Eagle

Neither. Don't lift it. Not needed. Once you lift it, you start needing other parts. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

You can run up to 31x10.50s on factory rimes with no lift. Put on your 30" tires and drive it -- save your money for something you need.

If you still have the factory flares, the stock measurements from the center of the hub to the bottom edge of the flare should be 17-1/2" front and 21-1/2" rear. My suggestion for searching shocks is the Monroe catalog. Their web site has the same info. They offer listings in the back for physical dimensions of all their shocks, with the type of mount on each end, and they offer a reverse look-up from shock number to vehicle. So you look up the shocks for a stock MJ. Take those numbers and go to the dimensions chart, and find out the minimum and maximum length for each shock. Average those and you have the mid-length measurement, which is where the piston should be sitting at the curb on level ground. If you have a 5-1/2" lift, next you just leaf through the shocks by dimension until you find one with the correct end mounts that's 5-1/2" longer (or as close as possible) than stock. If you like that series of Monroe, just buy it. Or ... take that to the reverse lookup chart and see what vehicle it fits. Then you can shop other brands for that make and model vehicle and you'll have your shocks.

The ones from the Mopar Performance Catalog are heavier-duty and cost less than half as much. http://www.mopar.com/assets/pdf/performance/catalog/Steering_Suspension_&_Brakes.pdf Scroll to the top of page 10

This is correct. Just unplug it. It isn't a Check Engine light, it's nothing but a reminder to replace the O2 sensor. The factory says to replace the light/timer and that it isn't serviceable, but people have figured out how to reset it if you wish to retain it. To the OP -- how does your engine run with no oxygen sensor? And by that, I don't mean "does it run well or badly." I don't think the system will function with no oxygen sensor. (Or does it default to open loop mode and you're just running a rich mix all the time?)

Yes, that's the CAD vacuum harness.

You're right ... once the thermostat opens fully, the coolant flows as much as it can. But -- the coolant can also flow TOO fast. When I crewed on short track stock cars, most of the teams trimmed the impellers on the water pumps to make them flow LESS water (no glycol allowed on the race track) because the engines were always turning high RPMs. The coolant didn't have enough "dwell time" in the radiator to allow heat transfer to take place otherwise. To some extent, that may be happening with your Jeep. The radiator is blocked, so less cool/cold air can pass through the fins. At idle, the fans can pull air up from beneath, but when you're moving the nose of the vehicle probably channels airflow under and over the vehicle rather than past the winch. But ... back to basics. Your photos do not show "overheating." If it isn't boiling over and spewing coolant, it isn't overheating.

For the '87, there's a vacuum line that runs from a port on the transfer case to a switch on the firewall. That controls the dash 4WD light, IIRC, and from there the vacuum splits into a harness that goes to the axle disconnect shift motor. You can just lock the axle in the 4WD position and not worry about it. And you don't really need the 4WD light, unless you think you're likely to put it into 4WD and forget ...

Seats - check Electronics - totally different Fuse block - Don't know, never looked at a '92 Cruise - Don't know

Considering the mismatch on the flex plate signal windows, I don't see any point at all in trying a timing light or testing the CPS. That new flex plate ain't a-gonna work, and you can take that to the bank. Call Todd or Richie at Bradshaw Jeep and ask them to order a Crown flex plate for you. I put one into an '88 XJ a couple of years ago (same problem, original was cracked) and it worked fine. 860-274-8834, Ext 3

You can use that harness. If you stay with the 5-speed, obviously tou won't need the tranny computer and its associated wiring.

But the internals are different. The XJ "thingie" is a proportioning valve, with a spring and a plunger in it. The MJ "thingie" is nothing but a distribution block, with a shuttle valve to allow bypassing the rear height-sensing valve in the event of a front brake loss.

What CPS is in the truck now? Is the CPS compatible with the flywheel/flexplate?

I was thinking the same thing.

Plugging the bottom outlet and using the "nose" outlet is correct. Only thing I can think of is that the new master cylinder may be defective.

No, I don't. What a lot of people don't understand is that the purpose of the thermostat in an automobile is to keep the coolant temperature UP, not down. If your system stabilized and was able to idle for a half hour without the temperature climbing into the red, it would probably sit there all day. Your thoughts about air restriction are valid, but they apply more when the vehicle is moving, and they apply most when you're moving faster. I used to have a full-size Cherokee 360 with a snow plow on it. On COLD winter days I could plow long driveways and clear turn-arounds and parking areas with no problem. BUT -- when I lifted the plow to drive down the road to anyplace more than a mile or so away, the temperature would climb into the red very quickly. With the plow down and working, the fan could pull plenty of air through the radiator. With the plow off, air could get to/through the radiator with the truck moving down the road. The plow, unfortunately, "plowed" air away from the radiator. It created a low pressure zone so even the heavy duty fan couldn't pull any air through the radiator. The faster I drove, the LESS air could get to the radiator.

Don't pull relays, use a VOM and check fuses. See what's pulling current with the ignition off.

NGKs are best in the Jeep engines -- the non-platinum, plain vanilla plugs. Second best is Champion truck plugs.

Vacuum leak. Probably a bad booster. Dunno why you can't get a decent peddle with the engine off, though. The rear height sensing valve was removed by a previous owner? What outlet on the front metering block did he retain for the rear circuit, and how did he block off the unused port? The MJ originally had two separate lines from the front to the rear. One fed into the height sensing valve, for normal operation. The other was a bypass line that provided full brake power to the rear wheels if the front circuit failed. A lot of people eliminate the wrong line.

Blue88, he asked about a traction bar, not a sway bar. As previously commented, traction bars have their place. For a stock vehicle running on stock (or near stock) tires, things are all pretty much as the manufacturer designed it so we can probably safely assume that it pretty much works. Go to a SOA and a lift and much bigger tires, and everything changes. And ALL the changes are bad for the springs. All the changes allow the tires to apply more twisting torque to the springs. Just think about the effect of tires. Stock MJ tires are approximately 29 inch diameter. A jump to 33-inch tires changes the diameter by 4 inches and the radius (which is the lever arm) by 2 inches. With NO other changes, a jump to 33-inch tires increases the torque transmitted back into the springs from the axle by 13.8 percent. Then consider that with a SOA, the centerline of the axle is farther away from the main leaf than when running SUA -- I haven't run the numbers, but there's another torque increase. There's no question that a lot of people don't run traction bars, but they ARE a good idea. If you can't run one, be sure your springs have the long, thick overload leaf on the bottom, because that will help considerably to resist spring wrap.

One of the MAJOR downsides to that nose is the headlights. You'd get more light on the road with a quartet of kerosene railroad lanterns. Plus -- they're very hard to find. Burn one out and you won't likely find a replacement in Wal*Mart.

What you are describing was used for only a couple of years on the XJ Wagoneer. It is not a "Renix style," and it was never offered on the Cherokee or the Comanche. Somebody swapped it on, so you can certainly swap it off. The real question is how the person doing the swap wired the headlights. If you're lucky, he just tapped into the existing wires to feed the second lamp on each side and you can just remove the taps and be done. If he actually cut anything, you'll have to figure out what he cut and UNcut it. The rest of it is bolt-up. Just keep in mind that Chrysler changed the design of the header and trim pieces in 1990 or 1991. Either type will work as long as everything comes from the same generation of donor vehicle, but you can't (easily) use the grille and trim from one in the header panel from the other.

Considering that the Mopar CPS operates on a completely different theory than the Renix CPS, I'd be surprised if there's any signal at all to trigger a timing light.

The 2.5L used a conventional PCV valve, and the 4.2L version of the I-6 used a PCV valve. I've always wondered how it would work to just use a PCV for one of the older AMC sixes.

That's pretty much it -- multi-port injection (one per cylinder) rather than a single injector in the throttle body. I don't know, but I would expect that the head got the same port revisions the 4.0L got when it went from Renix to Mopar. The change affects both injection and ignition, so you would need all under-hood wiring and the Mopar ECU to make it work. The MPFI version was rated for quite a boost in power -- The original carbureted version was rated as producing 105 horsepower at 5,000 RPM and 132 foot-pounds of torque at 2800 RPM. The throttle body injected version produced 117 horsepower at 5,000 RPM and 135 foot-pounds of torque at 3,500 RPM when it was introduced in the 1986 model year. This was raised to 121 horsepower at 5,250 RPM and 141 foot-pounds of torque at 3,250 RPM for model years 1987 through 1990. The final, multi-port injected version produced 130 horsepower at 5,250 RPM and 150 foot-pounds of torque at 3,250 RPM.