Eagle

I agree on the Wrangler hoses, but DO NOT try to reroute the metal lines on the fender. At this point, they are old and brittle, and trying to bend them is just asking for them to break. For a stock height suspension or even up to about a 3" lift, the YJ hoses alone are more than enough. There is no need to play with the hard lines.

the thing is I'm not tearing the rubber portion. I am bending the metal 90* elbow where is enters the caliber...I think... at least thats where the fluid is dripping from Have you removed or disconnected your sway bar links? If you are bending the metal end, you are obviously over-extending the lines and you need to get longer ones. Get hoses for a '94/'95 YJ Wrangler. You may need to bend the metal tube on the caliper end slightly, but the hoses are enough longer that your problem should be eliminated.

Most XJ or MJ owners who swap transfer cases migrate FROM the 231 to the 242 in order to gain the full-time capability. As noted, the 231 is only slightly stronger, and in years of wheeling with NAXJA NAC I never saw anyone manage to break a 242. It's your choice, but I wouldn't swap out a 242 in favor of a 231 if I already had the 242.

It's the left inner tie rod end.

Irrespective of the quality of advice you might get, IMHO the front suspension of a vehicle is NOT the place to start learning how to weld. Either buck up and pay a shop to do it right, or don't do it at all.

Glad you got that solved. For posterity, I just went back and fixed my post. I referred to brake shoes in three places, and I managed to type it wrong in all three. Gotta be a defective keyboard.

1. Brakes. The drum brakes are a type called "servo assist." When the brakes are applied in the forward direction, the rotation helps to force the shoes against the drums for better stopping with less peddle pressure. Doesn't work that way in reverse, which is why the parking brake always holds better when the vehicle is pointed downhill rather than uphill. So check to see if a wheel cylinder is hanging up and not allowing the brake shoes to retract. Or possibly the parking brake cable is rusted and won't let the shoes retract on one side. 2. A clogged catalytic converter reduces power at higher RPMs.

You're not modifying the windshield. The windshields are all the same, and they are held in with adhesive. The stainless steel trim or the gasket serves the same purpose -- trim. Any shop that doesn't understand this should not be trusted to install a windshield anyway.

The factory spec for oil pressure is 13 psi minimum at idle, 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. (At normal operating temperature.) How many miles on your engine? It's more likely that you need rod bearings rather than an oil pump. Since you have to drop the pan to change either, I'd say do both while it's open.

Considering that it's a horrible engine that's not even heavy enough to be a good boat anchor, it's a terrible choice for you. And it's not even an easy swap, since your truck was originally set up for a 4.0L. It would be easy for you to get a complete wiring harness out of a wreck, and just go with the 4.0L again. If you really want to avoid EFI, get a Wrangler (or AMC) 4.2L, which was basically the same engine but with a longer stroke and a carburetor.

The problem with the original XJ/MJ shift knobs was that they had a rubber outer skin that was (somewhat, slightly, in a manner of speaking) bonded to a ceramic sleeve, inside of which was a threaded steel insert. After a (very) few years, the accumulated flex of shifting would break the bond, and crack the ceramic sleeve. Then the rubber outer skin would spin around loosely, and come off in your hand at inconvenient moments. The shift knob in the OP's photo appears to be a TJ shift knob, and it should fit an MJ. After spending God knows how many dollars replacing the original type shift knobs -- only to have the replacements fail in a short time -- I bought the TJ style and never looked back. Dunno why the one in the OP didn't work -- they threaded right on for me. It is a metric thread, and it takes a metric nut as a lock nut. Sorry, but I don't recall the size or thread pitch.

It's not brain surgery, but it does require a FSM for the tranmission, and probably some special tools. I haven't touched the ones I have because they are all 2WD pulls that have no vehicle to go into. I just keep them around for spare parts. I think this would be an excellent opportunity/excuse for an upgrade, but you won't find a 5-speed mated to a 242 transfer case in a junk yard, because Jeep never sold that combination.

What happens is that if you yank hard on the shifter when the clutch is still engaged (even partially), the shift rods inside the tranny pop out of position. Whatever gear was engaged stays engaged, and then if you try to shift into a different gear that one may engage also. That's when things are totally locked up. I have seen this happen with the BA 10/5, I have two AX-15s out in the yard that are both stuck in reverse due to this, and I've even seen it happen to a Borg-Warner T10 transmission (which was basically bullet-proof). The only fix is to pull the tranny, open it up, and realign the internal shift rods and forks.

But that would not result in the front brakes failing.

:facepalm: Read "brakes" thought "clutch" Cancel slave cylinder. In fact, cancel #2 entirely. It's virtually impossible for a caliper to fail such that it doesn't function yet doesn't leak.

If there is a leak anywhere in the front brake circuit, then every time you push the peddle you'll be pushing fluid out of the system, and the master cylinder will be empty. You said the master is full, so that means there is no leak. That leaves the following possibilities: 1. Bad master cylinder 2. Bad slave cylinder 3. Air in the lines

You have a long bed. Don't worry about it.

I thought I had posted this info before. It's from AMC service bulletin I.S. 14E, dated June 1986. This is where they describe checking the ride height by measuring from the axle tubes to the frame rails (rather than center of hub to bottom of flare, which is the way we typically do it .. if we have factory flares). Skipping over the procedures, the stated measurements are: Front: "On two-wheel drive models, vertical distance should be 17 cm (6-3/4 inches) plus or minus 13 mm (1/2 inch). On four-wheel drive models, vertical distance should be 20 cm (7-3/4 inches) plus or minus 13 mm (1/2 inch)." Rear: "On two-wheel drive models, vertical distance should be 21 cm (8.2 inches) plus or minus 13 mm (1/2 inch). On four-wheel drive models, vertical distance should be 23 cm (9.2 inches) plus or minus 13 mm (1/2 inch)." I can't scan it because the paper used in those old AMC manuals is basically like thick newsprint, and if I try to bend the pages enough to sit somewhat flat on a scanner I'm afraid I'll trash the book.

Duplicate threads merged

Pretty much what Timeless wrote. One switch can control multiple relays, and each relay can then power a separate function. The CAD is vacuum controlled. No electrical power involved.

The Fey universal is "okay." The chrome ones have rather thin chrome plating and if you live in the rust belt they WILL rust. Painted or chrome, before mounting you should heavily rust-proof the "back" side of the bumper. They don't mate up to the Jeep mounting brackets. Fey sells bracket kits to mount their bumpers to MJs. Last time I bought a set the brackets cost about $18 for the pair.

ok first which is which: Part Time has 2hi or Full Time. which one is considered the AW4 HOW CAN YOU BE EVEN THINKING ABOUT WORKING ON A JEEP WHEN YOU DON'T EVEN KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A TRANSMISSION AND A TRANSFER CASE? GO TO BARNES & NOBLE, BUY A BOOK, AND READ IT.

Yes, by counting drive shaft revolutions. But: Start at the beginning. Your truck was originally a 2WD. What year, what engine, what transmission? Then you converted it to 4WD. Did you swap both the front and rear axles, or only the front? Are we to understand that you swapped in one or both axles without even knowing what ratio the gears are? What year truck did the "new" axle or axles come out of, what engine did it have, and what transmission? And then we need to know where you want to go with it. If you have to weld new spring perches for the rear axle, the new perches have to be positioned correctly to establish the pinion angle. A few posts above, you asked that that should be. The answer is "It depends." It depends on how much lift you will have, because the amount of lift affects the angle of the drive shaft in the chassis. The spring perch location and pinion angle would be different if you're going to stay at stock height than if you're going to go a SOA conversion.

According to the factory service manual, a 2WD MJ rides 1 inch lower than a 4WD MJ. Curiously, they do NOT list a similar difference between 2WD and 4WD XJs.

Dunno. It all depends on the length, arch, and thickness of the AAL. The AALs in my '88 MJ produced 4 inches of lift with stock shackles.