Motion Offroad

The first thing that comes to mind is how are they determining that the axle housing is bent? I'm not doubting them, but it really takes a specialized person to make that call. The CAD D30 is actually a much stronger housing due to the CAD area being reinforced. I'm not sure how close you are to Denver, but Joshua at Crawlertech 4x4 (he's also the new owner of Crane Hi-Clearance) is probably one of the most knowledgeable guys I've ever talked to about axle's. I know he's got the equipment to tell you if your housing is truly bent or not. Just another thought. He can be reached at 720-422-4598.

TC should of been in (N) and tranny should of been in (D) or (1st) if your flat towing. If the rear DS was not connected unless you have a non-CAD axle you should of been fine.

We have them in stock and would ship same if ordered by 3PM. Unfortunately it looks like ground shipping would put you at Monday to Del Mar, CA from us. If they would of left today you'd of had them by Friday.... :grrrr:

Depends on the width of the tire, as well as the backspacing of the rim. Will also greatly depend on how much "trimming" you do. But with that said, you could run a 35" tire on a 4.5" lift.

If you use the tranny you'll also need to use the TC. Their was a swap in spline count when they did away with the Renix era motor's. It went from a 21 spline output on the AW4 to a 23 spline output. So the TC input shaft must match the tranny output shaft. Also the HO did away with the cable driven speedo cable on the 96+ as well as the vac pump to control the CAD on the D30. So if your going to be using the tranny/tc off of a HO I'd personally go with one from 91-95 so you don't have to mess with your gauge cluster. The CAD is another issue though that can be easily solved with shimming the CAD over, running a 1 piece shaft, or with the 4x4 Posi-Lok setup.

We've been doing the washer mod for years without any ill effects. I've heard of people breaking the fork but to this day I can not understand why people are breaking them. The fork when spaced over shouldn't have any load on it. It's only job is to push the sleave over both sides of the shafts, thus making it one shaft. Their really shouldn't be any "load" on the fork itself. 4x4 PosiLok sells a cast iron fork that shouldn't ever break. But at ~$55 for it your better off upgrading to the 1-peice shaft with a 297x u-joint.

It is common on the MJ's for the drivers side rear spring to sag (or settle) faster than the passengers side. This is because in a single person use vehicle the drivers side see's more use from the weight of the driver getting in/out. It is also the side that the fuel tank is on, so it has more weight on the drivers side as well due to that fact. We tell our customers that the drivers side rear leaf will typically settle faster to ride height than the passenger side rear leaf does. This is due to the facts stated above. We state that if this does happen you can simply swap them side to side and the other leaf will settle to ride height sooner. If your carrying a large load, we do offer a HD version of our 3" and 4.5" leafs with a increased load capacity. Feel free to PM us for more info.

I'm going to assume your talking about our kit... and I'll leave the "sales pitch" at the door and just give you the hard facts. I've been using the kit for over 2 years now and wheel the MJ relatively hard. I haven't had a single issue with it to date. The kit "keys" into the existing SUA perch so it does not move when it's bolted down. The kit is set for the correct pinon angle for 6" of lift; this is done by the way it "keys" into the existing perch. It is also a lot longer than any weld-on perch that I've seen is; this helps in preventing axle wrap often found in a SOA setup using factory leafs. Also note the "notch" that is used for the brake lines. So you don't have to worry about moving the factory lines at all. Some guys will say "never ever ever run a bolt-on setup". I feel that the bolt-on setup is actually stronger than just welding a new perch onto the axle due to the way it's designed. Some will probably argue that point though. It's for someone without a welder and wants an easy solution to doing SOA in the rear.

I'm going to assume your talking about our kit... and I'll leave the "sales pitch" at the door and just give you the hard facts. I've been using the kit for over 2 years now and wheel the MJ relatively hard. I haven't had a single issue with it to date. The kit "keys" into the existing SUA perch so it does not move when it's bolted down. The kit is set for the correct pinon angle for 6" of lift; this is done by the way it "keys" into the existing perch. It is also a lot longer than any weld-on perch that I've seen is; this helps in preventing axle wrap often found in a SOA setup using factory leafs. Also note the "notch" that is used for the brake lines. So you don't have to worry about moving the factory lines at all. Some guys will say "never ever ever run a bolt-on setup". I feel that the bolt-on setup is actually stronger than just welding a new perch onto the axle due to the way it's designed. Some will probably argue that point though. It's for someone without a welder and wants an easy solution to doing SOA in the rear.

The front you can get away with just adding a 3" coil, but for the price of a 3" coil you might as well get yourself a 4.5" coil if your going to be buying them anyways. Price between the 2 is VERY minimal. As for the rear, you don't want to use a shackle to get 5" of lift. The shackle would have to be about 12" long... You need to do an AAL or a new set of rear leafs. At 5" of lift you REALLY need to do other things as well. Adjustable Trackbar - In our opinion anything over 2" of lift on a XJ/MJ should use an adjustable tracbar. The factory one just is not long enough. Trackbar drop brackets are just asking for issues as well. An adjustable trackbar keeps your axle centered under your rig, and at 3" of lift it is noticeable that your axle is not centered anymore. Plus if you ran with the stock tracbar it can (and probably will) wear your tires funny over time. Trackbars are much cheaper than a new set of tires. Coils vs. Spacers - A debatable topic. In our opinion anything over 1.5" of spacer is a "no-no". I'd venture to say that in my opinion the only reason spacers should be ran is to level out a lift, or for more lift after a heavy duty aftermarket bumper and/or winch. Coils are cheap... Lower Control Arms - No questions about this one. At 5" of lift you NEED to have longer lower control arms Rear Leafs vs. Add A Leafs (AAL's) - Depends on the condition of your factory packs and if your going to be offroading it or using it as a truck to haul/carry things. AAL's make your leaf packs sag faster, and throwing a miss-matched leaf with more/less arch into a factory pack typically makes the ride suffer greatly. We feel new leafs are the best route; thus why our kit comes with them. Swaybar Disco's - EVERY Jeep driven on the road should have their swaybar connected. Driving your jeep offroad you'll get better flex with your swaybar disco'd. Bumpstops - XJ front bumpstops work on the MJ. The rear is a bit more tricky and we've got a trick setup for the MJ coming on the market in the very near future. Bumpstops are important as they limit the flex and provent your springs/leafs from over flexing and wearing them out sooner. Also you typically get more flex when you hit your bumpstop as it forces the other side of the axle down. Brakelines - You'll need much longer brakelines at 5" of lift. It is highly recommended that you do not wheel your MJ without longer brakelines. If you over-stretch the factory rubber one's you risk damaging them and they may fail on you when you least expect it (driving down the road). Let us know if we can be of any further help. :cheers:

The front you can get away with just adding a 3" coil, but for the price of a 3" coil you might as well get yourself a 4.5" coil if your going to be buying them anyways. Price between the 2 is VERY minimal. As for the rear, you don't want to use a shackle to get 5" of lift. The shackle would have to be about 12" long... You need to do an AAL or a new set of rear leafs. At 5" of lift you REALLY need to do other things as well. Adjustable Trackbar - In our opinion anything over 2" of lift on a XJ/MJ should use an adjustable tracbar. The factory one just is not long enough. Trackbar drop brackets are just asking for issues as well. An adjustable trackbar keeps your axle centered under your rig, and at 3" of lift it is noticeable that your axle is not centered anymore. Plus if you ran with the stock tracbar it can (and probably will) wear your tires funny over time. Trackbars are much cheaper than a new set of tires. Coils vs. Spacers - A debatable topic. In our opinion anything over 1.5" of spacer is a "no-no". I'd venture to say that in my opinion the only reason spacers should be ran is to level out a lift, or for more lift after a heavy duty aftermarket bumper and/or winch. Coils are cheap... Lower Control Arms - No questions about this one. At 5" of lift you NEED to have longer lower control arms Rear Leafs vs. Add A Leafs (AAL's) - Depends on the condition of your factory packs and if your going to be offroading it or using it as a truck to haul/carry things. AAL's make your leaf packs sag faster, and throwing a miss-matched leaf with more/less arch into a factory pack typically makes the ride suffer greatly. We feel new leafs are the best route; thus why our kit comes with them. Swaybar Disco's - EVERY Jeep driven on the road should have their swaybar connected. Driving your jeep offroad you'll get better flex with your swaybar disco'd. Bumpstops - XJ front bumpstops work on the MJ. The rear is a bit more tricky and we've got a trick setup for the MJ coming on the market in the very near future. Bumpstops are important as they limit the flex and provent your springs/leafs from over flexing and wearing them out sooner. Also you typically get more flex when you hit your bumpstop as it forces the other side of the axle down. Brakelines - You'll need much longer brakelines at 5" of lift. It is highly recommended that you do not wheel your MJ without longer brakelines. If you over-stretch the factory rubber one's you risk damaging them and they may fail on you when you least expect it (driving down the road). Let us know if we can be of any further help. :cheers:

If you want cheap we've got a set of 2" XJ AAL's laying around that I'm tired of looking at. Brand spankn' new. They are yours for $30 plus shipping. PM me if your interested.

We've been selling the ACC brand for quite awhile and have been very happy with the results for the money. They are available in both Carpet as well as a Vinyl for the MJ's. Both styles are available in several color options as well. ACC does have different part numbers based on the years, so if the vendor you order threw is direct with ACC you should be able to give them the year of your MJ to get the correct set (aka it should fit better). Let us know if we can be of any further help.

Gen 3 is a high clearance arm and has a re-designed mounting system that now is 100% bolt on. Only welding that is "required" is to tack the crush sleaves so that they don't fall into the frame rail during install. You can get away without doing this step if your extra carefull (aka run a wire threw it prior to installing the bolt). We've got them marked down $40 currently, give us a call and we may be able to even offer more... Also FYI, the XJ/MJ RK 3-Link kit will only be available until 12/30/08 and is being discontinued at that point. A new system will be available from RK at that point, but pricing is going up significantly as it includes much more.

It's a very large job to put ABS into a MJ. You need the tone rings on the axles, all the axle stuff. So your better off just buying ABS equipped axles and swapping in. Than you need the pump and all electric stuff. Change out the bolster to a ABS one etc. Unfortunately (for those of use who already have ABS on the XJ/MJ) the system is less than desirable. The ABS system is known to have issues, and with several recalls on the systems and them still not functioning correctly many guys will just disconnect the pump and run without the ABS. 9 times out of 10 the system works better without the ABS running than it does with it running. Personally I can't see any major benefit to having the ABS in your MJ, and it's not going to be a cheap process to put it in. Not worth the headache/cost if you ask me.

We recommend running the Bighorns on a 8" wide rim. With an 8" wide rim your going to want to run the soft 8's in the 4" BS flavor. We've NEVER broken the bead with a 33" or 35" Bighorn on a 8" wide rim aired down as low as 12psi wheeling. We typically run them at 18psi though on the trails and they perform very well. And yes, if you were running a 10" wide rim the BS would be different.

ZJ lift springs typically have a different coil rate than XJ/MJ lift springs do. You will typically get 1" MORE lift out of a ZJ coil on the XJ/MJ than on a ZJ. So if you have a 3" ZJ coil, you'll most likely get 4" out of them on the XJ/MJ.

Personal opinion, but I wouldn't run a 10" wide rim with a 12.5" wide tire. A 8" wide tire will hold the bead much better, especially when aired down wheeling. You want a 3.5" - 4" BS on the MJ's with a 12.5" tire. The lower the number, the further they will stick out.

Since the MJ is SUO (spring under axle) a lift block will actually lower the rear. The cheap/easy way to get lift out of the rear is to use a longer extended shackle. Coil spacers for the front. I wouldn't recommend doing anything more than 1.5" of lift this way though.

If the trailer is sitting on a good piece of land than why not? Live in the trailer a few years until you can afford to build a house. Once house is done, remove trailer from your land and all is well. I don't know how it is around there, but around here you can almost buy a house with property for the same amount as you can buy just the property. It's becoming more and more popular for people to live in the "old" house while they are building their "new" house on the same property.

Being that the AW4/NP231 combo is one of the longest in overall length available in the MJ's, and that the D44 has a longer "snout" than the D35 does, it would make sense to me that the d-shaft with that combo and it being a SWB would make it one of the shortest d-shafts available.

A XJ Cherokee rear bumper and/or trailer hitch will not fit on the MJ Comanche's without major modification. You can purchase MJ specific trailer hitches from several different manufactures. Draw-Tite sells a very nice one for the MJ's.

If you swap your older (84-96) headlight buckets from side to side (so put the left on the right side, and the right on the left side) they will work with the newer style header panel. I know you were looking for cheap, but I hope free will also work... :cheers:

Going SOA in the rear of the MJ will net you 5-7" of lift depending on what axle you have, what set of perches you use, and what set of leafs you have (2wd vs. 4wd vs. MT). Most see right at 6" of lift and use a 6.5" front coil to make it look "level". As stated above, the XJ and MJ perches are in different locations so you'd need to burn on new perches to make the XJ axle work. The shock mounts on the axle are different as well. The XJ mounts are on the axle itself, the MJ mounts are on a bracket that holds the leafs to the axle.

Mid 1990 was the conversion from 21 spline to 23 spline. Also be aware that the 23 spline input NP231 TC (if thats what he has) will not have the stuff for the vac. disco on the axle. So if he has a vac. disco axle he will have to do something about that to control the 4wd function as the TC will not be able to do it. The TCU monitors throttle position, ground speed, and shift lever position (switches in the console) to select the gears appropriately. It also monitors position of the POWER/COMFORT switch (for those of you who have it) to change upshift and downshift points and TCU lock parameters. Here is a link to the AW4 manual that may be of some help during the swap. http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/AW4_manual.pdf