Eagle

Special order? The brakes aren't the same 10" x 2-1/2" that were used with the Dana 44s? AMC was using those brakes all the way back into the 60s, why would they have made the MJ Model 20 different?

To add a half inch with a spring over, I would just stick a 1/2" steel spacer under each leaf. You don't need new shackles or AALs. Keep it simple.

OEM Chrysler, or OEM Jeep? Jeep used the same wheels on the 2WD and 4WD models. Anything that fits one should fit the other. Minivan wheels, though, aren't the same.

He just spent beaucoup bucks replacing the clutch, now you want him to just toss all that? And if the master cylinder is bad, it doesn't matter if he has an internal or external slave, it won't work with either one.

I think you think wrong. Military tires are TERRIBLE for general purpose use, especially on pavement. They may look cool, but as far as serving your purpose(s) ... I don't think so.

Bleed it again. The clutch hydraulics are VERY difficult to bleed.

31x10.50s are no problem on OEM Jeep 15x7 rims, but a 6" rim is too narrow. Yes, you can probably get away with it, but the rim will be pinching the sidewalls in excessively, pulling the shoulders of the tread away from road contact. The only way you'll be able to run with decent tread contact across the width of the tread will be to run at a pressure too low to be safe. As an example, I just looked up the Cooper Discoverer H/T in 31x10.50. The recommended rim width is 7" to 9" and they took their measured specifications using an 8-1/2" rim.

When shifting into 4-HI on the fly, try to have the throttle at "neutral" when shifting. In other words, don't be accelerating and don't be using the engine for strong compression braking.

Just what CWLongshot said. WD-40 is the wrong product. I have had the exact same problem. There is no "linkage" on the throttle body, but there is a bellcrank down below the manifold that can get rusty. That's where mine was getting stuck, and it took a bunch of PB Blaster and a lot of moving it manually through the full range of motion before it freed up.

The '06 has the V6 engine, doesn't it? If I were buying a TJ as a daily driver, I'd be looking for one of the original, 2-door Unlimiteds with the 4.0L engine. For a DD it doesn't need to be a Rubicon, because a DD doesn't need a 4:1 low-range and all the Unlimiteds have the Dana 44 rear axle.

I hope you didn't get Cherokee springs. They aren't anywhere near the same length as Comanche leaf springs. And the Cherokee starts off as spring-over-axle and the Comanche is spring-under-axle, so there's not a lot of correlation regarding the rear springs anyway.

Blasting and painting would not be "restoring" them. The outer rim and the faces of the spokes should be polished bright. The sides of the spokes and the rough areas between the spokes should be painted a matte, medium gray. I plan to try doing one when the weather warms up a bit, using Aircraft Stripper from Auto Zone to remove the existing clear coat. This will also remove the gray between the spokes, so I'll have to repaint that, then polish the flats, then clearcoat the whole enchilada.

Yeah, with a busted frame. You're a helluva guy, FJ93, and don't ever let anyone tell you different. :chillin: Standard warranty (5 miles, 5 minutes, or out the driveway -- whichever comes first)?

An internal (or "infernal") combustion engine requires three things to operate: air, fuel, and spark. If you didn't take off the head or change out the timing chain, it is probably safe to assume that you're still getting air, so that means you're lacking either fuel or spark. Have you checked to see which? You dropped the tank to build a flatbad. Where did you ground the fuel pump? Have you confirmed that the fuel pump is running?

Now aren't you glad you didn't swap out that engine? Of course, if the replacement engine was a used long block with injectors, it probably would have "fixed" the problem. But how much less work is it to just swap injectors?

Considering the purpose, I have to wonder if it's worth spending money to replace. It isn't a "structural" part, in any way. The only purpose is to dampen vibration, and the only time that would even be a factor is when the engine is idling in neutral. Under load when driving, any vibration will be transmitted into the drive train. In fact, I have been considering removing it from one of my 4-cylinder trucks so that I can configure the front of the engine like a 6-cylinder and not have the a/c compressor obstruct the #1 spark plug.

More changing things that didn't need to be changed. What does a "distributor" do? It "distributes" the spark among the cylinders. If the distributor is sending spark to 5 out of 6, why would you think it isn't sending spark to #6 out of 6? Easy to check. Remove the spark plug wire from the #6 turret of the distributor, put in a new, known-good wire, crank the engine and see if the new wire sparks to the block. If it sparks to the block, then see if it'll make the plug spark. You may have a bad wire, or a bad plug. There really isn't anything else it can possibly be.

No, the HO started in 1991. The Chrysler steering column (with airbag) started in 1995.

It could be CPS. It could also be coil, or ignition module, overheating. Next time it happens, see if you have spark. If it's a throttle body (did you mention the year?), you should be able to see if it's squirting gas.

That "thing" is a triumph of engineering, proving conclusively that some people have more time and money than common sense. My biggest problem with it is the grille suggests that it was once a flat-fender Jeep..

Google is your friend. A search for "oxygen sensor simulator" yielded the following (plus a lot more): http://www.o2sensorsimulator.com/ http://www.bobblick.com/techref/project ... ensor.html http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oxygen ... simulator/

I've seen those things for sale, but I can't remember where. It's been years since I saw them.

Consider a TrueTrac for the rear. It's a gear-driven limited slip. Costs just a bit more than a Trac-Lok, but doesn't require any special friction modifier additive and works much better.

The newer ones don't have an EGR valve, so that's a problem. Also, the HO heads have the ports higher than the Renix, and the ports are shaped differently. People have been able to use the later manifold, but it's a kludge at best.

Why should he have to let it be "totalled" and then have to buy it back and deal with a reinspection and a salvage title when the accident wasn't his fault? The other insurance company has no right to take his truck away from him. If the max they can pay is blue book, let 'em pay blue book and he keeps the truck. Remember, it was a rear ender. I got rear ended some years ago when plowing in my old full-size Cherokee. The other insurance company initially said they would pay to repair it. Then, when the body shop found that some additional parts were needed because Jeep had changed the design of the fuel filler when the Cherokee became the Grand Wagoneer, they balked. I reminded them that I had not asked to have my vehicle hit by their insured; that I was struck in the rear; and that I had not as yet been examined by a doctor for possible neck injuries. They paid rather promptly.