Eagle

I agree with the above. You can get the motor mounts and such from a 2.8L XJ or MJ (1984-1986), but the 2.8L was carbureted, not fuel injected. Other than motor mounts, manifolds, and brackets, not much elese will work. And you can't use the 2.8L flywheel. The 2.8L was externally balanced -- meaning the flywheel has an eccentric weight on it. By the time GM got around to the 3.1/3.4L engines, they had that figured out and the flywheels were neutrally balanced. To use a 2.8L flywheel, you can send it to a shop and have the eccentric weight cut off and the flywheel rebalanced. If you have an automatic, you have to figure out a way to get a torque converter neutral balanced. A late model, multi-port 2.5L will not equal the horsepower of a 3.4L V-6, but overall would be a big step up from your throttle body 2.5L and probably easier to accomplish overall.

Likewise, I have access to two local, old line commercial spring shops where I can get them custom bent to order. If I didn't live within range of these shops, I would start on-line with Husky Spring.

The good news is that your "new" cluster is the new type, so there is a potentiometer you can use to calibrate the tach to your 4-cylinder engine (assuming it probably came out of a 4.0L vehicle). As to the lights, first I would check all the bulbs to be sure they aren't burned out. Easy to check -- rotate the socket a quarter turn (counter-clockwise, IIRC) and pull it out. The bulb is a press-in fit. If the bulb is clear, it should be good. If the glass looks blackened or smokey, it's burned out. There's also a fuse in the fuse panel for the cluster lights. Check that. And you are correct, the speedo cable is different.

Not possible with the 4.0L. For some reason, although the 2.5L is based on the same design, supposedly you can remove the lifters without pulling the head. I have not done it, so I can't confirm or refute.

Dynamite. Then you won't be tempted to try repairing it again.

Only if the motor mounts are bad. When my '88 Cherokee 4.0L hit around 100k one of the motor mounts broke. I drove it like that for several weeks and the fan never hit the shroud. As already suggested, try urethane motor mounts.

Actually it could very well be related to the fact he has a stroker. I'd try some urethane motor/trans mounts. That would be the best solution to that problem IMO. How? The stroker uses the same block and the same peripherals as a stock 4.0L so HOW could changing the crankshaft and rods inside the engine make the fan hit the shroud?

220 is not hot. 210 is the normal operating temperature. If the needle doesn't get into the red, I wouldn't worry about it. I doubt you can actually read the difference between 210 and 220 on the gauge. If the mechanical fan rubs the shroud, you have a problem that should be addressed that's unrelated to temperature and not related to the fact you have a stroker. I'd figure out what the problem is before making wholesale changes to the cooling system.

The rule of thumb is that you can run tires up to 4 inches wider than your rims, so with 7-inch rims you can run up to 11-inch tires. I have seen 33x9.50-15 tires on XJs, but I don't know if they are still available. I'm pretty sure that 33x10.50-15 is an available size. However ... if I may, I'd like to propose that you seem to be approaching this backwards. The goal should be to lift as little as possible to run the tire size you need to get the vehicle where you'll be going. That means you should select the tire size FIRST, then decide how much lift you actually need in order to run those tires. 6 inches sounds like a lot of lift to run 33s when you can run 31x10.50s with zero lift.

As already noted, the new style fenders are more rounded at the top, where the old style have a chamfer or bevel. When you put the new header on the old fenders, the upper/outside corner of the header extends beyond that chamfer. If you don't want to buy new fenders, a work-around is to fill in the back of those rounded corners with Bondo before you mount the header. Once it's in place, you shave down the corners to blend into the chamfered profile of the old style fenders. What you wind up with is the new style grille but not the more rounded profile of the newer fenders.

Why are you adding a relay? The aux fan already has a relay -- just add a wire from your dash switch to the input side of the relay control circuit.

You have bypassed the ballast resistor, I assume, by just jumpering the two wires at the resistor location on the inner fender, right? But the START circuit still has its bypass that directs full 12 volts to the fuel pump when the engine is cranking on the starter motor. That bypasses the whole ballast resistor portion of the circuit, so I would suspect a break somewhere in that START bypass circuit.

No, the Chief had manual windows, bench seat and mini console. You could get power windows as an option, but they weren't part of the package. I don't know if buckets and a full console were even optional in the Chief. Most all the goodies were included in the Eliminator package.

Switch to 15W50 full synthetic.

The highway pressure is a bit low, but if the idle pressure doesn't go below 25 psi you're good. The factory spec is 13 psi minimum at idle, and 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. And that's for a NEW engine.

'86 didn't have a clutch safety interlock. '88 didn't, and I'm pretty certain m9 '89 doesn't. I think that first appeared in the mid- to late 90s. Your CPS may be failing. That can cause hard starting. (Before it causes no starting.)

Any chance you replaced the water pump and got one for a 4.2L engine by mistake? The 4.2L used conventional vee belts and the water pump rotates the opposite direction -- but the housing bolt pattern is the same so it WILL bolt right onto a 4.0L engine. With the impeller blades pitched the wrong way, it can't create much flow.

Not at 1700 (or 1900) RPM. An internal combustion engine is, fundamentally, an air pump. Flow mods don't make any significant difference in the lower part of the RPM band. You benefit from flow improvements at high RPM, where the stock system can't flow enough to produce the power needed. For a race engine it's important. For a daily driver, it's not important. At 1900 RPM, a 4.0L engine is moving an absolute maximum of 133 CFM through the engine ... and that's assuming 100 percent volumetric exchange on every cylinder, which an internal combustion engine never achieves. The real key is ... what's your shift point? 3600 RPM? So you need to flow 266 CFM if you're shifting at 3600 RPM -- which is probably high if you're running an RV (torque) cam.

If you will be welding on "new" perches, there's no need to cut the old ones off.

No, Pat, I did not miss the part about the intake and the cam. I also did not miss where you said it will be primarily a daily driver. Lowering the torque curve does not result in a need for a high flow exhaust system ... and especially not for an engine that's not being run most of the time up at or near the red line. FWIW, the choice of cam has no effect on the engine speed/road speed relationship -- that's a mechanical ration that is entirely determined by tire diameter, axle ratio, and transmission ratio. If you are running 235/75-15 tires through 3.07 gears, then I respectfully submit that if your tach is telling you 1700 RPM at 70 MPH, your tachometer is wrong. Those numbers I toss out are all calculated based on actual tire manufacturers' data, in most cases actual revolutions-per-mile ... which is the only accurate way to calculate the engine speed from the road speed. A different tire model or make may vary by a few RPMs, but not by 200. Nonetheless ... Gibson's Jeep exhausts are tuned for hauling and they are reputed to really work. I never tried one but I dated a gal who had a Gibson system in her TJ. If I were ever to go for an aftermarket system, that's what I'd get.

235s and 3.07 gears does not make for a combination that calls for a high flow exhaust. Back when my '88 XJ was fairly new, the first time the exhaust went my brother was managing a Speedy muffler shop. He talked me into letting him install a Speedy (Walker, I think) 2-1/2" cat back system with a 2-1/2" turbo muffler. I will admit it sounded great. Not much louder than the OEM exhaust, but a bit deeper and throatier. Problem was, I hated it from the day it was installed. It's the only time in my life that I counted the days until an exhaust system rusted out so I could justify replacing it. I LOST toque -- I could feel it didn't have as much power when accelerating, and (more important to me) I also lost about 2 MPG in fuel economy. When that system finally needed to be replaced, I went to Auto Zone for a stock 2-1/4" exhaust and an OEM-type 2-1/4" muffler. The torque was back, the gas mileage came back to where it had been pre-turbo, and life was (generally) good. With 235 tires running through 3.07 gearing, your 70 MPH highway cruise will be just over 1900 RPM. Skip 5th gear and run in 4th and it's still only 2580 RPM. I don't think the high flow is going to do for you what you think it is, or what you want. If you MUST go high flow, I'd suggest Gibson. Their exhausrs are tuned for torque-type cams and power bands. And they sound GREAT behind the Jeep 4.0 engine -- the only performance aftermarket exhaust that (IMHO) doesn't sound like crap.

The actual switch is on the base of the steering column. Follow the wires from the firewall.

How do you drive and what's the gearing? Basically, unless you're doing drag racing or road racing, I think a stock replacement is all you need. Buy it once from Auto Zone and it's guaranteed for life. The thing with wanting a high flow is ... do you need it? The 4.0L engine is redlined at 5,000 RPM, and you probably can't get much beyond that even if you tried because the valve trail will float and act like a rev limiter. But a daily driver is probably going to spend the majority of it's life under 3,000 RPM, and probably under 2,500 RPM. You just don't NEED the extra capacity of a high flow muffler to do that.

One person didn't stop that. JCR was selling a bumper that was not suitable for the purpose for which they were implying it was made. If they hadn't stopped making it, someone would have sued them under the implied warranty of merchantability provisions of the Uniform Commercial Code and they would have been a lot less happy. Why they didn't just make it using the correct material for the draw tube is a mystery, but I'm very happy I didn't get suckered into buying one.

De acuerdo, amigo.