Eagle

True, the 87 won't have it unless it was retrofitted as a TSB. You can bypass it. If you find it, just jumper the two wires together. But they should have it. AutoZone has it: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... ing=search

Start - run - die usually mean the ballast resistor for the fuel pump has died. The resistor get bypassed when starting, so the engine gets fuel when cranking, fires up, then when you release the key back the RUN position the circuit reverts to the ballast resistor ==> no more fuel, so it runs out what's in the rail, then dies.

What do you expect when you post at 11:00 p.m.? Not everyone stays awake at midnight to greet new members who are too impatient to wait more than a couple of hours for an answer to a question that probably nobody has ever encountered. We're a friendly and helpful bunch here, but you might try being a bit realistic in your demands.

I dunno -- before I met and married my wife I was always on the lookout for an affordable Jeep wench. Then there was the ad some years ago for a somewhat modified Wrangler, in which the seller proudly proclaimed "worn hubs."

After you bled and then opened the front bleeder, did you step on the brake peddle? The purpose of opening the front bleeder is to simulate a front brake failure, causing the shuttle valve in the front metering block to move and open the passage to the bypass circuit to the rear. If you're using a pressure bleeder, I don't think just opening the front bleeder would activate the bypass circuit.

Any carpet store. Ask them for some scraps of jute carpet underlay.

If you can let go of the steering wheel and it stops, and if it's not nearly as bad as it was -- you do NOT have death wobble, you have wheel shimmy. If you can continue to drive and if it isn't a struggle to even keep the vehicle on the road -- it ain't death wobble. There's a reason it's called DEATH wobble.

Matte black.

(a) You get oil all over the engine compartment (B) you get abrasive dust and dirt in your crankcase.

What else would you expect? In any gear, with an automatic the engine is pushing against the resistance of the torque converter when the vehicle is stopped. Shift into neutral and suddenly the resistance is gone.

There is no relay. But the standard blinker "can" is load sensitive. They are made that way so the blink rate will change if one bulb burns out. However, since LED lights don't draw nearly as much as incandescent lights, they don't activate the blinker. I believe the cure is to buy one of the electronic blinker modules that is NON-load sensing (the kind used for vehicles with a trailer tow package). The blink rate for those is the same regardless of how many bulbs (and thus how much draw) are in the circuit.

I assume you mean 31" tires, not wheels. You don't have to lift to run 31s. I'm running 31s on my '88 XJ with no lift, and I ran them on the '88 MJ even after I unlifted it.

There is no fuse or relay. The switch has a circuit breaker built into it -- if the high beams work, the headlight switch is good. The problem is either in the dimmer switch, or in the wiring. (Unless, of course, both low beam filaments are burned out.)

I know for a fact the XJ measurements are 17.5" front and 17" Rear, I'm pretty certian i read at some point that MJs are 19" rear. wether it was a 2wd or 4wd measurement is beyond me.... :dunno: 17-1/2 for the front is correct (I think that's for 4WD), but 19 for the rear sounds low. Maybe that's for 2WD. I've measured a bunch of MJs informally, and my impression is that the rear should be somewhere around 21". Either way, a fiberglass cap is a fair amount of weight, and visually the rear of that truck is quite a bit higher than a stock MJ without the cap. I'd guess the rear springs are the equivalent of a bout a 3" lift.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29388 This has been discussed many times here before.

Wiring is plug-n-play. You don't need any connectors or harness. Unplug the old cluster, plug in the new one. Replace the two sensors, and it's done. Except that you have to do something about the PRNDL for the column shift. If your 4WD light stays on, the front axle probably has not disconnected. Sometimes stopping, then backing up for a couple of car (ahem, "vehicle") lengths will do it.

It should. Under normal conditions, that hose/tube is an air INLET tube. Air is supposed to be drawn into the crankcase through that tube, to replace what's drawn out by the small CCV tube at the rear of the valve cover. For practical purposes, if you have enough blowby that you need a catch can your system is probably working in reverse and the tube open to the atmosphere probably won't be drawing much (if any) unfiltered, dirt-laden air into the crankcase.

What engine do you have, what transmission do you have, what tire size are you running and what's your axle gear ratio? You can consult the tire size & RPM spread sheet I posted a link to to see what you should be showing. It should be a sticky thread at the top of this tech area of the forum. Sorry - it's in D.I.Y. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=28875

Where you will feel/notice bump steer is, as the name implies, when you go over bumps. A speed bump will do it, but you're traveling slow enough that you won't be bothered by it. Get on a faster piece of road that has undulations that alternately load and unload the front suspension, and that's when it appears. When the suspension compresses, the vehicle will dart to one side, and when the suspension unloads it'll dart to the opposite side -- all without your moving the steering wheel. It's very unsettling, and IMHO unsafe.

Try to do it with the tank nearly empty. Put a 2x6 and a jack under the tank near the strap you're replacing.

Base model style, or "hockey stick" style?

Anyone contemplating trying it to see what bump steer is like ... I virtually guarantee you that you will not enjoy it.

Which shaft, the input shaft or the pitman shaft on the bottom? What do you mean by "loose"? If you just mean free play in rotation, there is an adjustment for that (which has to be undertaken with caution, or you trash the box). If either shaft has side-to-side wobble, the box needs to be rebuilt.

No. That's a complete window assembly, with a 2-pane slider. The factory window has a single slider, and all we're looking for is replacement glass.

It's the same jack handle as in the XJs. In the XJ it should be under the rear seat.