Eagle

Quick test -- the heater blower uses resistors to control the lower speeds, but there is no resistor on the high speed setting. Try running your heater on the high setting and watch the volt meter. See if it makes any difference.

That's correct in theory. If you have about 4 gallons in a 16-gallon tank (a quarter of a tank, in other words), I would adjust it to read a little bit lower than 1/4. I prefer to have a bit of a cushion over what the tank is telling me.

I think I'm using a 13-pound cap on mine.

The heater blower uses resistors to control the speed, and resistors create draw in the electrical system. It's also possible that your blower motor itself is getting tired and drawing more current than a new one would. That said, I suspect that your alternator is dying. The parts chains like Auto Zone and Advance Auto can bench test it for you if you take it in. A regular shop can probably test it in the vehicle, but they'll charge. The chain stores will test it free, but you have to carry it in.

Can't hurt. But the line itself is still rubber -- it just has a stainless braid around it for reinforcement. Heat will still kill a stainless line. You need to make certain it's routed well clear of the exhaust manifold, and if you're going to do much dune riding you might consider wrapping it with a foil insulation of some type.

Butt weld? You don't use a flanging tool?

Too close to the exhaust manifold. Sand dunes ==> engine works hard, manifolds get very hot, slow speed, no air circulation to cool the line.

You don't need Photoshop. It's probably easier in Photoshop, if you know how to use it (which I don't), but I did my shortened version using good old Microsoft Paint (the version that was bundled with Windows XP)

Here's what the red one might look like with a shorter box:

I found this: Looks like the bed is a long bed? That makes it too long, IMHO. My late wife was from Chile. All over South America, 4-door pickups are very popular, in the small pickup lines. We rented one once for a ten-day trip around the lakes region of Chile, a few hundred miles south of Santiago. They're not "beautiful" by any stretch of the imagination, but they're also not insanely ugly, and they're not so long that you need a CDL to drive them. The box is typically about a 5-foot box -- even shorter than an MJ shortbed. Not great for hauling huge loads, but most people never use a box to capacity anyway. Another one: And then I found this:

Went looking for images of extended cab MJs outside of this forum, and I stumbled across an article that confirms my opinion that Jeep's failure to offer an extended cab was a bone-headed move that spelled doom for the Comanche line. http://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/xj-day-capsule-jeep-commanche/

That would essentially be a short AAL. How's the ride?

Adding an additional, cut-off XJ main leaf typically results in 1-1/2" of lift. An MJ leaf has a LOT more arch built in, so it will likely produce a lot more lift. 3 inches is probably as good a guess as any. Keep in mind that the MJ springs use a larger centering pin, so an MJ leaf in an XJ pack is likely to move around a bit.

The term "long block" means an engine with the head installed, but not the intake and exhaust manifolds, and not the external accessories. The basic 4.0L block will work with a Renix or Chrylser setup, but the intake ports in the head are different so using a Renix engine with a full Chrysler update will mean either settling for intake ports that don't mate -- or using a newer head, which means you're not really using the Renix long block, you're only using the short block. And then there are the differences in mounts for external accessories to be considered.

That works out to a 32x10-17 (approximately). They might work with a 3/1/2" lift but the wheel backspacing is going to be critical.

True. Ground clearance is overrated anyway ... Seriously, I wish I could afford something like that. Although back when I was actively doing off-road stuff my vision of the perfect axle for an XJ was a Dana 60. An 80 was beyond the scope of my aspirations.

Be VERY careful when buying crome-plated alloy wheels. I'm sure everyone knows how long re-chromed bumbers last -- typically about three months before the rust starts popping through. And that's on steel. Chrome plating on aluminum alloy is a lot more complex, and requires not only perfect surface preparation but also coating with a base coat of copper and then a couple of other, intermediate steps before the final layer of chrome can be applied. It's a lengthy and expensive process if done correctly. IMHO, it's unlikely that any chrome-plated Jeep 10-spoke wheels you find on the Internet will be done properly. I wouldn't waste my money, especially since chrome wasn't an OEM option anyway.

To preserve night vision during night-time, clandestine missions, silly person.

Assuming you weren't kidding wit this post, unfortunately you have some work ahead of you. You should replace every rubber part in the brake system. That means a new master cylinder, new (or rebuilt) calipers, new (or rebuilt) rear wheel cylinders, and new rubber flex hoses at the front and rear axles. I don't know what to advise if your truck still has the rear height sensing valve. I had one of those explode on me in a panic stop and mine had NOT been contaminated with any other kind of fluid. If yours has had gasoline run through it, you might feel comfortable replacing everything else and bleeding the system in the hope that the gasoline didn't spend any time in the height sensing valve. I don't know how comfortable I would be with that assumption, but I'm inherently risk-aversive.

May 2016 be a safe and Jeepful year for y'all.

What chrome? AFAIK those wheels were never offered in chrome, only with rough cast centers with gray recesses, and machined rims and spoke faces. Considering the price for alloy wheels, $129/wheel is a very good price.

I'd like to see the version with the XJ doors but with the extra extension behind the doors. That would make for a much more useful interior IMHO.

Are you asking about the crankshaft position sensor (which is what "CPS" usually indicates, or the camshaft position sensor (which is the one that's inside the distributor)?

I disagree. There are few things as reliable as a properly set up carburetor. Fuel injection may provide better fuel economy across a wider variety of operating conditions, but I have always believed that you have a better chance of limping home with a carburetor than you do with fuel injection. The '95 Chrysler injection system is pretty good, but IMHO there's a certain amount of "cool" factor to running a carburetor. The trick is deciding what carburetor, and then sizing it. If I were doing it, I'd be looking for a progressive 2-barrel, with a small primary venturi and a larger secondary venturi. (Of course, I'm not sure such a thing exists, but I think so.) Or go all-out and get a triple Weber setup ...

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