Eagle

What doesn't fit what? The pressure plate won't bolt up to the flywheel? The disc won't slide onto the transmission input shaft? And where did you buy the clutch, and what brand is it?

They brought back the pressure bottle when they came out with the Libertine. It's really a good system -- if the "radiator" cap isn't made of plastic.

Back when the kit came out, it was widely understood (which is why I wrote) that it WAS the engine room harness and parts from a 1994 YJ. As long as Jeep was building a version of the HO motor and puting it in something like a Wrangler, the parts would have kept rolling off the assembly line (or rolling in the door from subcontractors, more likely). Now that Jeep has retired the 4.0L engine, there's no flow of the parts, so they must have to be specially made up in smaller quantities.

I very nearly went through the same thing a couple/three years ago. Crush injury just above the ankle, swelling, intense pain, obvious signs of sepsis beginning to run up the leg. Idiot doctor at the VA just kept pushing antibiotics at me, and it kept getting worse. When I went back for the third time in three days to point out (again) that it seemed to be getting worse instead of better, she FINALLY let a surgeon take a look at it. His comment was "Why didn't they send you to me ten days ago?" He carved open my leg on the spot, cleaned it out, then booked me into the hospital so I could be kept on a combination of oral AND intravenous antibiotics until they were certain they had it under control. The surgeon told me I was lucky not to have lost the foot. My sympathies, but hang in there. Remember, automatics are better for rock crawling anyway.

No, that is not correct. There is also a thermal switch in the driver's side radiator tank that turns on the fan if the temperature gets above a certain level. I don't recall what the magic number is ... I think it's either 225 or 240 degrees. Might be ON at 240 and OFF at 225.

I don't mean to hijack this thread but Pete's comment above brought up a question I pondered awhile back. It contradicts my conclusion. Gearing doesnt increase power (unless you stay in first gear). Specifically, see Eagle's comments in my thread below. My conclusion was the drivetrain would generate the same torque if I wound the engine a little higher. I am running 3:07 and was considering switching to 3:73 but I concluded I would have the same result (or close depending on speed of course) if I kept it in 4th gear rather than 5th. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18501&hilit=gearing Anyone agree or disagree? More gear at the axle can't increase the amount of torque or horsepower produced by the engine at any particular RPM, but the torque and horsepower at the rear wheels are a product of the engine power multiplied by the total final drive ratio. This does not contradict the conclusions from your other thread. More gear allows whatever power/torque the engine is producing to apply more leverage to the rear wheels. Conversely, because of the increased rolling radius, larger tires work the opposite. 31x10.50-15s, as an example, run just about 10 percent fewer revolutions-per-mile than stock 225/75-15s. That's the equivalent of putting in 10 percent LESS gear. In other words, if you have a 5-speed with 3.08 gears, on 31s you have the equivalent of 2.77 gears. Worse, the bigger tires are heavier, so you have less gear trying to overcome MORE inertia. Yes, you might have the same result leaving it in fourth gear ... if you only drive in fourth gear. But you would not see any improvement in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. Regearing the axle gives you more power multiplication in ALL gears.

Sorry to disappoint you, but RENIX is an acronym for RENault-BendIX and it refers to the ignition/injection system, not the cooling system. Your 4-banger is also a RENIX, it just happens to be a throttle body injection rather than multi-port. Your truck uses the exact same CPS and coil/ignition module as the 87-90 4.0L.

10-4 One can never have too many toggle switches.

JC Whitney sells (or used to sell) replacement rocker panels for the 4-door XJ. Those would also work for the MJ and I assume (always dangerous, I know) that they should be available from any of the mass body panel vendors like Sherman, Veng, etc. I don't know of anyone offering cab corners.

Not me, mon. AFAIK that's entirely correct. Now watch somebody prove us both wrong ...

Ya know ... Just thinkin' out loud here. I have NOT done this, but with 287,000 miles on the '88 XJ I'm ... exploring options. Jeep sells (or used to sell) an MPFI conversion kit for the old, carbureted 4.2L engine in the early YJ Wranglers. Essentially, the conversion was the intake manifold, throttle body, injection, and engine room wiring harness from a 1994 Wrangler 4.0L with the HO MPFI system. It was NOT necessary to rewire the entire vehicle to install this kit. If you can convert a carbureted Wrangler to the HO MPFI without rewiring the entire vehicle, I have trouble understanding why there is any need to rewire the entire chassis when the engine harness appears to be functional as a stand-alone conversion.

There were two types of speedo cable. The first style, used from 84 (for the XJ) and 86 (for the MJ) either only through 1986 or possibly part way through 187 used a metal retaining clip and a screw to attach the cable to the speedo head. From 1988 (or mid-1987) through 1990, the retainer was a white nylon clip. To remove that, squeeze the outer retainer ring and it should come right off. It takes a bit of experimenting to figure out which orientation to squeeze. When you get it, it's easy. Don't force it.

umm...no I don't have an open system (as far as I know)... I still have the overflow tank, I don't have a rad cap, etc... I can't say that my rad wasn't replaced by the previous owner at some point...above the lower rad hose (on the driver side), there isn't any other port or anything Wade, if you do NOT have an open system, then you do NOT have an "overflow" tank. If you are referring to the plastic bottle on the passenger side of the firewall, that's not an overflow tank, it's a surge tank and it is under full system pressure. The cap to that tank is your "radiator" cap. The temperature switch that controls the aux fan should be in the driver's side radiator tank, just above the lower radiator hose. The sender has a pigtail that would plug into that connector in your photo. There should also be a standard relay on the driver's side inner fender that's part of the system. Since your radiator doesn't appear to have the sender, the simple solution for you would be to just find a matching connector and wire it to a toggle switch on your dashboard. You don't need to tap power, that's already there. Just run both wires to the switch to open or close the circuit.

"Boxes"? WHAT boxes? If you mean the taillights, no they aen't anywhere near the same size or shape. I think a REALLY good body man could make '97 XJ taillights fit in an MJ box, but it would be work.

I'd say you are leaping unerringly to a couple of illogical conclusions. As CWLONGSHOT noted, 20 psi at idle is withing spec. However, the pressure should be around 40 or better (warm) at 2000 RPM. The factory spec is 13 psi (minimum) at idle, and 37-to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. So your pump is producing pressure, as evidenced by the idle pressure, but it can't boost the pressure above 20 psi. That doesn't sound like a clogged screen to me. Even if it did -- you could just drop the pan and clean the screen, it doesn't mean you need a new pump, and it CERTAINLY doesn't mean you need a new high volume pump. Your problem is pressure, not volume. Then you ask about the rear main seal. The RMS has nothing to do with oil pressure. It just prevents the oil from leaking out of the engine. By all means, if you have the oil pan off that's the time to replace the RMS. But that's not going to cure your oil pressure problem. IMHO, you need to replace the bearings, not the oil pump. It can be done with the engine in the truck.

That's insane. I knew tornadoes were powerful, but I had no idea a twister could pick up a freakin' TRAIN.

Ditto.

A SHORT AAL does make the ride stiff. That's one of the reasons to go with a long AAL. The XJ that I did using cut-off XJ main leaves rode VERY nicely after the "lift" (if you call 3/4" net increase a "lift"). I'm in Connecticut and the ex-GF I built it for is in Montana, so I drove it 2400 miles (or so) to deliver it. I think I was on the road three days, and there was definitely no harshness to the ride. By contrast, the short AAL that was under my '88 MJ when I bought it was pure torture. Much of the key is keeping the arch basically the same. When you stuff in a short leaf and use that to generate 3" or 4" of lift, that one leaf has to do a LOT of work, so it has to be thick, heavy, and stiff.

Spin the ring gear. The tooth count is stamped into the edge. It won't be a ratio, it will be two numbers -- the number of teeth on the ring gear, and the number of teeth on the pinion. Divide the big number by the small number and there's your ratio.

Nope. YJs had high pinion D30s ... but they are set up for leaf springs, so they aren't exactly bolt-ins. TJs and ZJs are all low pinion.

I dunno what's "best." I know using the stock plates and flipping them side-for-side will preserve the original shock geometry and allow you to run factory-length shocks. That would be my choice, but I'm not a hard-core wheeler.

That's not comparing apples to apples. The 4.2L never had multi-port injection, and it used an older ignition system with a rather lousy carburetor. Aside from that, the raw numbers are deceptive. It's a function of what you're looking for. The 258 didn't wind up real quick, like a short-stroke V8 engine does, but it had gobs of torque off the line and it just kept pulling all the way through the RPM range. Yes, we had a few. My brother raced a 258 Gremlin, and we had a Hornet AMX in the family for a number of years.

Hunting arrow Get your mind out of the gutter ...

I would. Otherwise there are too many variables, and trying to do it on your own could EASILY run upwards of $2,500 by the time you get done. $2,750 isn't that far off the price of a Jasper rebuild, for heaven's sake.

You sure you didn't have them look up Comanche? 1992 was the last year the Comanche was produced, but the Cherokee continued through 2001. Obviously, NAPA is incorrect. The hubs AND the rotors changed between 1989 and 1990. And since the steering knuckle and calipers also changed at that point, and the caliper mounts to the knuckle, it is critical to keep ALL the parts within the same "generation." You cannot mix and match, or you get an interference fit (like you did), or no brakes.