Eagle

Yes. Silicone can co-exist with DOT-3 or DOT-4 brake fluid, but they don't mix and if you don't get rid of the old stuff you don't get the benefits of using silicone. By the way, it's expensive -- get ready for sticker shock. Fortunately, the clutch doesn't take a lot. As 87MJTIM noted, it sounds like to also need a slave cylinder.

The 2000 XJ FSM calls for DOT-3 brake fluid, or Mopar brake fluid. That said, there are hydraulic fluids that are formulated specifically for clutches, and I have a can on my shelf. However, because of the possibility that clutch master cylinder leakage will destroy the fuse box, I use DOT-5 silicone brake fluid in the clutch (as well as in the brakes, but that's for other reasons).

A fusible link IS a piece of wire. That's why it's called a "fusible link," not a "fuse."

Brake master cylinder gets brake fluid. The basic stuff is DOT-3. Better is rated DOT-4, which is probably synthetic. Both of those will destroy paint instantly upon contact, so be careful. Best (IMHO -- others disagree) is DOT-5 rated silicone brake fluid. It's more expensive, it doesn't attract moisture (water) like DOT-3 and DOT-4 fluids do, and doesn't harm paint. Clutch master cylinder takes hydraulic clutch fluid. You probably won't find that at Wal-Mart but you should find it at Auto Zone, Advance, or any decent auto parts store. Power steering takes power steering fluid. In an emergency you can use ATF, but it's better to use the stuff that's formulated for the power steering. If your clutch master cylinder is losing fluid, check your fuse panel under the dash. That's where the leaks usually drip, and the hydraulic fluid corrodes the contacts very quickly. That's why I prefer to use silicone in the clutch -- it's non-corrosive.

A "burned wire" sounds a lot to me like a fusible link. Someone on here not too long ago posted a link to the 1988 electrical manual, which has all the wiring diagrams. That's what you need.

What are you planning to tow? With trailer brakes? Where are you going to find a load equalizing hitch for an MJ? That was a requirement for heavy towing with the MJ.

Yes, it sure was. Now, if I could just remember which thread ... Apologies.

Another factor is that lift moves the front wheels toward the back of the wheel opening, because the control arms swind down, reducing the horizontal distance from the frame pockets. You may need to add some shims to get the caster angle back where it's supposed to be. have you had an alignment done?

And that would be true ... IF the wheels were perfectly straight ahead when you took the measurements, AND if the wheels are aligned with exactly zero toe.. In reality, it's practically impossible to get them exactly

Fusible link?

Side-to-side. Yes, you have a lift. As Rockfrog explained, the front end geometry is such that, as you lift the chassis away from the axle, the axle rotates around the track bar and gets pulled off center. The fix is to buy an adjustable track bar.

Do you have a lift? Is the front axle centered under the truck?

When you get the new cap (and now), be sure not to overfill that plastic tank, or you'll blow it up. We cal that a "closed" system because there is nowhere for expanding coolant to go -- no overflow catch tank/bottle. Expansion of hot coolant is taken care of by compressing air in that bottle. It should be filled halfway when cold -- no more.

You may still have air trapped in the system. You have an '89. That plastic coolant bottle on the firewall is not an overflow catch bottle, it's part of the pressurized cooling system. That crappy plastic cap is the pressure cap. If it won't hold pressure, you have a double problem. First, "anti-freeze" not only protects against freezing, it also raises the boiling temperature of the coolant. At sea level, the boiling point of plain water is 212 degrees F. The boiling point for a 50/50 anti-freeze mix is 223 degrees F. at sea level. The boiling point goes down as elevation increases, but I don't remember by how much. So by running plain water, you're allowing the system to reach a boil 11 degrees earlier than if you ran 50/50 anti-freeze. Second, pressure also acts to raise the boiling point. If the pressure cap can't hold pressure, then you're stuck with 212 degrees as your maximum temperature before it boils. If there's any air trapped in the system, it will be "burped" out rather violently. I've always had to "burp" my XJs and MJs with the closed system. The way I do it is to fill the system, then start the engine with the cap off the bottle. Let it idle for a few minutes, until it starts to boil. (Stand away from the bottle when doing this or you WILL get scalded.) When it boils, shut off the engine. As soon as the boiling subsides and the system starts to pull coolant (water) back out of the bottle, add coolant (water) to keep the level at the halfway point. When it settles down completely, double check that the bottle is filled to the mark (halfway), then start the engine and repeat. I usually have to go through three to five cycles to get the majority of the air out.

Looks like at Autozone you have to go with a universal for oil pressure. The one on the left is for up to 80 psi, the one on the right is for 100 psi. But ... we don't know if the ohm range is the same as the factory unit. http://www.autozone.com/gauges-and-gauge-accessories/gauge-sender?filterByKeyWord=oil+pressure+sender&fromString=search Temperature: This one is named "switch," but it says it's for gauges: http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/temperature-switch/jeep/comanche-4wd/1988/6-cylinders-m-4-0l-fi Napa: Temperature: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Temp-Sender-Switch-Gauge/_/R-ECHTS6053_0193389554 Couldn't find a sender for oil pressure

True. I never think about the fuse because I've never had a dash light fuse go out on me, but I have had the rheostat in the headlight switch go bad a few times.

The headlight switch rotates to dim the dash (gauge) lights. I don't remember which way, but all the way in one direction turns them off completely. If they're all out I would look to that, or consider a bad headlight switch, because there are something like 6 or 8 individual bulbs in there, and it would be extremely unlikely they'd all be burned out at once.

79 FSJ Cherokee 84 XJ Wagoneer 86 XJ 86 MJ 86 MJ 86 XJ 87 XJ 87 MJ 88 XJ 88 MJ 88 MJ 89 XJ 89 MJ 00 XJ 00 XJ 01 XJ That's 16. Seems like there should be at least one more in there, but the memory is the first thang that goes. What were we discussing?

They also don't have clutches, so you don't have to worry about friction modifier.

Where are you looking?

Congratulations! She's getting a winner -- I hope you are, too.

I have a Truetrac in the red '88 shortbed. I love it. It provides a much more positive lock than the factory Trac-Lok. I drove Old Red through two New England winters and almost never had to use 4WD -- even without putting weight in the bed.

Assembly #19 in the parts diagram is the slave cylinder. The bleed screw is not serviced as a separate part, so it doesn't have a part number. It's the line coming off the top of the slave cylinder.

My late wife and I adopted her granddaughter from Chile. My daughter has dual citizenship, and is currently enrolled in college in Chile. Almost two years ago, in Santiago, Chile, I bought a new MacBook for my daughter, who was starting college at the time. We bought it at an Apple store in Santiago, and I paid an extra $200 or $300 for the full Microsoft Office suite. My daughter is home for a visit on semester break (remember, it's winter down there), and she just informed me that she never received the Microsoft Office that we paid for. I'm sure the receipt is long gone, and I wouldn't expect the store to believe we went almost two years without noticing that we hadn't received a $300 chunk of the purchase. So I don't expect to be able to send her back to the store and get a new copy of the CD (or DVD). Probably my best alternative is to find some kind person who qualifies for an academic discount to buy me a new copy. Doesn't have to be the absolute latest and greatest -- one version back would be fine -- as long as it has the current (hateful) interface. Does anyone have a copy they'd be interested in selling? Or is anyone a student with access to a killer deal? Gotta move quick -- she's in the U.S. on semester break and will fly back to Chile on July 28th.

Yes, you have to use the flywheel and CPS that correspond to the wiring and computer system in the vehicle. If you still have the Renix ECU, you have to use the original flywheel and CPS.