Eagle

Side-to-side. Yes, you have a lift. As Rockfrog explained, the front end geometry is such that, as you lift the chassis away from the axle, the axle rotates around the track bar and gets pulled off center. The fix is to buy an adjustable track bar.

Do you have a lift? Is the front axle centered under the truck?

When you get the new cap (and now), be sure not to overfill that plastic tank, or you'll blow it up. We cal that a "closed" system because there is nowhere for expanding coolant to go -- no overflow catch tank/bottle. Expansion of hot coolant is taken care of by compressing air in that bottle. It should be filled halfway when cold -- no more.

You may still have air trapped in the system. You have an '89. That plastic coolant bottle on the firewall is not an overflow catch bottle, it's part of the pressurized cooling system. That crappy plastic cap is the pressure cap. If it won't hold pressure, you have a double problem. First, "anti-freeze" not only protects against freezing, it also raises the boiling temperature of the coolant. At sea level, the boiling point of plain water is 212 degrees F. The boiling point for a 50/50 anti-freeze mix is 223 degrees F. at sea level. The boiling point goes down as elevation increases, but I don't remember by how much. So by running plain water, you're allowing the system to reach a boil 11 degrees earlier than if you ran 50/50 anti-freeze. Second, pressure also acts to raise the boiling point. If the pressure cap can't hold pressure, then you're stuck with 212 degrees as your maximum temperature before it boils. If there's any air trapped in the system, it will be "burped" out rather violently. I've always had to "burp" my XJs and MJs with the closed system. The way I do it is to fill the system, then start the engine with the cap off the bottle. Let it idle for a few minutes, until it starts to boil. (Stand away from the bottle when doing this or you WILL get scalded.) When it boils, shut off the engine. As soon as the boiling subsides and the system starts to pull coolant (water) back out of the bottle, add coolant (water) to keep the level at the halfway point. When it settles down completely, double check that the bottle is filled to the mark (halfway), then start the engine and repeat. I usually have to go through three to five cycles to get the majority of the air out.

Looks like at Autozone you have to go with a universal for oil pressure. The one on the left is for up to 80 psi, the one on the right is for 100 psi. But ... we don't know if the ohm range is the same as the factory unit. http://www.autozone.com/gauges-and-gauge-accessories/gauge-sender?filterByKeyWord=oil+pressure+sender&fromString=search Temperature: This one is named "switch," but it says it's for gauges: http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/temperature-switch/jeep/comanche-4wd/1988/6-cylinders-m-4-0l-fi Napa: Temperature: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Temp-Sender-Switch-Gauge/_/R-ECHTS6053_0193389554 Couldn't find a sender for oil pressure

True. I never think about the fuse because I've never had a dash light fuse go out on me, but I have had the rheostat in the headlight switch go bad a few times.

The headlight switch rotates to dim the dash (gauge) lights. I don't remember which way, but all the way in one direction turns them off completely. If they're all out I would look to that, or consider a bad headlight switch, because there are something like 6 or 8 individual bulbs in there, and it would be extremely unlikely they'd all be burned out at once.

79 FSJ Cherokee 84 XJ Wagoneer 86 XJ 86 MJ 86 MJ 86 XJ 87 XJ 87 MJ 88 XJ 88 MJ 88 MJ 89 XJ 89 MJ 00 XJ 00 XJ 01 XJ That's 16. Seems like there should be at least one more in there, but the memory is the first thang that goes. What were we discussing?

They also don't have clutches, so you don't have to worry about friction modifier.

Where are you looking?

Congratulations! She's getting a winner -- I hope you are, too.

I have a Truetrac in the red '88 shortbed. I love it. It provides a much more positive lock than the factory Trac-Lok. I drove Old Red through two New England winters and almost never had to use 4WD -- even without putting weight in the bed.

Assembly #19 in the parts diagram is the slave cylinder. The bleed screw is not serviced as a separate part, so it doesn't have a part number. It's the line coming off the top of the slave cylinder.

My late wife and I adopted her granddaughter from Chile. My daughter has dual citizenship, and is currently enrolled in college in Chile. Almost two years ago, in Santiago, Chile, I bought a new MacBook for my daughter, who was starting college at the time. We bought it at an Apple store in Santiago, and I paid an extra $200 or $300 for the full Microsoft Office suite. My daughter is home for a visit on semester break (remember, it's winter down there), and she just informed me that she never received the Microsoft Office that we paid for. I'm sure the receipt is long gone, and I wouldn't expect the store to believe we went almost two years without noticing that we hadn't received a $300 chunk of the purchase. So I don't expect to be able to send her back to the store and get a new copy of the CD (or DVD). Probably my best alternative is to find some kind person who qualifies for an academic discount to buy me a new copy. Doesn't have to be the absolute latest and greatest -- one version back would be fine -- as long as it has the current (hateful) interface. Does anyone have a copy they'd be interested in selling? Or is anyone a student with access to a killer deal? Gotta move quick -- she's in the U.S. on semester break and will fly back to Chile on July 28th.

Yes, you have to use the flywheel and CPS that correspond to the wiring and computer system in the vehicle. If you still have the Renix ECU, you have to use the original flywheel and CPS.

How old is your oxygen sensor?

He didn't say, and he and his family are off on a camping vacation so I can't ask him. Cruiser? Paging Cruiser ...

A tech friend who used to work in a Jeep dealership once told me that when they replaced a seal and reused the crush sleeve they torqued the pinion nut to 250 foot pounds and called it good.

The set in my '88 Cherokee have well over 100,000 miles on them. No problems so far ...

You can't measure toe with the vehicle on jack stands, because things will change when the weight is on the tires and supported by the ball joints. Any adjustment you do on jack stands won't be accurate. You do it on flat, level ground with the wheels on the ground. Once you make an adjustment, you then roll the vehicle straight back a car length or two, then back to the original point and measure again. This is because the tire contact patch won't turn when you make the adjustment, resulting in the tie rod ends being under stress rather than in a somewhat neutral position. Rolling back and forth allows the tire contact patch to coincide with the new alignment.

You're supposed to use a new nut every time you have the yoke off anyway. Are you reusing the old crush sleeve or installing a new one with the new seal?

Aha! According to Advance Adapters, that number is for an NV 3550 transmission from a 2000 TJ http://www.advanceadapters.com/downloads/273510AA.pdf

5210 4388AA appears to be a proper Jeep part number sequence, but I can't find it in any of my Jeep parts manuals.

I see a problem right there. You don't understand wheel alignment. It is not possible for the passenger tire to toe out -- a little or a lot. The toe specification is a measure of the distance between the two tires, and it has nothing to do with the vehicle body, centerline, or side. The theoretical ideal is zero toe. If the fronts of the tires are farther apart than the rears, they are toed out. If the rears are father apart than the fronts, they are toed in. This is measured directly between the tires, or by high-priced equipment that takes angle measurements and computes the toe (in or out). Zero is ideal, but that means zero when driving down the road with the friction between the tires and the road pushing against all the components of the front end, each of which has some minimal amount of slop. To allow for that, we build in a small amount of toe-in when doing a static alignment, figuring that the road friction will take up the slop and the result will be close to zero on the road. Doing a shade-tree, tape measure alignment, we typically look for 1/16" to 1/8" of toe-IN -- the distance between the fronts of the tires should be less than the distance between the rears. You adjust the toe-in to spec, then move the vehicle until it's moving straight forward and back. Then if the steering wheel isn't centered, you adjust the drag link to center the wheel. Toe rarely causes pulling, because toe is a symmetrical setting. Pull is caused by uneven tire pressure, mismatched tires, sagging springs, caster, or camber. Oh -- and you absolutely cannot tell by eyeballing it if the tires are toed in or out, unless the amount is massive. The flares are not parallel to the vehicle centerline, and the flare edges are the natural visual reference. It's deceptive. You MUST measure.

But the mechanical fan doesn't have a direct, positive, mechanical connection to the pulley. The fan mounts to a housing that contains a viscous clutch. Think of it like a small torque converter, with NO lock-up. The fluid inside is formulated to get stiffer as the temperature increases, yet still allow enough slippage so that at higher engine speeds the fan isn't being driven by the engine, thus saving horsepower and increasing fuel economy. Over time, the fluid breaks down and isn't stiff enough to drive the fan fast enough at idle to pull enough air to cool the radiator. The classic symptom is overheating at stopped idle, and the temperature going back to normal as soon as the vehicle is moving. There is a way to test this, IIRC, but I don't remember what it is. Yes, the fan is turning -- it just isn't doing much work. Appearances can be deceiving.