Eagle

There is no relay. But the standard blinker "can" is load sensitive. They are made that way so the blink rate will change if one bulb burns out. However, since LED lights don't draw nearly as much as incandescent lights, they don't activate the blinker. I believe the cure is to buy one of the electronic blinker modules that is NON-load sensing (the kind used for vehicles with a trailer tow package). The blink rate for those is the same regardless of how many bulbs (and thus how much draw) are in the circuit.

I assume you mean 31" tires, not wheels. You don't have to lift to run 31s. I'm running 31s on my '88 XJ with no lift, and I ran them on the '88 MJ even after I unlifted it.

There is no fuse or relay. The switch has a circuit breaker built into it -- if the high beams work, the headlight switch is good. The problem is either in the dimmer switch, or in the wiring. (Unless, of course, both low beam filaments are burned out.)

I know for a fact the XJ measurements are 17.5" front and 17" Rear, I'm pretty certian i read at some point that MJs are 19" rear. wether it was a 2wd or 4wd measurement is beyond me.... :dunno: 17-1/2 for the front is correct (I think that's for 4WD), but 19 for the rear sounds low. Maybe that's for 2WD. I've measured a bunch of MJs informally, and my impression is that the rear should be somewhere around 21". Either way, a fiberglass cap is a fair amount of weight, and visually the rear of that truck is quite a bit higher than a stock MJ without the cap. I'd guess the rear springs are the equivalent of a bout a 3" lift.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29388 This has been discussed many times here before.

Wiring is plug-n-play. You don't need any connectors or harness. Unplug the old cluster, plug in the new one. Replace the two sensors, and it's done. Except that you have to do something about the PRNDL for the column shift. If your 4WD light stays on, the front axle probably has not disconnected. Sometimes stopping, then backing up for a couple of car (ahem, "vehicle") lengths will do it.

It should. Under normal conditions, that hose/tube is an air INLET tube. Air is supposed to be drawn into the crankcase through that tube, to replace what's drawn out by the small CCV tube at the rear of the valve cover. For practical purposes, if you have enough blowby that you need a catch can your system is probably working in reverse and the tube open to the atmosphere probably won't be drawing much (if any) unfiltered, dirt-laden air into the crankcase.

What engine do you have, what transmission do you have, what tire size are you running and what's your axle gear ratio? You can consult the tire size & RPM spread sheet I posted a link to to see what you should be showing. It should be a sticky thread at the top of this tech area of the forum. Sorry - it's in D.I.Y. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=28875

Where you will feel/notice bump steer is, as the name implies, when you go over bumps. A speed bump will do it, but you're traveling slow enough that you won't be bothered by it. Get on a faster piece of road that has undulations that alternately load and unload the front suspension, and that's when it appears. When the suspension compresses, the vehicle will dart to one side, and when the suspension unloads it'll dart to the opposite side -- all without your moving the steering wheel. It's very unsettling, and IMHO unsafe.

Try to do it with the tank nearly empty. Put a 2x6 and a jack under the tank near the strap you're replacing.

Base model style, or "hockey stick" style?

Anyone contemplating trying it to see what bump steer is like ... I virtually guarantee you that you will not enjoy it.

Which shaft, the input shaft or the pitman shaft on the bottom? What do you mean by "loose"? If you just mean free play in rotation, there is an adjustment for that (which has to be undertaken with caution, or you trash the box). If either shaft has side-to-side wobble, the box needs to be rebuilt.

No. That's a complete window assembly, with a 2-pane slider. The factory window has a single slider, and all we're looking for is replacement glass.

It's the same jack handle as in the XJs. In the XJ it should be under the rear seat.

Considering that the 4.0L engine was never available without fuel injection, I think you should call the cam company and ask what they mean. Might be a misprint.

What car did you have that used the Jeep 2.5L engine? And what is an "ic" head?

Or install WJ lower control arms. They have a bend that allows the tires to turn fully without rubbing.

What do you mean by "fit"? Anything can be made to fit, with sufficient infusions of time, labor and money. If you're asking if you can just bolt it in -- no.

You don't need spacers. You'll lose 1/2 turn off the steering range. Translation: The steering in the MJ is 3-1/2 turns lock to lock. That means from center to either extreme is 1-3/4 turns of the steering wheel. It only rubs at the very extreme -- if you on;y turn the wheel 1-1/2 turns either way, it doesn't rub. I've been driving on 31 x 10.50s on stock rims, with no lift, for several years. No spacers, either.

I'm wondering the exact same thing. My brother managed to bust my rear slider and one of the fixed side panes this winter (idjit). I'm hoping there's a way to repair/replace.

Are you saying that you have removed the air INLET hose from the stock air box the the valve cover, and installed a stand-up style breather cap directly on top of the valve cover? That tube is the air INLET. It pulls clean air through the air filter INTO the engine. If you replaced it with a breather cap, it should also be functioning as an INLET. If you're getting oil pushed out of it, you do have a blowby problem. Part of it could be that the suction line (the very small tube off the back end of the valve cover, to the intake manifold) is clogged. However, if your rings are worn and the engine is generating a lot of blowby, even an open CCV tube probably can't keep up. If the blowby generates too much pressure in the crankcase for the CCV system to handle, the excess is forced out the inlet (reverse cycle), with however much oil fumes are in the mix. Start by running a compression check.

Personally, I'd just cut the wires and hot-wire the NSS. IMHO it's one more solution in search of a problem.

1) Are you sure the aux fan is activating? The one in my wife's 2000 XJ is seized up solid, and it was overheating at the end of the summer. Now that Spring is here I need to install the replacement that's riding around still in the box behind the seat. 2) Are you certain there are no air pockets, and that the system is filled? 3) Are you certain you got the correct water pump? The 4.0L with the serpentine belt uses a reverse rotation (compared to the older engines with multiple vee belts) water pump. The housing and bolt pattern are the same. If you got a water pump for a 4.2L with vee belts, it ain't pushin' any coolant, and that's not a good thing.

How hot does it get?