Eagle

Yeah. Bob Salemi, the guy in Rhode Island who runs the pro stock MJ, did exactly that on his daily driver XJ. It came out very nicely. I don't have pics, but he did just what you propose -- filled in the upper corners, mounted the header to the fenders, than filed and sanded down the corners to blend into the contours of the fenders.

I would guess you are correct. The headlight switch in the dash has a circuit breaker that reacts to current draw. If the new lights are run through a relay, the switch should be seeing a lot LESS current than the OEM setup, and it would be seeing the same draw for high beams or low beams.

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Thanks to CPA Tim's electrical manual, I confirmed my recollection that there is no black box such as in your photos associated with the headlights. The box you are tinkering with is either the ECU or a cruise control module. I would disconnect from it anything that isn't factory, put it back in the dashboard where it belongs, and start over on the foglight wiring.

What are you using for the pan gasket? Are you using the new, one-piece gasket (good) or the old, multi-piece gasket set (bad)?

None of us likes to waste money throwing parts at problems with no result, and we don't generally start off by suggesting that you throw parts at anything. We generally suggest taking some time to figure out what the probel might be, THEN take a deep breath and throw a part or two at it. The problem is, some people read ONE response and then rush out to buy that part, while three other people are explaining why that part can't be the problem. I know you want your truck running and on the road, but it's more than twenty years old, and somebody has been changing things. You cannot reasonably expect to figure out what's wrong just by guessing. You will have to investigate, test, diagnose ... and then mutter incantations on the night of the full moon to the Jeep deity of your choice. Basics: To run, an internal combustion engine requires three things: fuel, air, and spark. You have an aftermarket distributor, so spark is (IMHO) immediately suspect. Easy check -- pull a plug wire off, hold it in INSULATED pliers near a head bolt, have someone crank the engine, and hope you see a big, fat, blue spark jump from the wire to the bolt. Try that, and report back what you found.

What year MJ is this? Does that box have a Jeep part number on it? It certainly has nothing to do with headlights.

As Jim already wrote, more likely the rod bearings. But, as long as you're in there, it doesn't make sense not to replace everything.

??? 1999 was the first year for the WJ. Is this really a WJ and you wrote the wrong year, or is it a ZJ? 1997 (or 1999, if it's a WJ) was OBD-II. Takes an OBD-II scanner.

Whatever you do, DON'T "grind" anything off the bench. IIRC, the MJ pedestals are simply bolted to the seats. And the pedestals are the same for the bench and for the buckets, except the right side for the bench doesn't have the handle for the fore-aft adjustment.

The TJ front axles are bolt-ins, but they are low pinion. Aren't the JK axles 4" wider?

First, what brand oil filter did you put on? If it's a Fram ... change it and report back what the oil pressure is. Second: Your MJ's oil pressure is FAR too high and you should not use that for a basis of diagnosis. The factory spec is (with the engine at operating temperature) 13 psi minimum at idle, and 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. Every 4.0L I've encountered with under 100,000 miles on it has run 50 to 55 psi at 55 to 60 MPH, and idle typically is around 25 psi. The readings on your "new" XJ were within spec before you did the oil change, although lower than I would expect or than I would want to see. I would agree that (if a new oil filter doesn't make a difference) you probably need to replace the bearings.

You haven't mentioned checking either the coil or the ignition module. You also haven't mentioned if the aftermarket distributor works with those or replaced those. The factory ignition is (was) a high-output ignition, so why anyone would have installed an aftermarket distributor is beyond my understanding. My best guess is that there was a problem, he tried to "fix" it, the fix didn't work so he sold the truck.

What difference does it make how they feel while you're bleeding? I've been at this for more than fifty years and I've never heard of anyone bleeding the brakes with the engine running. Not ever. If they're soft, they'll be soft with the engine off, and if they're hard they'll be hard. The point is to get the air out, and you have much better feel for what's happening under your foot without the vacuum booster "helping." Actually, you want the drums adjusted BEFORE you bleed, otherwise excess travel in the shoes may feel like a spongy peddle when it isn't. I agre with JeepCO -- the OP has a vacuum leak.

Correct. The right side should be there, used for the tailpipe hanger. I have a set of new hitch nut plates for the XJ that I'll use if needed.

If anyone is cruising the pick-n-pull junkyards, please be on the lookout for a 97+ Cherokee with a factory gas tank skid. My wife's and my 2000 XJs both have the Up Country package, but I recently picked up a (somewhat) low mileage 2001 for our daughter, and I'd like to Up Country-ize it. I have the springs, I have a transfer case skid, and I think I have a front skid. I need a gas tank skid. TIA

Whatever they call them, the 2000 XJ Classic and Limited came with 16" rims and 225/70R16 tires. That's not a typo -- the 70-series 225s in a 16" size are the same outside diameter as the 225/75 in a 15" size. The same 16" rims were used on the Liberty for at least the first couple of years of production.

Don't misunderstand. You might get 5-1/2 inches, but realistically you should figure on 6 inches MINIMUM. If you aren't prepared to go that high, then don't do a SOA conversion.

Mostly it means the previous owner(s) probably never changed the oil, and did a lot of low-speed, local driving. Start cleaning with a narrow putty knife and a shop vacuum. You need to keep the vacuum running so whatever you scrape loose gets sucked up rather than fall into the oil passages. Or ... pull the head and send it to a shop to be hot tanked.

I'm sure some of the aftermarket companies still make electric fuel pumps that produce 7 psi for use with carburetors. It would have to be mounted externally but no regulator will be needed. Check Summit racing.

The rear bumper was an option. In '86, the 4-speed was probably an AX-4 but it could have been a T-4.

Extended sway bar links. Adjustable track bar.

That size is equivalent to a 31x9.50. You don't need any lift to run those tires, so don't lift it unless something changes to create a need.

As already asked, why are you considering swapping the transfer case? The ratios are the same, so there is nothing to be gained by doing that. Just swap the axles. If it's the vacuum port on your transfer case you're worried about -- just cap it. Next question: why go SOA? Do you **NEED** 6 or more inches of lift? That's what a SOA is going to give you, as a minimum. To match that in the front, you'll need adjustable control arms (or long arms), an adjustable track bar, extended sway bar links and/or sway bar drop brackets. You'll need much longer flexible brake hoses front and rear. I'll probably catch a lot of flack for saying this, but IMHO running 33" tires on a daily driver is dumb. They are big, heavy, don't wear well, and expensive. Your gas mileage is going to suck, even with the swap to 3.55 gearing. For a daily driver you'd be much better off with about a 2" lift and 31s. Moreover, what size 33s, and on what wheels? Remember, 31x10.50s on factory rims ride VERY close to the springs and the inner fender liners. Mine rubbed any time the rear axle defelcted more on one side than on the other. If your 33s are any wider than 10.5" you'll need either spacers in the rar, or aftermarket rims with less backspacing than the factory rims. And rims with less backspecing then create other issues in the front. Consider ALL the implications of what you're going to do before you start doing.

First, what wheels do you plan to use? Factory Jeep rims, or aftermarket? If aftermarket, how much backspacing? It makes a difference. Also, do you plan to -- or are you willing to -- remove the flares and cut the sheetmetal, or do you want to keep the body intact?