Eagle

Man, you're brave. The thought of trying to pull a gauge needle off and reinstall it scares me right out of my shoes.

The Pioneer came with a bench seat, and full gauges but no tachometer. The tachometer was available as an option in the Pioneer, the other gauges were standard.

Something's wrong here, because gauges (but not the tachometer) were standard equipment on the Pioneer trim level.

Autozone http://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/control-arm-bushing-front/jeep/cherokee-4wd/2000/6-cylinders-s-4-0l-mfi

People who have encountered the collapsing hose typically see it on the highway. The hose does not return to normal after a "sec." The reports typically are that they have to pull over and shut off the engine to let it cool down. The hose "may" (not "will") open up again after ten or fifteen minutes. Then they start up again, and repeat the cycle a few miles down the road. I would definitely get a spring from somewhere. And 4,000 RPM is revving it pretty high on an engine with a 5,000 RPM redline. The 4.0L Jeep engine is a torque engine, not a race engine. IMHO there's no need or reason to rev it anywhere near 4,000 RPM -- ever.

Yes.

I would need to do some research to try to answer the first question. As to the second question, it's a sensor, not a switch. The sensor feeds input to the PCM, and the PCM then controls whatever needs controlling.

The ZJ Grand Cherokee box is 12.7:1. Most XJ and MJ boxes are 14:1. The 1986 MJ FSM says that MJs with the off-road package had a 17:1 ratio. The slower ratio would be slower (:duh:) but that would not introduce slop -- it's just a slower ratio. I don't know how many years they used the slower ratio with the off-road package; I only have one (early) MJ FSM.

That's what I did in the trail truck. But I don't have a center console.

Respectfully, if you haven't yet done the repair and proven by a couple or few hundred miles of driving that you have no more death wobble, then you don't "know" that you've found the problem. What is it that you think is the problem, and what makes you so sure that's it? Where did you hear that an MJ steering box is supposed to be a variable ratio box? MJs and XJs have always used the same steering box, and to the best of my knowledge they never used a variable ratio box. Even if they did, that wouldn't explain slop in the box -- that's most likely the over center lash adjustment. It can't and doesn't cause death wobble.

You will need a radiator (and supports) from an '87 or newer 4.0L XJ or MJ. You will have to decide whether you want the '87 - '90 "closed" system type, or the '90 + "open" system type. If you are taking the electrics from the '87 donor vehicle, it will be set up with the thermal switch for the auxiliary fan in the left radiator tank. Most of the "open" type radiators don't have a place for this, so you're probably going to need the early style radiator.

I have always preferred standard. While I admit that an automatic is easier in extended, heavy stop-and-go traffic, overall for street and light trail use I would rather have a 5-speed. For serious rock crawling, though, the automatic is IMHO far superior.

Start a separate thread for the brakes -- death wobble is going to occupy pages and pages by itself. Everyone has their own pet theory as to what causes death wobble and how to cure it. My personal pet theory is that it's usually caused by out-of-balance tires.

Those new springs aren't even Metric Ton springs, they're just basic 3+1. There's no way standard-duty springs should be creating lift. That's just wrong.

Personally, I would call General Spring and tell them their springs are not as advertised and you either want them replaced with springs that ride at factory height, or you want your money back. Life's too short to waste it dealing with vendors who create problems rather than solve them.

I've posted this before but, rather than try to link to it, I'll repeat it. This is directly from the MJ FSM: Jeep tech note I.S. 14E explains how to check the ride height on a Comanche. They use the chassis and suspension not the hubs and flares Front: ------ Measure vertical distance between top of axle tube (looks like just inboard of the LCA mount) to the under side of the frame rail. For the passenger side, measure from the axle tube just outboard of the vacuum disconnect housing. For 2WD models the distance should be 6-3/4" +/- 1/2". For 4WD models the distance should be 7-3/4" +/- 1/2" Rear: ------ Measure from the top of the axle tube to the underside of the frame rail inboard of the rubber bump stop. For 2WD models the distance should be 8.2" +/- 1/2". For 4WD models the distance should be 9.2" +/- 1/2" The quick way to measure for the front is to measure straight up from the canter of the wheel/axle to the bottom edge of the flare. A stock ride height should measure 17-1/2 inches. (Newer XJs with the Up Country suspension option are at 18-1/2, but the older XJ FSM doesn't make any mention of an optional ride height.) I've never quite pinned down what the "stock" height is for an MJ using the hub-to-flare method. Based on some quick measurements of a couple of MJs that may or may not have been sagged, I think it's around 21-1/2 inches, but I think it would be great if someone would jack up an MJ from the chassis until the height from the axle to the frame is exactly 9.2" and then measure from the hub center to the flare. I think I would be very disappointed if I spent the money for new springs, with assurances that they are NOT lift springs, and I ended up any higher than stock height. I don't know why spring makers can't figure that out. A friend of mine down the road had a reputable local spring shop rebuild his MJ springs, both of which had broken leaves. My friend used the truck to haul firewood, so he also had an extra leaf added to each spring for load capacity, but he specified that he didn't want lift. He got about 4 inches of lift. He got a LOT of extra carrying capacity, but the truck looked stupid IMHO. My friend was able to convince himself that he liked it, but I would have been exceedingly upset.

I've been trying to stay out of this topic but, since it is now deteriorating, I'll just chime in with the official Olde Pharte's pouint of view, which is: WHY does anyone think that larger injectors are in any way an "upgrade"? The factory engineers size the injectors as they do for a reason (probably more than one reason). True, they are designing for the "average" range of drivers and driving conditions, but most of us never exceed those parameters anyway. How could the factory injectors NOT provide enough fuel flow, in anything other than a full race engine on a track? The smallest factory injectors were the Renix injectors ('87 - '90), which were rated (IIRC) for 19.2 pounds per hour. That's PER INJECTOR. So if you were to find a way to run those injectors to wide open and 100% duty cycle, each injector would provide 19.2 pounds of fuel per hour. The 4.0L is a 4-cycle engine, so for each revolution there are three intake events and three exhaust events. At 5,000 RPM, which is the practical redline for the 4.0L engine, in one minute we have 15,000 injector squirts. In one hour, we have 15,000 x 60 squirts, which is 900,000 squirts. If EACH injector can provide 19.2 pounds per hour, and there are six injectors working, that means a theoretical 115.2 pounds of fuel per hour. Gasoline has a density of approximately 6 pounds per gallon. 115.2 divided by 6 is 19.2 gallons per hour. In rough terms, that means an entire tank of gas every hour. Does ANYONE use anywhere near that much gas? Let's say you cruise at 75 MPH and get 15 MPG. 75 MPH means in one hour you travel 75 miles, and at 15 MPG that means in that hour you burn 5 gallons of gas, or 30 pounds of fuel per hour. There are six injectors working, so each injector only has to flow 5 pounds per hour. If they are rated to flow 19.2 pounds per hour -- I think there's enough "overhead" flow capacity to handle those short intervals where you accelerate to 4,000 or 4,500 RPM as you go through the gears. I dunno. I'm simply puzzled. A number of years ago a professional drag racer named Bob Salemi (an early member of NAXJA) built a pro race Comanche with a very modified engine. When he put it on the dyno for pre-season testing, it ran like crap. He tried (almost) everything, and it kept running like crap. Finally, the dyno guy checked the air-fuel mixture and suggested SMALLER injectors. BINGO! That was the answer. Remember: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

^^^ Agreed.

Several years ago I was told by one of the better mechanics at my Jeep dealership (which is an old-line Jeep dealer, not a Chrysler or Dodge dealer that woke up one day also selling Jeeps) that the difference between the NV 3500 and the NV3550 is that one has an integral bell housing and the other has a separate bell housing. Unfortunately, I don't remember which is which, nor have I had any way to verify or contradict that information.

If there's an automotive paint store near you and the truck is driving, take it to the paint store. They can match the paint by scanning it with some kind or magic meter thingie. They can also make up aerosol can's with the custom color if you don't want to mess with compressors and spray guns.

Remove the cable holder from the transfer case and install the sender in its place.

You might try Pennzoil Synchromesh in the yellow bottles. Has anyone actually tried it? I plan to but have not done so, but I have seen favorable reports and I haven't read anything negative about it.

Not factory. Bubba.

Cherokee ==> floor shift. I can't think of any way changing the steering column on an XJ could possibly affect the transmission shifting.

And you would be wrong. The AMC Model 20 is a VERY strong axle and differential -- equal to or possibly stronger than the Dana 44. The weakness in CJs was that the outer hubs were not forged as an integral part of the axle shafts, the shafts had a tapered spline and the hubs were then bolted on. Under sufficient torque, the splines would strip and you'd be left with a free-wheeling hub. The Model 20 used in the 84-86 XJ and the 86 MJ used one-piece shafts with the hubs being an integral part of the axle. It's VERY difficult to break one of those. The biggest disadvantage is that it's physically large, which affects ground clearance. Second, there's not nearly as much aftermarket support for the AMC 20 as there is for the D44.