Eagle

It's a torque damper, but I doubt that's the "official" parts catalog name for it. If it's available at all, it's probably a dealer only part. The 6-cylinder engines produce gobs more torque, and they don;t have that gizmo ... which leaves me wondering just how necessary it really is. Does anybody run a 2.5L without that thing?

"Too much" is sort of imprecise. How much end play is there?

Back when I owned a full-size Cherokee, I replaced the front fenders and had patch panels cut into the rear quarters. The work was done by an out-of-work auto body man in a friend's garage. Rather than shoot individual parts and have a vehicle that looked like a patchwork quilt, he shot the whole lower body, from the bottom of the glass down. Didn't shoot any door posts, or the roof. The job used almost an entire gallon of urethane. When he was finished, there was enough paint left to fill a small jar to set aside for touching up nicks. With that as a frame of reference, I'd say to do a Comanche you will need at least 1-1/2 to 2 gallons. The one-part, ready to spray stuff sounds like the cheap enamel that Maaco uses. It'll look good for about a year, then it'll go flat on you and you'll wish you had never heard of it. Go with a two-part urethane paint. It has a decent gloss, and it'll hold the gloss forever.

Another vote for the Monroe SensaTracs. I like them very much. On one MJ I was in urgent need of rear shocks and very short on cash that day, so I just went to Pep Boys and bought the least expensive Gabriel shocks they had. I believe at the time they cost me the princely sum of $9 each. Surprisingly, they ride well and after two-plus years they have not blown up or lost their ability to do what shock absorbers are supposed to do.

An 87 XJ or MJ would have a Peugeot BA 10/5 transmission. I'm not certain what tranny the YJ used in that year. For the XJ and MJ, the change from the BA 10/5 to the AX-15 was made in the middle of the 1989 production year.

I have used that type of fastener several times, but I never used a rivet tool to set them. Should make life a lot easier than doing it the old-fashioned way. Just make certain that the holes you drill aren't oversized (need a tight fit on the barrel of the insert), and be sure you crimp securely or the whole thing will spin when you try to remove a screw down the road. The inserts are typically aluminum -- use anti-sieze on the screw threads.

84 and 85 were carbureted, but there were no MJs in those years. 86 thru 90 were the Renix-based throttle body injection. 91 and newer were the Chrysler multi-port injection. It would really surprise me if the Chrysler engine have the same ports and manifoldsa as the Renix. The MPI engines produce a LOT more horsepower and torque than the TBI engines, and I can't make myself believe that some of the gains weren't from a head/manifold redesign. They did the development work for the 4.0L ... the two engines are essentially the same except for number of pistons, so why would they not port the improvments over to the 2.5L?

:agree:

Sorry -- I was tired and I missed the 4-cylinder part. So you lads are saying that the 1991 and newer 4-cylinder engines did NOT have redesigned ports and manifolds like the 4.lL did? Port height and shape is the same for the Renix 4-cyl and Chrysler 4-cyl engines?

No, the ports on the HO heads are higher up and shaped differently than those on the Renix 4.0L. It is possible to force-fit an HO head and still use the Renix manifolds, but it's not a bolt-on replacement. To keep it simple, the Renix years were 1987 through 1990. A head in that range should bolt right up.

Going from 3.07 to 3.55 gears is not "taller." The lower (numerical) ratio is the "taller" gear. MORE gear is typically referred to as "deeper," not "taller."

Cherokee axle ratios follow the same pattern as Comanche axle ratios: 4.0L automatics = 3.55 4.0L 5-speed = 3.07 Early 2.5L 4-speed = 3.55 Early 2.5L 5-speed = 3.73 or 4.10 Early 2.5L automatic = God only knows Late 2.5L 5-speed and automatic = 4.10 Do not assume anything. If there's no tag on the diff, pull the cover and read the numbers on the edge of the ring gear. It's the ONLY way to be sure what you're getting.

:agree:

Another forum member has the exact same problem. Don't know if he found a cure. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17359

This is correct, it is a 4.8 amp breaker, and they are hard to find. If someone had a 6.5 in there--while possible, but not likely--it may have caused damage to the motor. Your problem sounds to me like it is either in the motor itself, or there are broken bushings in the linkage. Time to pull the cowl cover and have a look. Yea I pulled it off..and it looks like its binding..but I didnt have to much time to play with it since I needed to use the jeep to help my cousin move..now I have bigger problems though..after coming home yesterday some oil blew out somewhere and I cannot figure out where its leaking from.. :wall: Use Rain-X on the windshield. You'll hardly ever need the wipers. Clean the glass, apply the Rain-X per the instructions, and renew it once a week. How do you know it blew oil out? Do you see drips? If so, where? Could be blowing back into the air cleaner box and dripping out the holes on the bottom. Or it could be blowing past the rear main seal.

Yeah, you are missing a wiring diagram. The two wires do not complete a circuit. The lights are always "hot," and the door post switch completes the circuit to ground when the door opens. I don't remember why, but the driver's side door has a second wire for an additional circuit -- maybe a warning chime? Dunno -- try touching each wire to a bare spot on the door post -- like the edge of the hole for the switch. Most likely you just need a new switch.

Aging memory may be faulty, but I thought the FSM called for bench bleeding it before installation. Let's see -- so you installed it with the retaining band intact. You bled it. Have you since stepped on the pedal with the bleeder closed and busted the retainer band loose? If so, you may have a tough time getting it bled. You'll get there ... eventually ... but it may take awhile.

Fel-Pro makes both types. You have to specify the one for the late model engines.

To verify -- you bench bled first, and installed the new slave with the plastic tie still holding it in the compressed position?

Yeah -- replace the clutch master cylinder. Use only a genuine Jeep part. And use D.O.T. 5 silicone brake fluid in the clutch -- it isn't corrosive like regular brake/clutch fluids are.

There must be a mistake. My wife won that lottery -- three or four different times. You couldn't have won.

If you like passenger car engines that don't produce any torque at the (engine) speeds at which we normally operate, it's okay. Personally, I'd look for a low-mileage used 2-door Unlimited with the 4.0L engine. There's just too much about the JKs that's "unJeep" for me to ever consider buying one. Seeing the article in a recent 4WD magazine (don't recall which one) about the reinforcing needed on the front axles if you expect to wheel it was the final nail in the coffin as far as I'm concerned.

65 amps? I don't think so. Maybe 6-point-5 amps? I'm not at home so I can't check my FSM, but 65 amps would require about 8-gauge or 6-gauge wiring to the wiper motor and switch, and I KNOW it ain't that big.

That's not a rumor, it's a fact. My wife is from Chile. I met her on a wheeling trip in Chile with a fellow member of NAXJA who is Chilean and who invited me down to go wheeling with his club. They verify that Venezuelan XJs (the early ones) were built to export specs and have genuine Dana 44 axles. Unfortunately, for whatever reason, the XJs and MJs that go (went) to Chile were built in the U.S. factory and are identical to the ones we can but here. Except that the hidden winch option is (was) VERY popular down there.

You can get the one-piece gasket aftermarket, too. Chrysler started using it in 1994 or 1995, so regardless of what year your MJ or engine is, just order a pan gasket for a 95 XJ 4.0L.