Eagle

Going from 3.07 to 3.55 gears is not "taller." The lower (numerical) ratio is the "taller" gear. MORE gear is typically referred to as "deeper," not "taller."

Cherokee axle ratios follow the same pattern as Comanche axle ratios: 4.0L automatics = 3.55 4.0L 5-speed = 3.07 Early 2.5L 4-speed = 3.55 Early 2.5L 5-speed = 3.73 or 4.10 Early 2.5L automatic = God only knows Late 2.5L 5-speed and automatic = 4.10 Do not assume anything. If there's no tag on the diff, pull the cover and read the numbers on the edge of the ring gear. It's the ONLY way to be sure what you're getting.

:agree:

Another forum member has the exact same problem. Don't know if he found a cure. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17359

This is correct, it is a 4.8 amp breaker, and they are hard to find. If someone had a 6.5 in there--while possible, but not likely--it may have caused damage to the motor. Your problem sounds to me like it is either in the motor itself, or there are broken bushings in the linkage. Time to pull the cowl cover and have a look. Yea I pulled it off..and it looks like its binding..but I didnt have to much time to play with it since I needed to use the jeep to help my cousin move..now I have bigger problems though..after coming home yesterday some oil blew out somewhere and I cannot figure out where its leaking from.. :wall: Use Rain-X on the windshield. You'll hardly ever need the wipers. Clean the glass, apply the Rain-X per the instructions, and renew it once a week. How do you know it blew oil out? Do you see drips? If so, where? Could be blowing back into the air cleaner box and dripping out the holes on the bottom. Or it could be blowing past the rear main seal.

Yeah, you are missing a wiring diagram. The two wires do not complete a circuit. The lights are always "hot," and the door post switch completes the circuit to ground when the door opens. I don't remember why, but the driver's side door has a second wire for an additional circuit -- maybe a warning chime? Dunno -- try touching each wire to a bare spot on the door post -- like the edge of the hole for the switch. Most likely you just need a new switch.

Aging memory may be faulty, but I thought the FSM called for bench bleeding it before installation. Let's see -- so you installed it with the retaining band intact. You bled it. Have you since stepped on the pedal with the bleeder closed and busted the retainer band loose? If so, you may have a tough time getting it bled. You'll get there ... eventually ... but it may take awhile.

Fel-Pro makes both types. You have to specify the one for the late model engines.

To verify -- you bench bled first, and installed the new slave with the plastic tie still holding it in the compressed position?

Yeah -- replace the clutch master cylinder. Use only a genuine Jeep part. And use D.O.T. 5 silicone brake fluid in the clutch -- it isn't corrosive like regular brake/clutch fluids are.

There must be a mistake. My wife won that lottery -- three or four different times. You couldn't have won.

If you like passenger car engines that don't produce any torque at the (engine) speeds at which we normally operate, it's okay. Personally, I'd look for a low-mileage used 2-door Unlimited with the 4.0L engine. There's just too much about the JKs that's "unJeep" for me to ever consider buying one. Seeing the article in a recent 4WD magazine (don't recall which one) about the reinforcing needed on the front axles if you expect to wheel it was the final nail in the coffin as far as I'm concerned.

65 amps? I don't think so. Maybe 6-point-5 amps? I'm not at home so I can't check my FSM, but 65 amps would require about 8-gauge or 6-gauge wiring to the wiper motor and switch, and I KNOW it ain't that big.

That's not a rumor, it's a fact. My wife is from Chile. I met her on a wheeling trip in Chile with a fellow member of NAXJA who is Chilean and who invited me down to go wheeling with his club. They verify that Venezuelan XJs (the early ones) were built to export specs and have genuine Dana 44 axles. Unfortunately, for whatever reason, the XJs and MJs that go (went) to Chile were built in the U.S. factory and are identical to the ones we can but here. Except that the hidden winch option is (was) VERY popular down there.

You can get the one-piece gasket aftermarket, too. Chrysler started using it in 1994 or 1995, so regardless of what year your MJ or engine is, just order a pan gasket for a 95 XJ 4.0L.

TJ Canyons are 15x8 but there's a very similar-appearing wheel from the ZJ that's 15x7. If you want 15x8, be sure that's what you're getting. IMHO an 8" rim is too wide for 235/15-15s.

I hope its a real long time the one i plan on transplanting already has 265k on it. :nuts: While it's out -- remove the oil pan, replace the main and rod bearings and the rear main seal, check the front seal and the vibration damper, then replace the pan using the newer one-piece pan gasket. You should then be good for another 200,000 miles if you stay on schedule withthe oil and filter changes.

If the 6-cyl is a 4;0L it will have 3.07 gears. No options. If the 6-cyl is a 2.8L V6, it could have 4.10s, 3.73s, or possibly 3.55s.

One injector in a 1990 2.5L EFI? Don't think so........... The 1990 4-cylinder was still a Renix-based throttle body system with one injector. The 2.5L was updated to the multi-port Chrysler system in 1991, the same year the 4.0L was changed over to the Chrysler system.

I have found that there is usually a tag (or the remainders of a tag) on the front differential. It may require decoding. I have never found a tag on a rear axle, other than one indicating the presence of a Trac-Lok.

I've been wrong before ...

An '85 4-cyl automatic might have 3.55, 3.73, or 3.31 gears. The front axle will bolt right into your MJ. On the rear axle, the spring pads have to be cut off and moved from the top of the axle tubes to the bottom.

There's your answer. You didn't replace the forward main seal. [Exit ... stage left]

You are starting with a 4-cylinder MJ and swapping in a 6-cylinder engine, so you will have to change the computer and engine control harness anyway. Going to an HO won't be THAT much more work ... but you will have to be aware of the differences from the Renix system to the Chrysler (HO) system. Keep in mind that, although any XJ front axle will bolt into any MJ, there were a couple of changes over the years affecting hubs, rotors, calipers and steering knuckles. Short version -- keep ALL of the above from the same year and you're okay. Once you swap an axle, be sure you're using calipers that belong with that axle.

Gosh, thanks for sharing. NOT!