Eagle

Went looking for images of extended cab MJs outside of this forum, and I stumbled across an article that confirms my opinion that Jeep's failure to offer an extended cab was a bone-headed move that spelled doom for the Comanche line. http://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/xj-day-capsule-jeep-commanche/

That would essentially be a short AAL. How's the ride?

Adding an additional, cut-off XJ main leaf typically results in 1-1/2" of lift. An MJ leaf has a LOT more arch built in, so it will likely produce a lot more lift. 3 inches is probably as good a guess as any. Keep in mind that the MJ springs use a larger centering pin, so an MJ leaf in an XJ pack is likely to move around a bit.

The term "long block" means an engine with the head installed, but not the intake and exhaust manifolds, and not the external accessories. The basic 4.0L block will work with a Renix or Chrylser setup, but the intake ports in the head are different so using a Renix engine with a full Chrysler update will mean either settling for intake ports that don't mate -- or using a newer head, which means you're not really using the Renix long block, you're only using the short block. And then there are the differences in mounts for external accessories to be considered.

That works out to a 32x10-17 (approximately). They might work with a 3/1/2" lift but the wheel backspacing is going to be critical.

True. Ground clearance is overrated anyway ... Seriously, I wish I could afford something like that. Although back when I was actively doing off-road stuff my vision of the perfect axle for an XJ was a Dana 60. An 80 was beyond the scope of my aspirations.

Be VERY careful when buying crome-plated alloy wheels. I'm sure everyone knows how long re-chromed bumbers last -- typically about three months before the rust starts popping through. And that's on steel. Chrome plating on aluminum alloy is a lot more complex, and requires not only perfect surface preparation but also coating with a base coat of copper and then a couple of other, intermediate steps before the final layer of chrome can be applied. It's a lengthy and expensive process if done correctly. IMHO, it's unlikely that any chrome-plated Jeep 10-spoke wheels you find on the Internet will be done properly. I wouldn't waste my money, especially since chrome wasn't an OEM option anyway.

To preserve night vision during night-time, clandestine missions, silly person.

Assuming you weren't kidding wit this post, unfortunately you have some work ahead of you. You should replace every rubber part in the brake system. That means a new master cylinder, new (or rebuilt) calipers, new (or rebuilt) rear wheel cylinders, and new rubber flex hoses at the front and rear axles. I don't know what to advise if your truck still has the rear height sensing valve. I had one of those explode on me in a panic stop and mine had NOT been contaminated with any other kind of fluid. If yours has had gasoline run through it, you might feel comfortable replacing everything else and bleeding the system in the hope that the gasoline didn't spend any time in the height sensing valve. I don't know how comfortable I would be with that assumption, but I'm inherently risk-aversive.

May 2016 be a safe and Jeepful year for y'all.

What chrome? AFAIK those wheels were never offered in chrome, only with rough cast centers with gray recesses, and machined rims and spoke faces. Considering the price for alloy wheels, $129/wheel is a very good price.

I'd like to see the version with the XJ doors but with the extra extension behind the doors. That would make for a much more useful interior IMHO.

Are you asking about the crankshaft position sensor (which is what "CPS" usually indicates, or the camshaft position sensor (which is the one that's inside the distributor)?

I disagree. There are few things as reliable as a properly set up carburetor. Fuel injection may provide better fuel economy across a wider variety of operating conditions, but I have always believed that you have a better chance of limping home with a carburetor than you do with fuel injection. The '95 Chrysler injection system is pretty good, but IMHO there's a certain amount of "cool" factor to running a carburetor. The trick is deciding what carburetor, and then sizing it. If I were doing it, I'd be looking for a progressive 2-barrel, with a small primary venturi and a larger secondary venturi. (Of course, I'm not sure such a thing exists, but I think so.) Or go all-out and get a triple Weber setup ...

Trim level

Anyone who has been messing with cars (and trucks) for more than a couple of years has probably done that at least once. You lived through it, and now you know not to do it again. Happy New Year!

I have a set of four of what I call "honeycomb" Cherokee alloy wheels (I've also seen them called the "lace" design), but I only have one of the center caps. Not sure if what I have is even the correct center -- it's black, with the word "JEEP" inside a ring that's about 1/4 of an inch wide. The wheels were originally gold, but have been repainted silver/aluminum. Does anyone have a set of wheel centers that will fit these wheels?

16? That's an unusual size for an almost stock MJ tire. What are you running for wheels?

Yep. And those rigs had a special version of the differential made by a company I used to work for. They also have a special version of the transfer case.

May your Jeeps always keep the rubber side down.

Guess not.

What do I win if I tell you? (Yes, I do know. There are a lot of them around and they have diesel engines.)

He still has his truck with a clean title, and the damage is being repaired. That's what counts. Just remember that you can go to a body shop of YOUR choice. And if the repair cost comes to more once the shop gets into it, the insurance company is still on the hook. Many years ago I had a full-zize Cherokee with a snow plow. Doing a driveway, I was stopped at the side of the road, Jeep was "state highway orange" in color, and I had a strobe on the roof. Teen-age girl in her mother's brand new XJ came tearing down the road, much too fast for snowy, slushy conditions, and slide into my left rear quarter panel. No question of fault. Her insurance said they'd pay. I took my truck to the shop my family had used for a couple of generations. They found a couple of things the adjuster had missed, called the adjuster, he agreed and gave them a go-ahead. Right at the end, they realized that the new rear quarter panel had a different opening for the gas filler. The old style was just a round hole for a plain, round gas cap. The new one (all that was available) was for the Grand Wagoneer style, which had a larger cap and a trim ring around the opening. The adjuster balked at paying for the extra parts to finish out the gas filler because it was an "upgrade." I reminded him that (1) it wasn't my idea to have his client run into the back of my Jeep, and (2) she had rear ended me and all I asked for was to have my Jeep repaired. I basically asked him if he really wanted me to visit a neurologist to see if I had any whiplash injury from the accident. He authorized the new parts.

I've been running one in my '88 Cherokee for fifteen years. I'm basically at sea level -- you will NOT see any difference in performance, but if you drive gently you will see an improvement in gas mileage. All the high altitude CPS does is allow the timing to advance a bit farther. But when you drive peddle to the metal, the engine is always at the point of detonation and the knock sensor is controlling how far the timing can advance -- so under heavy load or heavy acceleration, the knock sensor overrides the CPS and doesn't allow that extra 2 degrees of ignition advance to kick in. Where it does become operative is at cruise throttle.

Exactly as Gogmorgo wrote: It depends. I had a Trailmaster 4" lift that used AALs in the rear. Rancho has a full-length (sort of) for the XJ and MJ that gives about 1-1/2" when installed in an MJ. Keep in mind that the more lift you get from an AAL, the stiffer the ride. Your ideal is probably to combine a modest AAL with longer shackles to make up the total of 3-1/2".