-
Posts
4287 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by jtdesigns
-
Sythetic Motor Oil - Crap
jtdesigns replied to HOrnbrod's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
has anyone heard you can't use synthetic oil to break in a fresh engine? -
replacing clutch hydraulics
jtdesigns replied to undercoverwalrus's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Ummm yeah that was the OP,,, I kinda pirated this thread,,, ARRRRRR!!! lol Sorry,walrus :razz: I know the day is coming to replace the internal,,(knock,knock) Its going suck,,,,BAD! Not only cause you have to yank the tranny, but things are $$$$.. -
I think those reviews are just for JCW's sheet metal,, :dunno:
-
replacing clutch hydraulics
jtdesigns replied to undercoverwalrus's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
The newer Jeeps are a complete one-piece unit from master to the external slave. I adapted my 88 master to the 99 slave that came attached to my trans (had a few inches of line left on it) using a simple 1/4"-5/16 line adapter from the hardware store. Guess he didn't think of it. :D nice thinkin.. That sucks you can't just remove the line,, well at least its external!! -
replacing clutch hydraulics
jtdesigns replied to undercoverwalrus's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Yeah I bookmarked that , Thanks!! I saw where he had the bolt and stud like mine.. The thing I didnt understand was him having to buy the whole complete unit from master to slave just because of the line?? I was talking about the master not the slave cyl.. I don't even want to think about the internal slave :wall: -
you use the magnet to find filler,,"bondo",, If you look down the side of the truck you should be able to tell if alot was used. Any paint job thats done "right" will have a lil filler here and there.. You just don't want a whole sheet of it though..
-
hey while your out getting some new snap-on goodies,, buy me some!! :D
-
replacing clutch hydraulics
jtdesigns replied to undercoverwalrus's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Thats funny,, I took off my master and it used a stud and a bolt... :dunno: Thanks for the "JT" thread :D -
Very nice mj in TN for sell... EBAY MJ
-
replacing clutch hydraulics
jtdesigns replied to undercoverwalrus's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
How you know? lol kid'n I have a clutch related question to ask.... What all master cylinders work with the mj?? 2.5 xj? 4.0 wj?? 4.0 yj?? -
Door speakers and manual windows
jtdesigns replied to DansGreyMj's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I know for sure the cable has a rubber tube, as for if it points to the rear or front, I'm not 100%. I was thinking it pointed to the rear...... -
Well up until I was 12 I thought my name was Jesus Christ.. My brothers name was Damnit. I mean what would you if you were a kid and Dad always said, "Jesus Christ, Damnit boys get in here!!" :D lol Jonathan, friends have call me jt since high school... You guys can too..
-
Door speakers and manual windows
jtdesigns replied to DansGreyMj's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I'm not 100% sure,but isn't the end of the cable pointing toward the rear of the truck? Like maybe yours was moved to point straight up, or toward the front..... Is this correct?? edit:: you know, on my trucks doors, I was missing the rubber in which the corkscrew was housed in. It was just laying in the bottom. When I put it back on I took a small zip tie and used that to hold it on. When the rubber "tube" was off you could hear it rattle around inside the door. Does this sound like it might be what yours is doing? -
On those,, Well those things were the main reason I removed my covers.. The thing was I could lift the knob, but the the latch wasn't releasing, which didn't let the seat tilt forward. IIRC there is a cover around the knob that has two silver screws (those covers were busted on mine) Remove those and the bezel pops off. The knob has a roll pin through it, so I didn't mess with it, Anyway that knob is connected to a cable (just like a bicycle brake cable) that runs down to the latch. There was a little bracket that held the cables cover, to make it work, that was bent back and didn't allow the latch to move. I bent it back down and it was good. On another note, there at the knob the seat frame has teeth that holds the cover down.....that cover might work in conjunction with the teeth to hold the seat fabric. Like I said mine were busted..
-
just goto the hardware store and pick you up a roll of plumbers thread tape, (white ribbon), only about a buck.. remember to wrap in the same direction as the threads.. so when you tighten the plug the tape will tighten.
-
Try this.. only you don't need the tension wrench, and you have to push in while hitting the tumblers..
-
On my seats, the headrest has two clips made into it. Kinda, sorta like electrical connectors. ie.. you snap them together and it hooks..... I removed the seat back fabric (too easy.) and kinda peeled it off inside out. (kinda like a sock) then you will see where and how to push the clips in and release the cylinders. Of course, you know you have to twist the things to adjust the head rest right? well imagine the part that twist is a cylinder inside of another cylinder. the outside cylinder has the clips you push from inside the seat... Is this what your asking??
-
Ok here's a run down of the thread.. Eagle- :hateputers: :dunno: me- :hmm: me- :deal: Wildman- BLHTAZ- Badger- :thwak: :smart: me- :razz: lostissues - :typing: wahoosteeler- :smart: :smart: wahoosteeler- :smart: DirtyComanche- :mad: Wildman- :waving: jeepdoggydogB- :typing: :thumbsup: Eagle- :clapping: :headpop: :???: jeepdoggydogB- 8) lostissues- :thumbsup: chicofuentes0224- Badger- :thwak: Eagle- :eek: :driving: Kenosha Warrior- :smart: :Canadaflag: Badger- :oops: :waving: :yes: wahoosteeler- :cry: chicofuentes0224- ;) :cheers: Badger- :rant: :wall: wahoosteeler- :rant: :cheers: Badger- :papers: wahoosteeler- :oops: dakal- :agree: wahoosteeler- :typing: :chillin: jeepdoggydogB- :eek: :brows: Badger- :smart: Eagle- :dunno: :( :???: mjeff87- :rotfl2: Eagle- :huh???: :thumbsup: Kenosha Warrior- :nuts: shane634- :thumbsup: :smart: feerocknok- :typing: ;) chicofuentes0224- :chillin: JeepcoMJ- :rotf: Badger- Eagle- :headpop: :fool: :thwak: :teehee: :banana: wahoosteeler- :shake: :shake: me- :nuts: al least thats how I see it!!! yeah I'm bored..... :popcorn:
-
any updates??
-
:agree: :eek: :D :clapping:
-
:eek: :eek: Whats the story with that??
-
yeah I'd say check/replace switch....... If you look up under your dash you'll see a hole. Through that hole you will see the switch. on the switch through the hole you'll see a little button. when you press that button you will be able to pull the knob and shaft out of the switch. then you will see a collar which takes a large flat/straight screwdriver. spin that collar off and the switch comes out from behind the dash. unhook the switch and there you go. when you install the switch back make sure you align the slot on the switches threaded end where the collar goes. its kinda a pain but is doable. The switch connector was also a PITA.. Oh and theres a ground that connects to the switch body,, don't forget that one.
-
No one from MO??
-
Yeah its warm one day and your mind goes to mush,, huh?
-
Wildman, You should be getting a package in the next 2 weeks.... ;)
