Eagle

TJ Canyons are 15x8 but there's a very similar-appearing wheel from the ZJ that's 15x7. If you want 15x8, be sure that's what you're getting. IMHO an 8" rim is too wide for 235/15-15s.

I hope its a real long time the one i plan on transplanting already has 265k on it. :nuts: While it's out -- remove the oil pan, replace the main and rod bearings and the rear main seal, check the front seal and the vibration damper, then replace the pan using the newer one-piece pan gasket. You should then be good for another 200,000 miles if you stay on schedule withthe oil and filter changes.

If the 6-cyl is a 4;0L it will have 3.07 gears. No options. If the 6-cyl is a 2.8L V6, it could have 4.10s, 3.73s, or possibly 3.55s.

One injector in a 1990 2.5L EFI? Don't think so........... The 1990 4-cylinder was still a Renix-based throttle body system with one injector. The 2.5L was updated to the multi-port Chrysler system in 1991, the same year the 4.0L was changed over to the Chrysler system.

I have found that there is usually a tag (or the remainders of a tag) on the front differential. It may require decoding. I have never found a tag on a rear axle, other than one indicating the presence of a Trac-Lok.

I've been wrong before ...

An '85 4-cyl automatic might have 3.55, 3.73, or 3.31 gears. The front axle will bolt right into your MJ. On the rear axle, the spring pads have to be cut off and moved from the top of the axle tubes to the bottom.

There's your answer. You didn't replace the forward main seal. [Exit ... stage left]

You are starting with a 4-cylinder MJ and swapping in a 6-cylinder engine, so you will have to change the computer and engine control harness anyway. Going to an HO won't be THAT much more work ... but you will have to be aware of the differences from the Renix system to the Chrysler (HO) system. Keep in mind that, although any XJ front axle will bolt into any MJ, there were a couple of changes over the years affecting hubs, rotors, calipers and steering knuckles. Short version -- keep ALL of the above from the same year and you're okay. Once you swap an axle, be sure you're using calipers that belong with that axle.

Gosh, thanks for sharing. NOT!

Ummm ... no. Oil pressure should be 13 psi minimum at idle, and 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. That's per the factory service manual.

What's wrong with that? He DID get conked when the overhead compartments opened up -- it's entirely possible he got a brain contusion. Who was the famous female who hit her head skiing this winter and died a few hours later? Could be the same thing.

The 30" tires will be fine on it. They are hardly any bigger than 235/75s, just a fraction of an inch wider. I agree on ditching the lift, though. Should be easy to remove -- probably four coil spacers. My guess is it's a 93. The 93 didn't have flip-up glass in the tailgate, and this one doesn't seem to have hinges on the top of the rear glass.

This is the second or third time you've made reference to the 4.7L while indicating you can't or won't be buying a WJ. The 4.7L engine was first introduced in 1999 in the WJ. You cannot get a ZJ with a 4.7L -- it's a 4.0L I-6, or a 5.2L or 5.9L V8. That's it -- no other choices.

No, but my good friend and Jeep buddy had to sell his when they had their second child. They now have a third and have bought a mini-van.

If you had the pickup tube out and just stuck it back in, you don't have a seal.

There is no "may" about it. Adding another leaf WILL give you more capacity. A stock MJ spring has four leaves, so adding another leaf of the same thickness will add 20 percent to the capacity. The whole point of using an XJ leaf is to increase the capacity without adding lift.

The 5.9L ZJ has awesome performance, but it'll barely make it from one gas station to the next on a full tank. It is NOT recommended for a family cruiser. My '99 WJ was the 4.7L. Highway mileage was around 20 if I stayed within the speed limit, but it dropped like a rock if you push it faster than 65 MPH. Setting the cruise control for 60 rather than 65 was good for an extra 2 MG ... I guess aerodynamics mean something. But ... although the 4.7L ran well at speed, it is a passenger car engine, not a Jeep engine. It had NO low-end torque. Disregard the numbers. I had one of those light-duty Harbor Freight folding utility trailers that I used to tow behind it. With a gross trailer weight of 1,000 pounds or less, I felt like I was hauling a freight train. My then 12-year old 4.0L XJ 5-speed pulled it better. The 5.2L ZJ V8 IMHO is a much better engine than the 4.7L. Not as modern, but a better engine in the ways that matter to me. Whatever you do, DO NOT buy a 1999 Grand Cherokee. They had innumerable problems. Many were resolved by the 2000 model year but, if I were to ever buy another (highly unlikely) I would look for a 2001.

I don't see how the 4.3 could possibly work out better for cooling. It's a bigger engine ... both in displacement and physical size. It is, in fact, a small-block V8 with two cylinders lopped off. For the cost and work of the conversion you might as well do the V8. The 3.4L GM V6 is the same 60-gegree block as the 2.8L and is a MUCH easier and more reasonable conversion. [EDIT]Sorry -- disregard first sentence. Just re-read Dirty's post.

^^^^ :agree: Remember, the ZJ was originally intended to be the replacement for the XJ. If an XJ is too small for you, a ZJ is too small for you. Having (briefly) owned a WJ, I don't think it's significantly bigger inside, either. Yeah, some of the spec numbers look bigger ... but not by enough that it'll be great where an XJ isn't big enough. And, frankly, the WJ was a disaster. I owned it for less than a year, Chrysler bought it back to prevent my filing a lemon law case, and I replaced it with another XJ.

Does it pop the fuse instantly? If so, I would try removing (or just unplugging) the cluster and try again. If it still pops the fuse with the cluster unplugged, your problem isn't in the cluster, it's in the wiring. If it doesn't pop the fuse until you plug the cluster in -- the problem is in the cluster.

All my used vehicles come with the same standard warranty: Five minutes, five miles, or out the driveway -- whichever comes first. As to the douchebag -- it's obvious that he wasted your time a lot more than you wasted his time. I hate people like that, but they are everywhere. Does Craigslist have feedback or reputation points or anything like that? I've never even looked at it. If he trashed your rep, do you get to report him as a ****ty buyer?

You have to wheel VERY hard to bend those drop brackets. I had the Trailmaster drop kit on the '88 MJ and a friend has them on his XJ. Never had a hint of bending. In fact, my friend ripped one out of the XJ on the Mohawk Trail in Massachusetts. Found a local welder with a mobile rig who came to the campsite and patched everything up. The brackets themselves were undamaged. In my case, I removed them because I just didn't like the 4" lift. Everything about it was wrong for my use of the truck, and I'm much happier at stock height. As to the ZJ springs -- I doubt you'll get 2" out of them. The 2000 XJ Up Country front coils are the same part number as ZJ V8 front coils. The Up Country rides 1" higher than a stock XJ.

The one in the photo has wheels, does it not? Looks like it from here ...

I don't have any problem with a $500 fine for parking in a handicapped space when you're not handicapped. I think $1,000 is not unreasonable. Remember, we (most of us, anyway) are the class of citizens known as the "temporarily able-bodied." You never know when an accident might put you behind one of those handicapped decals. At that time, you would curse the healthy, ego-invested clowns who think they have a "right" to park in handicapped spaces.