Eagle

How old is that model? Some of the memory sales sites also tell you how much RAM your motherboard can recognize. My desktop at home is a Dell Dimension 4100. It has two RAM slots and came with only one 256 MB DIMM. I was going to kick it up to 2 Gigs, but the site I found for memory said the Dimension 4100 will only accept up to 512 MB. I asked around and several sources confirmed that, so I just bought a second 256 MB DIMM and maxed the box out at 512. Interestingly, my computer at work is also a Dell, several generations newer, that has 1 GB of RAM but runs significantly slower than my desktop at home. Too much network overhead. But 512 is plenty of RAM to run Xp if you don't try to do too much multi-tasking. It's enough for "work," but probably rather limiting if you're a gamer (I'm not). See if you can find out what the maximum configuration is for that motherboard.

Best fix for the early Cherokee ABS is to remove it and install a conventional brake system. The system was so bad that the Feds forced Chrysler to put some of the more expensive parts on an unlimited warranty. But ... that doesn't cover all of the parts, and with the future of Chrysler looking "iffy," what good is a warranty if there are no parts available to back it up? Plus, my understanding is that the failure mode for that system is not to default to standard, non-ABS brakes, but rather to default to NO brakes. Let me put it this way: I would not allow my wife to drive one of those things, and I talked my ex-girlfriend out of one and put her into an '88 XJ Laredo with standard brakes instead.

Same thing happened to my grandmother. I sincerely hope your mother is able to come back from it. One of the biggest problems is going to be that she will feel incredible frustration while she learns to do things that used to be automatic. God bless.

If you have a front axle disconnect -- make sure it's engaging fully.

What's the reason for the question? Basically, the answers given above are all correct: "Yes." But ... There's also an issue that occasionally comes up as to what "the same" ratio means. Read enough about our Jeeps, and you'll see references to the 4.0L 5-speeds beiing a 3.07 ratio -- unless it's 3.08. The 4.0L automatics have 3.55 gears ... unless they have 3.54 gears. And the 4-cyl 5-speeds have 4.10 gears ... unless they have 4.11 gears. If the point of your question is that you have noticed you have one axle that says 3.54 and one that says 3.55 ... that is considered the "same" ratio. The discrepancy arises when the front axle has a smaller ring gear than the rear axle, so the tooth count is different. The gear ratio is the tooth count on the ring gear divided by the tooth count on the pinion, so it usually works out that the ratio on the front axle is "different" from the rear in the second decimal place of the ratio. That small amount of discrepancy is acceptable, because in any situation where you could/should use 4WD, there's enough slippage and tire tread "squirm" to cancel out the difference. What you don't want to do is mix a 3.07 rear with a 3.55 front, for example.

That's correct. But if you run 31s with 3.73 gears, the MPH per 1000 RPM is exactly the same as an automatic with 3.55 gears and stock tires. Which really isn't quite enough gear for 31s, and definitely isn't enough gear for 33s.

I put 3.73 gears in my '88 MJ to run with 31s. The overall final drive ratio is exactly the same as running stock tires with 3.55 gears. It's a good choice for street use, but not enough gear for off-road use with 31s, and definitely won't be enough gear with 33s. If you're even thinking about 33s, go for 4.10s of even 4.56s.

Your mistake was in believing Haynes. Aftermarket t-stat gaskets typically do not have the sealant factory applied, so for those you would need RTV. The factory ones don't need it. Haynes doesn't tell you that. If you plan to work on your rig much at all, do yourself a HUGE favor -- lose the Haynes, and buy a factory service manual.

Following up on Jacobs' idea -- also check to be sure the fuel pump has a good ground.

The tires only contact the LCAs on full-lock turns. But 31x10.50s on stock Jeep rims will tuck up inside the fenders and flares, even with NO lift. Once you kick the tires outboard by 2 inches, you solve the LCA "problem" but you create a host of interference problems everywhere else. The tires will hit the flares whent he suspension compresses, and more than likely they'll also hit at the front and/or the back of the wheel well opening when you turn. Either accept the slight reduction in turning radius (I drove mine like that for several years), or do as Pete suggests and go to WJ lower control arms.

It's in the same place on the 2.5.L. One wire. And please don't type in all caps. It's more difficult to read, and it's considered rude.

Left (driver's side) rear corner of the head.

Left (driver's side) rear corner of the head.

I believe the gasket that comes from the factory already has sealant on it. If you used a Jeep part, you weren't supposed to put RTV on it. You should be able to reuse it, if you can take it apart without tearing the gasket. This time you WILL need RTV.

I believe the gasket that comes from the factory already has sealant on it. If you used a Jeep part, you weren't supposed to put RTV on it. You should be able to reuse it, if you can take it apart without tearing the gasket. This time you WILL need RTV.

You must have a defective thermostat. The function of the thermostat is to keep the temperature up. If the temperature isn't staying in the operating range, the thermostat isn't working.

You must have a defective thermostat. The function of the thermostat is to keep the temperature up. If the temperature isn't staying in the operating range, the thermostat isn't working.

You'll clear the lower control arms, but you'll have other clearance problems with the flares and sheet metal. You're starting with a rim that sits 1-1/2" farther outboard than the stock rims. Then you're adding an inch of width, which moves the centerline outboard an additional 1/2". With those tires and wheels your tires are going to be riding a full 2" father out than stock. The problems will be that much worse when you move up to 31s.

You'll clear the lower control arms, but you'll have other clearance problems with the flares and sheet metal. You're starting with a rim that sits 1-1/2" farther outboard than the stock rims. Then you're adding an inch of width, which moves the centerline outboard an additional 1/2". With those tires and wheels your tires are going to be riding a full 2" father out than stock. The problems will be that much worse when you move up to 31s.

No, you are confusing your terminology. "Turning over" is what you call "cranking" -- the starter motor is making the crankshaft rotate. "Turning over" does not mean "starting" or "running." If I understand correctly, you're saying it does start ... but won't run unless the key is in the START position. You are correct -- if it reliably fires while the starter is engaged, but then dies when you release the key, the problem is more likely the ballast resistor, or the fuel pump. You can test the ballast resistor just by jumping the two wires together. Remember what the ballast resistor does -- it reduces the voltage sent to the fuel pump. During a start, the resistor is bypassed and the fuel pump gats a full 12 volts. When you release the key, power to the fuel pump flows through the ballast resister, which drops it from 12 volts to 8 or 9 volts. What I'm thinking is this: Usually, if the ballast resistor is bad, once the engine starts there should be enough pressure in the rail for the engine to idle for at least 15 to 30 seconds. You're saying it dies instantly. That suggests that maybe your fuel pump isn't putting out enough pressure (or volume), and it needs the full 12 volts just to deliver enough fuel to idel. Once the key is released and the fuel pump is only seeing 8 or 9 volts, it doesn't pump enough fuel to keep things cookin'. Make any sense? Another test for the ballast resister: After the truck has sat overnight, turn the key to ON but not to START. Do it with your door open and your head outside. You should hear the fuel pump run for about 5 to 10 secinds while it pressurizes the fuel rail, then it should shut off when it reaches pressure. If you don't hear the fuel pump at all -- think ballast resistor. If the pump runs and runs and runs and runs ... think either fuel pump or regulator.

No, you are confusing your terminology. "Turning over" is what you call "cranking" -- the starter motor is making the crankshaft rotate. "Turning over" does not mean "starting" or "running." If I understand correctly, you're saying it does start ... but won't run unless the key is in the START position. You are correct -- if it reliably fires while the starter is engaged, but then dies when you release the key, the problem is more likely the ballast resistor, or the fuel pump. You can test the ballast resistor just by jumping the two wires together. Remember what the ballast resistor does -- it reduces the voltage sent to the fuel pump. During a start, the resistor is bypassed and the fuel pump gats a full 12 volts. When you release the key, power to the fuel pump flows through the ballast resister, which drops it from 12 volts to 8 or 9 volts. What I'm thinking is this: Usually, if the ballast resistor is bad, once the engine starts there should be enough pressure in the rail for the engine to idle for at least 15 to 30 seconds. You're saying it dies instantly. That suggests that maybe your fuel pump isn't putting out enough pressure (or volume), and it needs the full 12 volts just to deliver enough fuel to idel. Once the key is released and the fuel pump is only seeing 8 or 9 volts, it doesn't pump enough fuel to keep things cookin'. Make any sense? Another test for the ballast resister: After the truck has sat overnight, turn the key to ON but not to START. Do it with your door open and your head outside. You should hear the fuel pump run for about 5 to 10 secinds while it pressurizes the fuel rail, then it should shut off when it reaches pressure. If you don't hear the fuel pump at all -- think ballast resistor. If the pump runs and runs and runs and runs ... think either fuel pump or regulator.

Water in the gas?

Water in the gas?

This link may help you with the flaring. One caveat, though -- that flare tool shown in the article is not the best type. The parts chains sell cheap ones that look that that, and they don't work. The clamp doesn't hold the tube, and when you try to make the flare the tube just slides down in the clamp. http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html http://www.team-camaro.com/forums/showt ... p?t=145621 Do not waste money on a cheap double flare set. This is one place where it isn't just a matter of how many jobs the tool might survive. The cheap ones won't do ONE job, so buying them is a complete waste of money. We had a link on here awhile back on the good double flare tool set. Does anyone remember who made it? J-K Tools, maybe? :dunno: Don't remember. {EDIT}Found it. K-D Tools 2190 is the one that works. http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?Page ... odID=28191

This link may help you with the flaring. One caveat, though -- that flare tool shown in the article is not the best type. The parts chains sell cheap ones that look that that, and they don't work. The clamp doesn't hold the tube, and when you try to make the flare the tube just slides down in the clamp. http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html http://www.team-camaro.com/forums/showt ... p?t=145621 Do not waste money on a cheap double flare set. This is one place where it isn't just a matter of how many jobs the tool might survive. The cheap ones won't do ONE job, so buying them is a complete waste of money. We had a link on here awhile back on the good double flare tool set. Does anyone remember who made it? J-K Tools, maybe? :dunno: Don't remember. {EDIT}Found it. K-D Tools 2190 is the one that works. http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?Page ... odID=28191