Eagle

So the poll is defective because it failed to account for those who drink responsibly. After seeing a great number of polls on various Internet forums, I have come to realize that there should be a high school class (or perhaps an entire subject, for at least one full semester) on how to structure a poll. I don't think I have seen ANY that it would be possible for me to answer honestly, because they ALL seem to omit at least one reasonably probable choice (and, more often, they omit two or three, at least). FAIL!

And you're telling me that I need to move? Now that's REALLY funny ...

The flexplate issue is a valid issue, but it's a cheap fix -- especially if you'll have the engine and tranny out for a swap anyway. The center portion of the flexplate cracks, leaving the outer portion no longer connected to the engine. Usually makes a bad rapping noise that sounds a lot like a bad rod bearing. The solution is simply to replace the flexplate -- they're not that expensive. The engine will run so you can check it out -- you just can't drive it. If he says the engine won't run, then either there's a bigger problem, or he drove it like that until the flex plate completely sheared off. Since the CPS gets its cues from the teeth on the rim of the flex plate, if the flex plate isn't still connected well enough to go around with the crankshaft there's no signal.

I know exactly how Low-Jack works. If the average time where you live is one hour or less, good for you. It's FAR longer than that around here. Only some patrol vehicles are equipped with Low-Jack receivers, and in this part of the world they are very rare. My former employer had Low-Jack in his wife's car. It was not found in less than an hour. In fact, it was not found in less than a day. Besides, a joy rider can make a pretty terrible mess out of a nice 4x4 Comanche in a lot less than an hour. I prefer to focus on ways to slow them down from stealing it. Pretty much by definition, most thefts of MJs and similar, older vehicles will be by joy riders, not by professional chop shops. They are crimes of opportunity, not professionals cruising neighborhoods with tow trucks. Anything that will cause them to fail at their first attempt (breaking the steering column and hot wiring the ignition) will generally result in their going away to look for another truck to steal. And lay off the personal attacks, Mate. I am not a third grade English teacher and I didn't in any way treat your post the way a third grade English teacher might.

You can use an ECU from a 4.0L manual in a 4.0L with an automatic tranny, and vise versa. Perhaps not optimum, but it'll run and you'll probably not be able to see/feel the difference from the driver's seat.

Just wanted to wish all you gearheads a happy new year. My 2010 be better in all respects and all aspects than 2009.

It would seem that it has to be related to the switch. The instrument lights and the taillights are fused, but the headlights don't run through the fuse panel, they are fused by the built-in circuit breaker in the headlight switch. So if you lost all of them at once, a bad fuse or even a bad fuse panel seems unlikely.

Cool. So we can expect your typing to improve now that you won't have to use the gaming keyboard, right? Wait, you're from Canada, let me rephrase that: So we can expect your typing to improve now that you won't have to use the gaming keyboard, eh? Just joshing, Mate. Let us know how you like it, because I may have to pick up one of those little darlin's. :cheers:

Lo-Jack doesn't stop a theft, it just transmits the vehicle's location so that MAYBE the police can find it after it has been stolen. Problem is, a 20-year old MJ isn't likely going t be stolen by a chop shop that's going to send the parts to South America, it's going to be stolen by some punk who wants to go joy riding in a Jeep. The cops will find it ... most likely in a ditch or wrapped around a tree. I would prefer to make it so they can't steal it in the first place.

Yeah, isn't that the same thing as Star Office? The open source (public domain) office suite that reads and writes to Microsoft Office file formats. Yeah, I'm aware of it -- the question was whether or not an Acer Aspire has the horsepower to run it. I guess if it ships with a trial version of MS Office, it's good enough to run Word and Excel, or the open source equivalents.

The first was definitely poor extraction technique. It was also a hot dog who got into something his vehicle couldn't handle. What I can't figure out is, with all the people standing around watching, why nobody had a winch. Unfortunately, there are no views showing what was straight ahead or straight behind. Pretty obviously, they should have been doing a straight pull rather than a severe side-angle pull. But ... too late now.

Bummer. Not an ideal way to spend New Year's eve. The good news is that you're still among the living; it sounds like the accident could have turned out a lot worse.

ALL the dash lights quit? Have you fiddled with the dimmer function on the headlight switch to see if you're just on a dead spot?

I like the bank of toggle switches idea. Put in four or five of them and wire them in series so that the switches have to be set to OFF or ON in a specific pattern or it's an open circuit. For this to work, they have to be double-throw switches, so that they can make a circuit whether the lever is up or down. Assuming your MJ is like most and has a blank switch panel to the right of the steering wheel, you could put in an XJ panel there and put two switches in that. Unless they are both ON, no run. Mount one of them upside down to make it more confusing. Plus they'll have factory labels for stuff so they won't look like a security system.

Wait -- aren't you the same Canadian who was advocating warning shots a few days ago? :cheers:

The link to this clip was sent to me by a friend in Greece. Looks to me like they managed to rip the front axle completely out, and the right front wheel seems to have ended up basically under the driver's seat. The obvious lesson here is, if you're going to build it for "real" off-road use, be sure you do it right because Mickey Mouse builds won't get you home.

Clearly we're being out-posted :D but I'd be curious as to how the breakdown of members goes. For example, the most prodigious 1.3% of posters here account for fully half the posts. I wonder if that scales up. :dunno: Is this just a case of our small group, or is this more like the bell curve, which can be applied to all sorts of things in the world. :smart: That's normal. On another site where I serve as a moderator (not Jeep-related), I occasionally notice someone who may have been a member for four or five YEARS and has fewer than 10 posts to his account. By the way, ladies and germs, as long as we are discussing milestones and the origins of the Comanche Club site, I think it's appropriate to remind y'all (or inform you, if you didn't know) that this forum is here for us ENTIRELY thanks to Pete M, who put it up on his own hook and who funds the server space/time out of the goodness of his heart. If it weren't for Pete, we would not have this site. Thank you, Pete.

That was a rather significant omission. Now that we have that squared away - CONGRATULATIONS!

Does it come with any version of Office on it -- or can it run Office (or Star Office) if you install it? I'm very tempted to pick up an Aspire, but I would need to be able to run at least Word and Excel.

No, the hole should be there, but you'll probably need to put a thread-sert in it for the bolt.

Those prices sound high for used axles. I've bought Dana 44s out of XJs for $75 each at a u-pull-it, and they typically go for $200 to $250 at a yard that pulls 'em for you. Can you actually regear an axle for $200, or is that the cost of the parts only? Unless you have the tools and the experience to set up new gears yourself, trying to save a few $$$ by not having it done professionally can be a very expensive mistake. Have you done it? Do you have the tools?

Based on your posts and questions so far, it seems that you have been told a lot about XJs and MJs, and most of it is totally untrue. The D35 is not "finicky." Changing the axle lube absolutely won't hurt it, and might help it. It's not a strong axle, but it's plenty strong enough for a stock 2.5L engine in a stock truck. The weakest aspect is the axle tubes, where they go into the center section housing. When run with large tires in extreme off-road situations, the tubes bend. This puts the axle shafts at an angle to the center section, which wears out the carrier bearings.

Both Sears and Wal-Mart sell a small, flat battery charger/maintainer that can be permanently mounted under the hood, right next to the battery, for this purpose. And Jeep probably still can provide the factory block heater that was offered as an option on the 4.0L engines. It replaces the forward freeze plug on the driver's side of the block and keeps things nice and toasty. Between the two, you can be fairly certain the engine will start. But you still need to drive it like a little old lady for about the first ten miles or 15 minutes, because the lube in the tranny and the differential will be icy cold, and until they get stirred up a bit it's not a good idea to accelerate hard or drive fast. Many years ago I had an engine oil temperature gauge in one of my cars. For the engine oil to get up to normal operating temperature on a cold morning took all the way to where I would get on the highway going to work -- about 8 miles/15 minutes. I'm sure the axle lube was just barely getting the wake-up call by then, with no source of heat other than friction (which, of course, is what we're hoping the lube will prevent).

:agree:

1. you contradicted your self by saying only the 225/75's came on the 4.0L I-6, and using the 225/75 v.s 225/70 comparison. I didn't contradict myself at all. First, I didn't say that only the 225/75s came with the 4.0L. I said that was the LARGEST size the factory used. Second, I used the sizing comparison of the 225/75-15 versus the 225/70-16 to show the difference going from a 75 series to a 70 series makes. I chose that example because both were offered by Jeep on the 2000 Cherokee, and I have one of each parked in my garage right now. But that's for 2000, when Jeep offered 16" rims on the Cherokee Classic and Limited. They did NOT offer either 16" rims or 70-series tires on the Comanche -- ever. The point was that you have a truck that came from the factory with 75-series tires on it, and you are now running 70-series tires on it. Ergo ==> your tires are smaller than stock, which equates to the same thing as having more gear. If you want to make your comparison valid, compare the same nominal size between a 70-series and a 75-series. Take either a 205/70-15 vs. a 205/75-15, or a 225/70-15 vs. a 225/75-15.