FxRacing282

sounds like you need to make sure your water temp gauge is accurate. also check to see if your radiator it clean. leaves and mud and sticks in the way will hinder the process. if your radiator looks clean and there are no or very little strips of copper missing, the 'fin' like things between the bars that run across. i would then check to see if your water pump is in spec. often enough a water pump is the cause and that's what it sounds like to me if everything checks out. you may be able to pull a radiator hose off and look into the radiator. its also likely that it is clogged. and closed loop for those of you who may have this confused, the term "closed loop" refers to the oxygen sensor. closed loop is when the o2 sensor is above 600 F. open loop is when the engine runs on a base fuel trim mode and can not make fine adjustments to achieve stoichiometric ratio. thus making you run too lean or too rich.

pull on one side of the drum and take your dead blow to the other. go back and forth. if that does not work. cut the hold down pins from the back out so everything else comes out. if that does not work. take a slide hammer with a hook and have at her, walking it back and forth.

when you still have cooling issues, you have take little fans and get some hose and run some cold air going into the rad from somewhere thats not hot. like the wheelwell.

the cylinders needs to be honed because engine is more than just wearing down the bore and rings. the top of the cylinder is has a larger bore than the bottom and the cylinder become oval shaped as it heats up and expands against itself. send it to a machine shop to get checked and re-bored or just honed.

using heat may work but its not good for the knuckle. are you sure you have the press pressing the ball joint the right way? double and triple check the snap ring is out 100%

:doh: :popcorn: :rotf:

should be all set just bleeding them. a good gravity bleed and a few pumps each side should do it. your squeaking is most likely caused by no lubrication or goop between then brake pad and the caliper. not only do the slides need a grease (copper compound seems to work best as it does not dry up and allows a constant lube for the slides) but a brake pad lube which is actually just high temp silicone on the back of the pad where it contacts the caliper will rid the squeaking. if your rotors aren't blued or have rust on them and aren't gouged or dished, don't even worry about replacing them.

you can get a gas tank sealer. if you have small arms you could get a scraper in there to scrape some away. here is how i see it, yes you could get a new tank and it would work great. youd be rollin. or you could get the first hand experience and clean out your tank try and refurbish it yourself. maybe it works maybe it doesn't. but it would only take a few hours and if it doesn't work then spend the 150 for a new tank. that's just me.

to check for pulse you can use a test light. pull one injector connector and place one lead to one of the wires, another lead to another wire. crank the engine. the light should flash. no flash, no fuel. it may only be a dim flash but that means its getting voltage.

yup. they are ugly, and do not offer anything other than an ugly gap, and tire clearance. no enhanced suspension travel or performance. i hate them with a passion. out here in nh, body lifts are great. there inst much for rock crawling and its way cheaper than buying a suspension kit. you can run bigger tires and you get axle clearance and you can take lawn edging and cover your gaps. in fact companies make gap guards so you don't have the look. out how often do most people fully max out there suspension to the point where they need to have that extra bit of travel? i know some do, but its really not that many. so just think of how economical they are next time you start insulting a genius idea.

almost bought a diesel manche

yes it is. tire size and gear ratio is a factor or rpm. the t5 60 degree heads tranny the fifth gear is like .72 i believe. somewhere in there.

yeah my dad is sick of looking at it. i have no use for it. but the price is right. only weight about 50 pounds shipping wouldnt be too much. atleast, thats what it feels like?

i have the transmission you want. with the bell housing, clutch slave, and the yoke and clutch and flywheel off a 2.8. and yes the 2.8 camaro engine is a terrible motor and it has the 60 degree heads making it un-swappable with just about anything else GM has ever produced. its free if you come get it. I'm in NH about 25 minutes from portsmouth about 50 minutes from manchester.

well to run dual you would want to make sure you have enough clearance in front of the motor. you would have to drill and solder it together. but it would greatly increase cooling capabilities.

have you done a test to make sure your coolant temp sensor is working? also have to checked the volume and pressure of the water pump? it is possible they are faulty. if all checks out, have you though about running dual radiators? custom radiator? you may have to put another resivior that water runs through like after the t-stat and before the upper radiator fitting to increase the capacity of coolant.

ive used P.O.R. 15 before, and 90% of the process is prep. do a good job on the marine clean, if you have any doubts, do it again. after this has dried and looks to be free of any oil or grease or any petroleum based products, or anything for that matter, spray the metal ready on there. don't be afraid to spray it as it puts a zinc coating ( i think its zinc). after about a half hour you will needs to get it off with water. spray spray spray the water on there, you don't want any leftover under the paint or it won't stick as well. once this is dry, wait another few hours to be 110% its dry. apply the first coat on and try not to get runs, obviously. but don't be shy to put it on. stuff it in every crack you see and it fills in pits from rust very well so lay it down. after about 4 hours, or the finger drag test(drag your finger across (clean and dry finger) it should feel tacky but dry. if you get a few pieces of black on your finger its ready for the next coat. make sure to get EVERY spot because when its dried you will see where you missed. oh, get some brake parts cleaner, it will get the P.O.R. 15 off your hands. good luck :thumbsup:

how are the front axle shaft joints?

yeah, thats why tranny mounts and transmissions are mentioned. :cheers:

side to side is fail. up movement is about .040''. if they have play you should replace them, its safety, they probabally won't break but thats my opinion. you can do it yourself, 36mm socket, 12 point 14mm and a ball-joint press all barrowed from the parts store and you can do it. ive done all 4 in just over 3 hours. (lift, air tools, proper lube and whatnot)

if your box is loose then tighten it. if you disagree with me then why do they put the tightening screw on there? spray the threads with some de-greaser and loosen the lock not. screw in the screw until it makes contact, back off 1/2 turn and tighten lock nut. that should give you 1'' or so play in the wheel you should have. but LCA's and track bar, you defiantly need those

why don't you put it on jacks, make the noise and look for the problem? my guess is exhaust. if your tranny mount was loose, when you give it some or downshift the shift lever would be moving all around. don't ask how i know. good chance its not the driveshaft or u-joints. e brake cable possibly? mine made noises a few times.

let the truck warm up for about 5 minutes. should come loose after that.

you want to talk to pete

how about a power brake of a full size?