pingpong

From where I live it is shorter to ride to Paragon :D Never been to Uwharrie, but I know a bunk of zuki guys go there, and their pics have not impressed me. Tellico :D The only problem with that place is you often get stuck behind ill equipped rigs that break. Patrick

Eagle the tubes on the 8.8 measure 3.25, thus requiring new u-bolts. I went with some 5/8 ones cause that is what he had in stock that fit. I suppose I could have went to the stealership and paid 12 bucks a piece for the stock ones, that flatten out at the bottom, but none of the jeep ones would fit. I still have the original spring pads from when I first swapped out to xj pads :D I don't throw that crap away.. never know what you will be building next :twisted:

Randy's is where I got mine from, and that is what I think they have them advertised for. Like I said call around, sometimes a shop can get free shipping and will pass the savings onto you. Randy's requires a 1000 dollars to be spent for free shipping. so Shafts, gears, and a lockright, plus 2 install kits, and I bet you are within a stone throws of free shipping :twisted:

Depending on the price I say get it. I will buy the outer spindles from you if they are 8 lug, or trade you the outer spindels and knuckles from my 5 on 5.5 D44, as I need to go to 8 x6.5. My D30 is holding up fine to some abusive wheeling on 35's. BY no means do I take it easy on them. Basically your choice is to either keep your rig in aperpetual state of build or build in stages. Keep in mind that It is cheaper to do it once, but I prefer to minimize my rigs downtime and keep wheeling. D44's can take up to 38's with alloys, and proper driving style, which means more gearing, and less throttle. The weak point on them is the ball joint. On my d60 my plans are to go with Yukon 35 spliine shafts one I break my stock set of 31 splines. I plan on using a spool cause it is a dedicated trail rig so street manners are not really a concern for me. D70 parts are about double of what a D60 is just keep that in mind. Also the prevailing theroy out there is a 38 is the smallest tire to run on the D60/14b/d70 cause of lack of clearance under the pumpkin Patrick

Will a d35 live with 33's. well that depends on your driving style, and what kinda wheeling you do. Like I said I bent 2 axle housing before I upgrade to my 8.8. Both housing that I had bent were the more "desireable" non-C cllip housings. I think if they would have been c-clip axles I would have busted the shafts. I'd try it. At worst you have to replace a d35 housing. they are cheap and easy to find. Patrick

I went with the yukon alloys and 760 u-joints, and have had zero issues since doing that upgrade. I think the going price is around 325 for the complete set of shafts with joints. I would definately call around and see if you can get free shipping for them. Do that and throw a lock right in it, and you will be pleased with the on road and offroad ability. and you won't have a jag of money into your axle. Over the knuckle is different then a hi-steer. Basically what I have is a WJ knuckle. which copnnects the knuckle togetherr, and has a seperate mounting provision for the drag link. Patrick

I don't think I have any pics of what my t-case skid looks like, but there should be plenty of pics on my webshots page where you can see it from the side. I know in the Independent link in my sig you can see the whole underbody of my rig :D

Shanging it back to a LSD or a open diff is as easy as telling me that is what you want. The LSd carrier might be a lil harder to get a hold of, but the open carrier is realtively cheap. I would install the new carrier if that was really a sticking point. But for 750, I think I will hold onto the axles. I did the math, and the parts alone in the front axle total over 1500. Thats not including the rear axle, or the rims and tires. Patrick

You mean no one has an opinion on what these are worth? :shock:

There are several problems with the axle. One is the thin tubes, which have a tendency to bend, The next is the axle shaft diameter. then there is the c-clip factor. I don't see that as a down side unless you break a shaft :shock: Just makes it a lil harder if it is a non c-clip to change on the trail. A stronger axle would be the 8.25, found in XJ's problem with them is gears only got to 4.56 and there isnt many choices as far as a locker goes. Then ther is the 8.8, and you would want one from a 96 and newer explorer. Stronger then a D44, and almost as strong as a D60 as far as shaft strength goes, down side is c-clip axles, but the disc brakes will hold them in. Also gearing is limited as well. 4.56 is all that is available from aftermarket, but you can get 4.88 from the stealership. Then there is the d44, that can be found in 87, and 88? xj and Mj. Strong axle, but kinda pricey. for the money I would just swap in an 8.8, and get the disc brakes. AMC 20 found in the ton package MJ. I don't know much about this, but maybe some one else on here will chime in on it. Or last but not least is full width axles. I am preparing to swap in a d60 from a 79 ford. Plans for it are to use 35 spline d70 shafts. For this I have to have my spindles bored out, but it will work fine. Money well spent. Also there will be regearing involed as well as a spool. and H1 bead locks :D

:shock: Do you plan on upgrading shafts? Also are your shafts c-clip or non? Either way do your self a favor and build an upper truss for your axle to keep the tubes from bending. Might also help you if you get a spare set of shafts. Remember the nonc-clip ones you have to keep the bearings clean and dry for them to be any good in a bind. I found that cling wrap, and duct tape work really well for that :D

It doesn't appear to sit any higher then my stock one that I have, But like you mine has seen better days, and since I have to remake a X-memeber, I was thinging of doing something a lil different. More then likely I will just get some nut inserts as well and make it work, till I get the steel to make my belly up skid. Patrick

Lets not forget the cutting torch :shock: or better yet the plasme cutter (still can't justify the expense). Or a tubing bender :twisted: Then you really can start to build some stuff, especially if you get the bend tech program. Really minimizes waste. we used 26o foot of tube on my rig, and all the waste and mistakes, didnt take up half a stick. Patrick

I had to sell off all my other jeeps cause my trail rig was requiring more money then the bank account could handle. I sold my second MY for full width axles, and sold my last XJ so I could buy my tow rig, and the xj before that so I could buy my LA's and 8.8. I am starting to see a pattern here :shock:

Well as I keep upgrading my Jeep, I keep ending up with spare parts. I have never asked for advice on parts before, cause they have always been parts I bought used, and sold for close to what I paid for them. I am getting ready to go to full widths here in the next few months, and I was wondering what the consensus on my current axle setup worth would be. here is the setup. D30 with Terra flex hi steer knuckle, Yukon alloy shafts with 760 u-joints, Lockright, with 4.10 gears. It also has LCA skids, truss on the passenger side uppper mount, and a modified warn diff cover. Steering links are 1.5x1/4 wall dom with 1tonChevy TRE, and the aluminum drag link from terra as well. All these parts have are less then a yr old except the axle housing itself. The rear is a 97 8.8, that is lincoln locked, it has a BTF diff cover, and spider trax wheel spacers. the spring perches are 3x2x1/4 wall tubing, and the tubes have been welded to the pumpkin. More then likely I wil be also selling the 35's with 50 -60% tread on beat down cragar soft 8's. That are dynamically balanced using air soft pellets. So basically the new owner would get everything, except a lift kit, to wheel the piss out of. I am going to try and sell them as a set, hopefully to a MJ owner who is going to use them for what they were built for. The reason for me going to bigger axles is so I can run bigger tires. I want to move up to 38's, at least till I get the money for a hp60. Patrick

God speed and best wishes. Thanks also Patrick

Nice... where did you get it from? Also how did you gain 2" of GC. IT appears to sit at the same level as the stock t-case. BTW those bolts along the frame, need some kinda protection, especially if you wheel in rocks. They also appear to be self tapers, the will pull out. I know the ones on my Rock rail did after a few months of hard use. Patrick

burnt out light bulb could cause that problem, as well as a burnt out flasher relay. Patrick

Well I found some H1 beadlocks locally. Well in a near by state for 200, plus another 100 for shipping. I might end up going to pick them up if he is willing to meet part way. I have a lead on some flat top knuckles. Next it is on to gears and lockers. Patrick

well It looks like I will be getting a set of H1 bead locks :D Now it is time to get the project truly rolling. All I need now is some 3/4 ton chevy flatops and hi-steer :shock: slowly but surely it will be built. :twisted: Follow me to the path of the dark side :twisted:

Since I don't know much about the 2.8 as far as power goes when you go to bigger tires, I really can't comment on that. What I can comment on is 31's ahould have no problem with your current setup, and with very lil trimming you can clear them stock. 33's is going to tax the stock 260 u-joints especially if you lock it up, and well the d35 is a crap shoot if it will live with 33's or not. More then likely it will be the weak link. Patrick

I am just wondering how large of a lift are you talking about? I have never heard of someone doing that before either. Ihave seen and heard of ppl using double CV's in a d/s but not off setting the diff like that. Patrick

I will check in my shed, I might have some "spare" d35 spider gears, if I do, you can have them for what shipping will cost. I probrably threw them out cause none of my stuff has a d35 in them anymore :? I bent the tubes on 2 different axles, before I upgraded to a better axle. Patrick

If you can hold off a few months I will have a built D30 with alloys and Hi-steer for sale. It has 4.10 gears and a lockright, with lca skids and a truss on the passenger side uca mount. Also has 1.5x1/4 DOM centerlink with 1ton chevy TRE's and the Terra drag link. It will be sold along with my 8.8 that isd lincoln locked, with BTF diffcover, and spidertrax wheel spacers. But as for the super 30 being worth it... to be honest I wish I would have dumped the money right into a d44 or a d60. would have came out to be about the same. I got a 78 ford hp44 that I think I am going to build just cause I have it, and really can't afford another grand for a hp 60 housing. Only if I change my t-case to a passenger side drop, then I will be set, it seems that the chevy d60 is easier and cheaper to find. Patrick

Jeff, If I was you, I would find a non disco front axle and swap the 4.56's into that. The disco axles do have their issues beside the CAD failing. I bent one :shock: Yeah I almost flopped, but it still bent the tubes, which caused me to destroy an axle, and break my locker :roll: Also if you catch the Pick apart right you can find a 297 equipped xj or tj and get stronger shafts. The rear, is a hardchoice. If you plan opn stil;l driving it on the road, go with a lunch box locker. Unless you have the extra coin, and then I would opt for a selectable in the rear. Give you the best of both worlds, and help your rear tires last a lil longer. On top of that it wouldn't puch when rounding corners, or try and drive around you on wet pavement. Patrick