Eagle

Ummm ... no, the lines do not line up perfectly, because the one that lines up with the rear outlet on the ZJ proportioning valve is the emergency bypass line on the MJ. The MJ line that actually supplies the rear brakes under normal operation is the line coming out of the "nose." Of course, if you toss both the old MJ lines and make up a new one from front to back, that doesn't matter.

Even a blind squirrel finds an acorn once in awhile. :) Glad you finally found the problem. Things like that can drive you nuts.

Always begin with simple things. When you say the hazards light up but don't flash -- do the actual rear lights light up, or are you just looking at the indicator on the dashboard? Remember, the taillight bulbs have two filaments, a lower power one for tails and a brighter one for brakes, turns, and hazards. I have seen Jeeps in which all the brake light filaments were burned out but the taillights worked. It's not common, but it is possible.

Where are you located? It's the middle of September and we're coming into Winter. The electric fan is a secondary, auxiliary fan. It wasn't even provided on vehicles that didn't have air conditioning and/or the trailer tow prep package. Unless your radiator is in pretty bad shape, I think you'll be fine, at least until the hot part of the summer. Just watch your temperature gauge (which you should be doing anyway).

correct eagle the spring and stem inside has been replaced with zj ones for correct fluid pressure for the disk brake and don't think its clogged i have fluid going to the front just not the rear might be a clogged line trying to narrow it down Look again at that photo of the cross-sectioned XJ proportioning valve. The front circuit is completely independent of the rear. The fact that you have fluid to the front doesn't tell you anything. Did you replace the rear flex hose, or is it the original 25+ year old hose?

I have tried removing the bleeder screws and even the disconnected the brake line itself from the caliper to see if it will gravity bleed itself but still nothing Did you try from the prop valve itself? might be clogged... Good point. If you look at the cut-away of the XJ proportioning valve in my photo, there's a plunger inside with a spring around it and a rubber washer or cup on the end inside the body of the valve. Some XJ guys remove that cup because it has a tendency to get clogged and causes the rear brakes to stop working. You should not remove it if used in an MJ, because removing it defeats the proportioning function, but cleaning it and ensuring that the plunger moves freely might help. However, I believe Newton posted that he's using an XJ valve body with ZJ internals. I'm not sure what tat means, but it seems to imply that the thing has been opened up and that the plunger should be clean.

The way I was taught to do it is for the helper to pump the brakes SLOWLY two or three times, then while the peddle is UP you open the bleeder and the helper depresses the peddle SLOWLY, and holds it down until you have closed the bleeder. Then repeat, until you get clear brake fluid and no bubbles from the bleeder. If the peddle is held down when you open the bleeder, then when the peddle is released it's going to suck air in through the bleeder. You're just fighting yourself. And the helper has to pump the peddle slowly, because rapid pumping just aerates the fluid.

Okay, exactly how are you bleeding the rear brakes?

No Rangers or S-10s close enough in size?

Wait a minute ... Newton, didn't you post that you replaced the MJ front distribution block with an XJ proportioning valve? The MJ unit has two lines running to the rear, one to the height sensing valve and the other to an emergency bypass circuit. The XJ proportioning valve only has one line to the rear. If you still have the height sensing valve in the rear, that's your problem. You need to run the one line from the front directly to the flex hose at the rear axle.

The instructions for bleeding the system with the height sensing valve have been posted here multiple times.

Remember the Jeep engines use hydraulic valve lifters. They need oil pressure to pump up -- until the pressure normalizes, the lifters may be partially collapsed, which results in lifter noise.

The Ford axle also involves adapting the pinion yoke. Using a 97+ XJ axle doesn't involve any spacers or yoke adapters, it only involves relocating the spring perches.

Jeep wheels will bolt onto the Ford hubs. But the Ford axle is narrower and you'll need to run spacers on the rear axle if you intend to use Jeep wheels.

Damn I'll look into it more. Was hoping it'd be that easy hahahaha It is that easy. There are several previous threads discussing it. But you use the rear line out of the "nose" of the MJ splitter block, and you plug the one out of the bottom (labeled "Rear Brakeline" in your illustration). MJ Distribution Block: XJ Proportioning Valve:

Incorrect. However, it doesn't matter. Newton posted that he is using an XJ proportioning valve. I think what's more important is Hornbrod's question as to what (if anything) was done to/with the rear height-sensing valve.

The carrier break for the Dana 35 was 3.31 and down / 3.55 and higher. 1984 thru 1989 were non-C-clip axles, 1990 thru 2001 were C-clip. The non-C-clip used 10" brake drums, the C-clip used 9" drums. I don't remember what the carrier break is for the front Dana 30. [Edit] The factory parts manual lists the front axle differential break as 3.55 and down / 4.10 and up. That conveniently ignores 3.73.

I don't think a part number will help you, since the part hasn't been available through AMC/Daimler/Chrysler/Jeep/Fiat for decades, and that's not the sort of part an aftermarket maker would produce. Either weld it or start checking junkyards.

Unless you get rear-ended ...

Correct.

Tire balance. What are the alignment numbers?

The flywheel I used to have was from the 95 and never had any problems with it. Are you saying that I need to swap flywheel or do I need to go to Napa and get a 95 cps? Are you running a Renix ignition/injection system, or the later Chrysler ignition/injection system?

Duplicate thread. Closed.

Yes, you can swap the spacers for the isolators. But how is that going to solve your problem? You said 1.5" spacers will be a little sort of where you want to be. Why wouldn't 1.75" spacers be right where you want to be? If you take 1.75" and subtract 5/8 (.625) you're going to get 1.125" (1-1/8). Isn't that going in the wrong direction for what you're trying to accomplish?