Alexia

The headlight loom WAS perfect until one of the tabs from the bulb broke off in the socket. I destroyed the socket trying to separate the tab from it. It has a face!

Bored throttle bodies only make the throttle response sharper and assisting the higher 4,000+ RPM range on stock HO engines. On Renix engines with the tiny throttle body and poor flowing 2686 cylinder head it may see an overall improvement. Stock engines are decently matched for their intended RPM range in total flow from intake to exhaust with exhaust usually being the most restrictive part after the throttle body and cylinder head were upgraded for HO engines. The stock air intake system's restriction is mainly at the inlet to the air box and the fact that it tends to get hotter air from the engine compartment. The stock filter size is big enough. Air intakes that actually relocate the air source to a cooler location such as the cowl with a sufficiently large enough filter are an improvement. Those that just leave the filter in the engine bay with a dinky little heat shield are worthless.

My 1997 does not have it. It may have been for the original casting process.

What did you use to mount that CB antenna? I have looked a product that fits in the stock location like that to put on a CB antenna.

I am waiting on the fuel cell to be shipped still and it looks like it may come directly drop shipped from Genright. Mean while I am working on a few other items. The 1997+ door striker sits much further in that I expected so I had to fill the exposed hole with a washer. Cleaned up, painted, and installed. I applied black RTV around the striker to keep water out. This is not done from the factory on 1997+ XJs, but their rocker channels have drain holes that I have not found on the MJ. The door closes nicely and lines up well. I still need to install the thicker 1997+ door seals. New dark tint on the windows. The over exposed garage door around the vehicle door helps illustrate the effectiveness of the tint.

The main reason I would not want to toss a supercharger on a freshly rebuilt 4.0L or even a stroked 4.0L is that neither were ever tuned from the factory to handle a supercharger or turbocharger. With each setup being different and no known factory default for that kind of setup I certainly would not want to be trying to tune an engine during the break in period.

I know! I have to deal with our SysOps daily. :P

Oh, I turned on HTML email. I made a few changes to help alleviate the issue, but most of the issue is still on the host's end. Also, the support guy was weird. He said he believed all the emails were going through successfully, but in the log he provided it clearly said it was discarding all the emails.

Can you explain in a little greater detail why? I actually do know exactly why one would choose to wait, but i am having a major brain fart and can't seem to make my thoughts into words and need to hear it explained. :dunce: Imagine a lightly frozen over lake. Set a ten pound weight on it to test how much it can hold. The ice will be seen and heard cracking slowly form as the ten pound weight stresses the ice. Before the cracks get worse the weight can be removed quickly saving it and thus preventing the cracks from becoming broken ice.The next time a one hundred pound weight is put on the ice. The ice breaks and the weight sinks to the bottom. Now the weight is gone and the ice is very broken. In both scenarios the ice was defective for holding weight, but in one of them the damage was minimized since it was possible to detect the damage earlier thus stopping before it became catastrophic. It is the same idea for an engine. If a defective part was used or it was rebuilt improperly it will fail. It is a just a matter of how fast and how catastrophic.

Alabama is very cheap on old vehicles. Generally I pay under $100 for each vehicle for renewals. No inspection or emissions testing. Tax is only applied at the time of title transfer The 1996 Cherokee I bought for $500 cost me $54 to transfer, register, and pay tax on. Alabama is not quite brilliant with their vehicle registration. The state only just this year started actually checking for insurance upon registration. Before it was, "Do you have insurance on this vehicle?" <Owner> "I sure do!" *Wink* My LJ is licensed in Alabama, but is still titled in Pennsylvania. I have a valid registration for a vehicle that does not exist to the state of Alabama. They claim the can not fix either apparently, but it does not matter to them. The final piece... My MJ is registered as a 1997. Basically, if you give Alabama money each year for your vehicle they nod and do not care.

Putting it on during the break in period will only help make rebuild issues become apparent much faster. I am purposely waiting until I have put 500 miles on my rebuilt engine since if any small issues come up they will less likely to become major issues due to supercharging.

Using the email tester the software claims the email was sent successfully which just means the issue is not at the software level. The emails never reach the other end so it seems that the issue is with the web host. Unfortunately I have no access to mess with the host's servers. :(

I have considered that! Take a truck tool box, remove the low hanging portion that would be over the fuel cell, and enclose the rest of it leaving a tool box with one deep side and one shallow side. The same problems I am having with the Dakota tank made worse by the fully boxed corners.

There is not a vent on the fuel pump or sender assembly. The 5/8" tube next to the filler next is for venting. It creates a vacuum effect allowing the gas to pump faster. This is the modified tank I was attempting to install. The tube is a 1998 Dodge Dakota filler neck that I bored out the cap retainer and crimped the vent pipe.

Oh, not sure if my 1997 XJ donor had those. The dash stayed upright for me when I was installing it.

Right in the corner of the bed where I did not want to put it! It will fit neatly between the wheel hump, the front of the bed, and just right at the center line. $570 on 4 Wheel Parts with free shipping today and CC5OFF discount code.

After getting frustrated trying to make the Dakota tank fit under my MJ I ordered a Genright fuel cell at a huge discount from 4WP. I can take care of some interior trim while waiting for it to arrive. http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=BST2100-1

I am having some trouble fitting a 1998 22 gallon Dakota tank under the SWB MJ. The angled brace between the frame rail and the corner of the cab pushes the tank towards the drive shaft as it is tightened into place. Leaving it hanging three inches lower and wobbly is not ideal either. Any ideas why I am running into this issue when it has not come up before?

Those rear bumpers look great from the limited amount of pictures! The extra tail lights on the blue one too. Why are they not already in your hands? :P

Those full 1997+ conversions also include over 110 hours of labor figuring out all the little issues that come up putting the two generations together. Which works out to a $8,800 shop labor fee at an average of $80 an hour. So if that builder has a pile of cash they could certainly steam roll it with money instead of doing it all themselves. When it is just swapping the header panel, fenders, and mirrors to get that exterior look then certainly it is insanely cheaper.

I would start a new one! A new Comanche to play with and a new topic to keep it all organized. Maybe try to keep this one this time? :P

Mnkyboy, the cleaned up black header panel on your Jeep does an excellent job accenting the vehicle by following the black lines of the lower panels and fender flares. It certainly stands out when I am scrolling through the forum topics glancing at avatars.

Pointless to control both windows from the drivers side? It only takes one additional switch and three additional wires cross body to control both windows from the drivers side. "wired the doors up by there selves" - that's pointless mate. Nice pro-looking harness Alex. :cheers: Thanks! Though I never took pictures of it all wrapped up in wire loom and properly taped off though! As for swapping the windows it might be possible to swap the bolt in window tracks. You would really need both doors next to each other to swap some parts around to see how it would work.

I had to create an entire custom harness to wire them. Alexia, on the harness you created what gauge of wire did you use?? I'm about to buy an 18 roll assortment of differently colored wires for some future projects and want to be sure to get the correct gauge for this application. The wires range from 12 to 20 gauge. The power window feeds require 14 gauge. However, this is based on the Cherokee where all those wires have to run out the driver's door, back behind the rear seats, and back up to the passenger door. I would still recommend using 14 gauge wire since while I found that wire 16 gauge is sufficient for the shorter distance in a Comanche cab some older window motors as they wear out start pulling more amperage thus requiring 14 gauge. It also helps to prevent slow windows. The power mirrors use 20 gauge wire. The main ground and power wires are 12 gauge. Power door locks are inconsistent using both 16 and 18 gauge wire. I did not have any 18 gauge wire so I just used 16 gauge everywhere.

I had to create an entire custom harness to wire them.