jtdesigns

Sweet,,, your going to have a nice engine after its said and done,,, hell while you have it torn down swap the crank and rods for that stroker kit!!! :brows: :brows: :brows: :popcorn:

Like Pete would say.......... :D

:hijack: This is one of my fav trucks! I like that they put 4X4 under the Comanche badge, not stock, but look at it...... Its not stock!!! Something about that triple black with a touch of chrome is sexy as hell :thumbsup:

I replaced alot of the fuse connectors in my fuse box... It was pretty straight froward, but kinda a PITA deal, cause you can't pull the fuse box out very far. You have to get on your knees and stick our head under the dash. I had the help of a really small flat head screwdriver and a small hook set, to push the old connectors out. If you want, I can get you guys a picture tomorrow of what the connectors look like, so to better arm yourselves with what your dealing with. I'm not sure if you can source aftermarket connectors. I bought a whole dash harness from a member here. Then I swapped some, and cleaned some of the connectors.

Is the end of that rod chipped? Think the cam bearings are seized?? The cylinders look good.. Get to the timing chain and see if you can even nudge the cam either way... If the lossening of the main caps don't work, which I think is good advise.

Hemmits had blowers on them...(turbo to supercharger) and sucka$$ throttle by air. But your right they were super fun to drive.. We didnt have any duece 'n'1/2's but we had LMTV's which were pretty fun to drive also... And this thing was riding around our FOB in Iraq, never knew exactly wth it was but I'd loved to wheeled it! the picture doesnt do it justice...

See my post here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12826 If the link is bad, just holler, cause I'm an Internet newbie...can SEARCH all day, but other stuff, never sure if it works....If I see more than a couple parts requests, then Ill make a parts list and some pics.... The Wilwood looks like it might just work out for you.. I'm not buying another MC until this one starts leaking. That picture was taking from Summit by the way. Got any specs on the slave cylinder you went with??

I just spit a mouth full of Mountain Dew out on my desk..... Thanks alot!!! :clapping: :rotfl2:

And knowing is half the battle! :thumbsup:

So, if you come across a non-working picture I have posted let me know, cause I've moved some things around and you might get a :redX: on some. Thanks :thumbsup:

put the big one up for ya.

I knew you were still kickin! I plan on replacing the input seal. I know I can get to it alot easier just removing the input flange. I won't be replacing this thing for another few months kinda cold, and I'm broke, so I'll just make a list of things to look for till then. Still have to find a slave,, I've seen them with the lines, but I just replaced the master, and I hate to spend that much cash on the pre-bled all in one... I'm hoping the clutch line for the one I have now will fit the new slave if not I guess I'll be bending tubing..........

Eaton bought Truetrac's stock, so I'm thinking the E-locker might could be the same thing.

Looks like a bunch of walking "racks of lamb" to me... 8)

Cool, thanks, 94-up that gives me alot more lead way... Do I just pry the rear output seal out with a screwdriver, or is there a a certain tool I need to use???

Thats what Carolina Clutch (near me) carries for oem replacements, the problem is; do I go ahead and get a clutch from my year model with BA-10, or the year the AX-15 came out of, which I don't know what year the tranny did come out of...

I've seen those before... on Drahcir495's truck

I think I'm going to have to swap this ol tranny in my Jeep before to long.. I have BA-10 now, going with a AX-15.. I have a bookmark somewhere talking about the pilot bearing change, but I need to know what clutch to be researching. I'll be swapping the slave also to the external from the internal. lil info,, 89 4.o 2wd, tranny came out of XJ 2wd don't know the year though :wall: here's the swap. Also going to change the input seal, and output seals.. how do I pull/remove the rear old one????? thanks :thumbsup:

Another note,,, have someone show you how to use an edge finder.. You can do it with the tooling your using, just have to remember to subtract the radius of the tooling.. What you do is drop your Z till the tooling is about 1/4 or 6mm into the piece (off to the side of course not over your piece) slowly move your X over until you start to hit, or touch, (you'll probably hear it before you see it, just move real slow when you start to get close, no need to crash while zeroing) then stop, raise your z back up and then go until you get to center of your tooling, or half the dia. Hopefully your bridgeport will have a digital indicator then zero your X. Do the exact same thing for your Y. Now you'll be zeroed on one corner of the piece your working on. I like to zero the 1st quadrant or the left corner closest to me. That way all my dimensions will be + in the X & Y. You can zero your Z too just take it down until you start to touch, stop, then set your zero. Set your speed around 200 rpm for your zeroing. And if you want to learn CNC code,,, ummm yeah take a class and take lots of notes. I myself just use CAM programs. I draw it up and it'll write the code according to what machine your going to be running. I just can't remember all the G and M codes when I don't do it everyday. I was just introduced to Gibbs CAM and man is it BA! And get for real you know what metals you'll mostly be cutting on, so you don't have to learn all the feeds and speeds of everything.. All almost forgot.... one of the best things you can get into a habit of is getting you a precise 90* square and squaring up what ever it is your working on. Put your piece in the vise, use the square to get it true, tightening it up, face that side, get you a set of parallel bars (img shown) put the side you just faced on the bars into the vise and face the opposite side, repeat on the un-cut sides. Hope this helps you one day.

I'm sure theres some long drawn out formula that explains the relation of speed to the frequency of vibration. 53 +- 4 or 5 mph seems like the sweet spot for a bad set of tires. I bought a used set of Goodyears for my Rodeo and mounted them myself at a friends shop. I get a high frequency vibration right around 60 mph; it evens out around 65. I left the old weights on the rims, but havent had them balanced. I always think unbalanced tires when the speed is higher. I changed ever brake part on the front of a old Honda I had before I realized that I needed to change tires. That was just because I would get a pretty bad shimmy, and if I hit the brakes, it would intensify the shake until a certain lower speed was reached..

Back when I was in the barracks at Ft Stewart, we would link 4 X-boxes together for a sickening marathon of halo you've ever experienced.. 16 people running back from room to room just say "hahaha you got f#$keddddd the h#ll up" The beer, umm well drinks, flowed like a river and everybody wanted in on the action,, Man those were the days....... :chillin: I wish I had time and money to put into a new 360 and live account.. Someone should organize a C.C. Killers group or whatever. I'd read the progress for sure.

I have to disagree.. I like it it. I bet it was quited because alot of structural integrity is incorporated in the roof in uni-body vehicles to bad though, cause it looks like a fun ride.

So did you ever get in to see the original truck? http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13074

Thank you, I was hoping it may have also contributed to the blow by I am having. The truck only has 78,500 miles on it. Thank you for the information. If anything it would eliminate any blow-by,, well not eliminate but instead of the blow-by going through the ccv system it'd be pushing right into the environment. But, the VC would have to be so lose that an actual gap was present. Blow-by is caused from the air from compression/combustion cycles leaking mostly by the piston rings, or even valve seals.

The best way, I have experienced, to really test the track bar is to lift the front up by the axle and have someone turn the wheel lock to lock. Visually observe the the steering, it will causes the body to move in either direction if bad. I have real lose steering too. I think a new gear box will fix mine for sure, but going to have to wait on that one. The highspeed shimmy, I'd be willing to bet money on, is unbalanced wheels.. Do you think any water has gotten in the tires? I'm sure you'd be able to hear it sloshing around in there (if enough water to cause unbalance while spinning). Did you check to see if there any broken plys in the tires? If alinement is bad enough it will cause a shimmy, however, it will also pull to either side of the road really hard. My best advise is to have them road forced balanced then go with the steering box. The lose steering box still wouldn't cause the shimmy though. Which by the way, you can adjust, not sure which way you turn it, but if you look down on the box you will see the adjustment screw. It'll have a hex head set screw with a lock nut on it. I'm pretty sure it's been covered with-in the forum in the past. Good luck!