Eagle

Bad ground. When you turn on the lights, the filament doesn't have a good ground so it seeks one by back-feeding through the other circuit. Either clean up the grounds for the taillights, or replace the socket.

Tell me again why computer controlled EVERYTHING is such a great idea ... http://www.juno-news.com/news/read/article/the_associated_press-jeep_recalling_206668_cherokee_suvs_for_wiper_defe-ap Static electricity from the wiper blades on dry glass can fubar the wipers? That's NUTS! What's wrong with a motor and a switch? It's been working for nearly fifty years. Haven't automotive engineers ever heard, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"?

Not even an inch. 6/10s of an inch -- 28.3" diameter vs. 28.9" diameter. But what really counts is revolutions per mile. From data I compiled many years ago, a 225/75-15 turns 730 revolutions per mile, and a 235/75-15 turns 722 revolutions per mile. That's a difference of 1.1 percent. In real world application, if a 225/75-15 with 3.55 gears turns 2100 RPM at 65 MPH in 5th gear, a 235/75-15 will turn 2077 RPM at 65 MPH. You'll never notice the difference.

Not sure, but I think you need to burp it more.

That will put the height of the output basically exactly the same as it is now -- you're just adding a few feet of length. Are you counting on the bend over the axle to act like the inverse of a plumbing trap and create an air pocket to stop water from getting in? If the water is deep enough to be higher than that bend, and thus deep enough to do bad things to the engine, I don't think it will make any difference.

"225" is not a tire size. It's only one part of the size. You also need to know the profile ratio (the 70, 75, xx) part, and the rim size. Since you have an MJ, I guess we can live dangerously and assume that you have 15" rims. But those other two digits make a big difference. The largest factory tire size offered on XJ and MJs was a 225/75R15. That's what came on my 2000 XJ Sport. My wife's 2000 XJ Classic came with 16" rims. The factory tire size was 225/70R16. Note the change to a 70-series. The actual tire size, in diameter and in revolutions per mile, is the same as the 225/75R15. Yes, the 225/75-15s with 3.55 gears and a 5-speed makes a good combination. It's what the factory should have used, IMHO. The ridiculous gearing the factory used with the 5-speeds was chosen to beat some arbitrary fuel economy test. If you think about it, the factory combination has the engine turning over at 1821 RPMs at 65 MPH. That's well below the torque peak of the engine, and best economy is produced at the torque peak. With my '88 XJ 5-speed, I found the gas mileage didn't suffer if I "forgot" 5th gear entirely, and just drove on the highway in 4th. (Maximum legal speed around here is 65, and many highways through and around the cities it's 55. I wouldn't try the same experiment where the speed limit is 70 or 75. It wouldn't hurt anything, but I think that's about where the fuel mileage would start to drop off.)

:yes: Well, mine are still round, so I think you got cheated. Yes, I do like the original Wranglers. But -- again, not available in a 225/70R16 so I have to look for alternatives. Leaning more and more toward the Cooper Discoverer AT/3. I've had good luck with Coopers in the past.

Tee-hee!

To me, those are extremely offensive. They're mocking the flag. I'm sure they don't see it that way, but that's how I see it.

Just ... WOW! She be a keeper.

Not offered in 225/70R16. And the crap tires with the cracked sidewalls are Bridgestone Duellers. A friend had a similar issue with premature cracking of sidewalls on a set of Firestones a few years ago. I think I'll pass on them.

Not according to the Flag Code.

Not available in 225/70R16. Waffling between the AT/3 and the H/T

What the heck is the ATP? It's not even shown on Cooper's web site.

With a "hack-n-tap" any rebuild kit will work. The hack-n-tap kit is nothing but an output slip joint that terminates in a flange instead of a yoke, and it has a hole in the center so it can be bolted to the tailshaft. The transfer case itself is completely untouched (except for cutting the tip off the tailshaft).

The tires offered by the local shop (in the correct size) are: Michelin LTX Kumho KR-21 Cooper Starline Discount club has Michelin LT/2. Their price will be almost exactly the same as the local guy wants for the LTXs.

Simple. All it would take is one "Pinto Kid" to cost Jeep gazillions of bucks. If the aftermarket hitches pose a danger of puncturing the gas tank and starting a fire (or causing an explosion), the downside for Chrysler/Jeep is almost infinite. The cost of replacing a few trailer hitches will be peanuts compared to what one Pinto Kid lawsuit would cost them. Homework assignment: http://users.wfu.edu/palmitar/Law&Valuation/Papers/1999/Leggett-pinto.html http://philosophia.uncg.edu/phi361-metivier/module-2-why-does-business-need-ethics/case-the-ford-pinto/ There will be a quiz on Friday ...

I think it's disgraceful. The French have managed to give each of them TWO medals already, and as far as I can tell nobody in Washington is even talking about giving them medals. What's that saying again? Oh, yeah: "I love my country, but I hate my government."

I want to keep it original, and not have to mess with the speedometer gear. And don't forget it's 16-inch wheels. The 15-inch equivalent is 225/75-15 -- I have plenty of 15" Jeep rims around, but ... I want to keep it original.

Doing some brake work on my late wife's 2000 XJ Classic and I discovered to my dismay that the sidewalls of the tires are all deteriorated with a network of micro-cracks. The tires gotta go. It couldn't happen at a worse time -- my daughter (who is -- or was -- attending college in Chile) just tried to commit suicide -- again -- so I'm paying for institutions and shrinks, on top of losing her tuition for the uncompleted year of study. I'm looking for decent tires that will be good for mostly pavement driving, including snow. No hard-core off-roading -- I still have my '88 for that. Money is definitely an object, and I'm not finding a lot in my shopping around. To make it worse, I need five tires, because the Classic with tow package came with a full-size spare. Well-respected local tire shop offered me Michelin LTX, Kumho something-or-other, and a Cooper I've never heard of. Prices weren't outrageous, but for me at the moment they were sobering. Local warehouse club also has the Michelin LTX, along with another Michelin (LT/2, I think?), and a BFG Long Trail Touring. The BFG's are the most affordable of the bunch, but I haven't heard or read anything about them. And then Wal-Mart has a tire I've never heard of (and can't remember the name of) in the right size for about $99 per tire. One reason the selection is so limited is that the 2000 XJ Classic takes a 226/70R16 tire. A lot of manufacturers don't offer that size, either not at all or not in any of the tires I'd be interested in. Has anyone had any experience with the Michelin or the Kumho, or the BFG Long Trail? I need to find out if the local dealer can get them, but one that interests me is the Cooper Discoverer H/T. It's available in the size I need. Has anyone had any experience with that one?

As former military, I DO find it offensive. I think your intentions are good, but what you are discussing is improper in the extreme. I suggest you Google up the U.S. Flag Code and read it.

True Trac is best, but it's about 50% more expensive than a Dana Trac-Lok, which is what the factory used for limited slips. Since most of your driving is on pavement, a lunchbox locker is not the optimal solution. If you can afford the True Trac, go for it. I have one and it's excellent. I also have Trac-Loks in three XJs and an MJ and it gets the job done, too.

The one I posted awhile back didn't have any notes. It was a different photo of the same MJ distribution block that's shown in the new photo.

You don't need a build sheet -- you have it all right there. Here's something for you to play with: Being a desert vehicle with no rust, the problem with your paint is that the clear coat has burned. Underneath that white-ish mess, the color coat is probably completely intact. Since otherwise you would probably be repainting it anyway in a restoration, pick a panel and try wet sanding it to remove the deteriorated clear coat but leave the color. Then apply a new coat of clear.

Agreed. As for caster angle: 1. It's almost impossible for MORE positive caster to cause death wobble. Increasing caster (within specs) usually helps. 2. Adding a 4" lift would decrease caster, not increase it. If you had 9 degrees after the lift, your caster was probably already out of spec before the lift.