My mother's new 1958 station wagon shimmied at 53 MPH in 1958. I was 14 then. My 1988 Cherokee shimmies at 54 MPH in 2008. I'm now 64 and the XJ has 280,000 miles on it. Somehow I fail to see any correlation, or reason for one, between the owner's or driver's age and the speed at which the shimmy occurs.

The periodic fluctuation is not indicative of either a bad sensor or a bad gauge. If it's not being caused by the aux fan cutting in, and it's not just at idle (indicating a bad fan clutch), it is most likely the gauge responding to opening and closing of the thermostat. Remember, a thermostat is intended to keep the temperature UP, not down. The thermostat stays closed until the coolant reaches the prescribed temperature, then it opens. There's a range of something like 15 degrees that the temperature then has to drop before the thermostat closes again. I think you are seeing the thermostat doing what it's supposed to be doing, except that it seems to be doing it a few degrees too hot. That's why I recommend replacing it. Get it from a Jeep dealer. It seems only the official Mopar thermostat has the air bleed vent in the top of the flange, and without that bleed hole you'll have a hard time purging air from the system.

That could do it. The TPS doesn't like to get wet. I'm not sure what inputs the AW4 uses when deciding when to shift, but knowing that the TPS for the AW4 has extra contacts that are not used with the 5-speeds, I'm pretty certain that TPS input is used somehow. Unfortunately, if you'll pardon an unfortunate pun, I suspect that you "hosed" your TPS.

Your inside breaker panel may or may not have space enough for one more 2-pole breaker (which you need for a 230-volt circuit). That blank knock-out at the bottom of the left tier may be able to accept a paired breaker, but you should remove the cover and check before proceeding. I like that junction box for the a/c circuit. As long as you can juggle use of the a/c and the compressor, I'd tap another set of conductors off that to an outlet in the garage for the compressor and call it good. You probably won't be unplugging the compressor a lot, so you could wire to it directly. I'd use an outlet anyway, and probably set it up with a twistlock plug and receptacle. It's a 50-amp breaker, so use heavy wire. 6-gauge will probably do the job. Just check what they used for the a/c circuit and match that. You won't want the compressor running all the time, so you should also consider wiring it through a heavy-duty disconnect switch.

Read my post above. The one you're looking at is only 2 HP, mine is 3 HP and can't keep up. Notice that they conveniently do NOT give you any specs on how many cfm this "gem" produces, and that's the critical spec that determines whether or not it'll keep up with your tools. Look for a spec on "Standard Cubic Feet per Minute" or "SCFM." If they don't tell you -- be VERY suspicious. Heck, it's a single stage. I believe that means, in compressor lingo, one cylinder. Ain't no way a 1-cylinder, 110-volt compressor is going to keep up with an air grinder. And I don't believe for one moment it's made in the USA. Pretty much all compressors today are made in China, and it doesn't matter whose name is on it. I may be wrong, but I don't think so (in this instance).

No aux fan? Try changing your thermostat. Does it tend to get hotter when you're stopped, and drop back to 210 when you start rolling? Or does it do this little needle dance while you're rolling down the highway at 65 MPH?

Happy Thanksgiving. MJ brethren. As we used to wish my 8th grade Social Studies teacher, "Don't eat too many turkeys."

Go for the 220-volt compressor. And don't get an "oilless." Get one with two cylinders, and a real oil sump. Remember that the ratings they put on compressors today are all lies. I'm still using a compressor I bought at least 30 years ago, probably more than 35 years. It's a 2-cylinder Sears Craftsman, 115-volt. The motor is a 3 HP motor, capacitor start. That was, at the time, THE largest compressor anywhere in the known universe that would run on 115 volts. Fast forward to today, and I routinely see 115-volt compressors advertised as 5 HP, even 6 HP. Yet they don't put out any more pressure or sustained volume than my old 3 HP Sears. The Sears is a horizontal. I think the tank is 12 gallons. Whatever it ism it is NOT enough to keep up with an air die grinder. It's great for a spray gun, okay for an air wrench or impact gun ... but woefully inadequate for anything requiring sustained air flow. Your idea about splitting off the a/c circuit is certainly viable. You could also tap off the dryer circuit, unless your family does a lot of laundry at the times you'd likely be working in the garage. You'll probably need a 30-amp circuit, which will require 8-gauge wire. If the circuit you're going to tap into has a 40-amp breaker, you'll need 6-gauge wire. Are there any unused knockouts in your circuit breaker panel? If so, you can probably add a dedicated circuit for the compressor in the garage and not worry about slaving off the dryer or the a/c. I just put a small sub-panel in my garage, because the main panel was filled up and I wanted a 230-volt outlet in the garage, as well as another 115-volt outlet circuit for the garage, and another one for the basement. I had a 50-amp breaker for the range, so I left that in the mainbox and wired it to be the main feed into the subpanel. Then I installed a 40-amp breaker for the range, a 30-amp breaker for the 230-volt circuit in the garage (that'll handle either a new compressor or a new welder, whichever arrives first), and a couple of 15-amp 115-volt circuits. And I still have spares to add a couple more circuits, like the attic vent fan I keep threatening to install.

You may need a viscous fan clutch, or you may need a radiator. What's happening is the primary fan can't pull enough air through the radiator to cool the engine. It gets to 230 and the auxiliary fan kicks in. That pulls more air, the temperature drops to where it should be ... and the cycle repeats.