Eagle

Amen, brother! Consider that my profession used to call for doing roof inspections on tall buildings ... Man, the things we do to earn a paycheck.

I wasn't going to bring that up ...

Factory spec for oil pressure is 13 psi minimum at 750 RPM idle, and something like 35 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. (Warm) What I've observed is that (with the exception of very high-miles engines) they usually idle at around 25 psi and run 50 to 55 psi at 60 to 65 MPH. That's with 10W30 oil. Heavier oil will result in higher pressures.

Pretty little airplane. What is it?

Thank you!

There was also a factory kit to delete the wires from the CPS connector through the harness to the ECU and install a new pair of wires that go directly through the firewall and to the ECU. Don't know if the kit is still available but it would be easy enough to make your own. It makes for a shorter run, which is supposed to transmit the signal better.

Yes. Place a piece of 1x3 or 2x4 lumber against the bottom edge, and tap gently on the bottom end of the piece of wood. The panel will slide up about a half inch and then pop off. Don't do it in cold weather.

Need photo.

Don't buy Rusty's for sure! Check more carefully. I had a fairly low-miles '01 Cherokee that was sagged much as you describe. I decided to fix it and get a touch of lift at the same time by taking another Cherokee leaf pack, cutting the eyes off the main leaves, and using them as AALs. Took the right side apart, set the leaves on the ground, had my new "AAL" in place, and as I was putting the other leaves back I dropped the #3 leaf on the gravel driveway ... and it snapped right in half. It obviously wasn't doing anything in there. Simple solution in my case -- I scrapped all the original leaves except the original mains, and used the entire leaf packs from the donor springs. Came out perfect. You may have a broken leaf.

The Chrysler 8.25 and the XJ/MJ Dana 44 are both approximately 1-inch longer than the dana 35. I have no idea about the AAM 830 -- I've never seen one, and don't recall ever hearing/seeing it discussed.

Yes, I guess you would. I forgot about that, to be honest.

I replaced the CPS in my '88 MJ. It was fine until about May, after which it would run for three to five miles, then quit. If I let it sit at the side of the road for 30 to 45 minutes, it would fire right up and I could drive it home. Bad part. And mine was a factory Jeep part. It happens.

I noticed that working with the full-size photos of the two cut-away valve bodies. The circuit for the front brakes is straight through, with the slider in the middle. What's wrong with just drilling out the front orifice? Easy to do if you simply remove the slider. That way, you retain the brake warning function of the factory valve.

CPS getting heat-soaked.

I did a little playing in Paint. Here are both of them, for comparison:

Elsewhere on this forum I also posted a photo of an XJ proportioning valve sliced in half. The portion serving the front brakes is exactly the same for the XJ and the MJ. The difference is that the XJ unit has a proportioning function for the rear wheels, the MJ unit does not. The MJ handles rear brake proportioning with the height/load sensing valve above the rear axle. I also eliminated the height sensing valve in an MJ. In my '88, the height sensing valve exploded in a panic stop situation. No replacement available, so I just eliminated it. The rear brakes are a bit "touchy" under certain conditions but, most of the time, the overall braking is far better than it ever was with the height sensing valve in place. The reason, of course, is that it basically eliminates the rear brakes unless the truck is heavily loaded. Found my photo of the XJ proportioning valve:

I think it's easier to go from automatic to manual than the other way. If you're going to do it, though, don't bother with the AX-4. Do an AX-5. You don't have to use 5th gear, but it's there if you want it, and you might decide to change axle ratios down the road.

The factory had two different repair kits for this problem. Which to use depended on the degree of separation at the upper hinge. A long time ago I bought one of the kits for the less severe repair, but I haven't seen it for many years. My fuzzy recollection is that the repair piece is like a strap with a "hat" in the middle, such that it straddles the hinge and gets welded to the door post above and below the hinge.

I don't understand how those help at all.

Now THAT is really funny ...

If I were to buy a Roxor, the first thing I'd do is send to India for doors and a windshield from a Thar.

I think the parent vehicle is the Thar, which is road-legal in India (if you can find a road), but probably doesn't meet U.S. safety standards so can't be imported. http://www.mahindrathar.com/index.aspx#!thar-CRDe

Thanks for torturing me again. AFAIK there is only ONE of these that ever made it to the USA ... and I don't own it. WAAAAAH!

Mate, I'm now officially calling you out for spewing bull$#!&. I special ordered TWO 2000 XJs from the factory. I went over every option available. The only axles used for the front of 2000 and 2001 XJs were low-pinion Dana 30s, and for the rear axle the choices were Dana 35 (with ABS) or Chrysler 8.25 (w/o ABS). Jeep had long since stopped offering the Dana 44 as an optional, heavy duty axle by 2000 and 2001. Special order from the factory meant you could pick from what they offered (and some combinations weren't available), it didn't mean you could buy something that Jeep didn't offer and they'd run out and get one for your vehicle. There are only two options here: Either you're trolling us, or you need to do more homework before engaging the keyboard.

They were, but they were built under license in Venezuela, not built in the USA.