Alexia

Tom Woods recommends measuring from the back of the transfer case tail cone because then Tom Woods subtracts the measurements of the slip or fixed yoke they use from the measurement provided. 3.75" too long is just about the additional that should have been taken off. Measuring for a standard Jeep drive shaft with slip yoke. Please note that is a rough guide and that ideally there should be 1.5" of slippage allowance inside the slip yoke to accommodate suspension travel. Always double check your measurements. 1.) Measure from the length from the center of the u-joint at the differential yoke to the edge of the tail cone on the transfer case. This has to be done in a straight line and not at an angle. Hanging pieces of string from the two points down to the floor to measure between works well. Example: 50" - This will be measurement A. 2.) Slip the slip yoke all the way bottomed out on to the transfer case output shaft. Measure the length of the slip yoke from the back of the transfer case tail cone to the center of slip yoke u-joint. Add 1.5" to this measurement to allow for slippage. Example: 4" + 1.5" = 5.5" - This will be measurement B. 3.) Final u-joint to u-joint length is A - B. Example: 50" - 5.5" = 44.5" NOTE: If the slip yoke hits the output shaft seal before bottoming out on the output shaft then the slip yoke is too long and may damage the transfer case if the entirety of the 1.5" slippage allowance is used during suspension travel. Simply cut the slip yoke down 0.5" to compensate or buy a shorter slip yoke.

Isn't this supposed to go in the "not your stuff" classifieds? :P

I read that as, "Might be time to part him out." I will probably never have a dog again since I have too many obligations, but I always had fun with them. Three dogs growing up: One got really old, two hip replacements, got into fights, ripped pads, cones of shame. Crawled up under my Jeep, refused to come out, died in her sleep under there. Second dog, died to cancer by seven years. Third dog, died to bone cancer by about ten years and had a football stomach multiple times of eating things that clearly were not food.

I have heard the exact opposite that Golen is golden and ATK is crap. *Shrugs* However, ATK is the supplier for the MOPAR stroker crate engines. I heard so many mixed opinions that I decided to build my own for cheaper.

I would just spray the accent colors over top of the powder coat. No sense in trying to double bake the powder in this case.

Yep, take the whole assembly off, fish it out, swap the clutch, and reinstall the fan clutch assembly. This has a much more complete process for doing it. http://www.4x4xplor.com/fan-clutch.html

Wranglers do not have an electric fan which is why they overheat quickly. Replacing the fan is simple and I would hope she could get it done cheaply.

People who build a vehicle can never get rid them! Always want them back at some point. :D At least you know it was decent hands meanwhile.

Doing one side at a time place a jack stand under the spring and rest the weight of the vehicle on it. Remove the tire on that side. Loosen the u-bolts and jack the axle up enough to get access to the pin head. The other option is to use a 2x4 or 4x4 with a bottle jack on its side between the springs to press the them outwards to apply pressure on those pins.

One thing to remember is that while it is not a huge change for the wheel bearing less backspacing puts more stress on the lug nuts.(The same for lots of backspacing.) It would not be a bad idea to replace those 20+ year old lug nuts while tearing it all apart.

So, how much does it actually apply that the owner's manual states that truck bed campers should never be used? I wondered the reason behind that manufacturer decision.

So that is your secret, you have access to a vehicle lift and a shop. :P

This is a pressure cap with a gasket to meet emissions testing, but even with a stock cap liquids can get by the seal. I jumped the fuel pump and have drained most of the liquid out into a can. This does technically give me an excuse to buy one of these soft truck bed covers. It would just make filling up a pain since it would have to be dropped every time to fill the tank. My current plan it to drill a hole in the non-structural collar allow drainage and then build a hinged cover for the top. http://www.softopper.com/jeep-comanche-soft-top-truck-cap-details.aspx

Apparently the collar that surrounds the filler next on the fuel cell is water proof, but the tank cap is not. There was water just up the edge of the cap and there still is half a tank of cloudy 93 octane gas in the tank. It was very clear when I filled it the other day. Time to change the filter and pour it out.

I listened to the injectors clicking with a screwdriver and each one seems to sound fine. The spark plugs are a nice golden brown. It seems like that new CPS in there might be bad.

I have 50,000 miles on the set on my LJ. No premature tire wire even when I occasionally miss doing a tire rotation by double the interval. Any idea about your bearings and such? I've heard that: "It's like putting a reverse offset wheel on, it puts abnormal pressure on the wheel bearings" 155,000-ish miles on the LJ. Wheel spacers have the same effect as putting on rims with low backspacing. Regardless, the wheel bearings will be fine as long as they are not run at one end of the extreme. What really kills bearings is lots of off road driving and constantly dunking them into mud.

I have 50,000 miles on the set on my LJ. No premature tire wire even when I occasionally miss doing a tire rotation by double the interval.

Not a diagram, but this should help. The rear port goes to the front left. The bottom rear port goes to the front right. The bottom front port goes to the rear. All of the lines there are straight from the dealership prebent for a 1997 XJ and were roughly $30 total. The short line from the XJ for bottom front port hooks right up to the feed line that goes to the MJ rear brakes. This setup eliminates the rear load sensing adjustment valve.

Things move under stress and I would not leave it alone for long. It will probably be fine. Personally I would just schedule the time in the future to replace the bolts.

I don't know what tires you are running, but when I had the 31" BFG M/T tires on, the slightest throttle would break the rear end free in the rain. I junked those and put on some Michelin LTX A/Ts and it doesn't do it anymore. Unless of course I tromp on it. And what plugs are you running? My Hesco motor doesn't like anything but Champion RC10 plugs. Anything else and I get an occasional misfire. Champion RC12LYC (412) PO300, PO301, PO306 - Multiple random misfires detected and misfires in cylinders one and six. I will have to pull it into the garage later, if it will run, and pull apart the ignition system.

I discovered something about this setup. Lots of horsepower + Light Truck = What is traction in the rain? I have to be very gentle with the throttle to keep the tires from breaking free. On the way home from lunch earlier the engine developed a misfire that would shake the entire vehicle, but no diagnostic codes were being thrown. I am guessing there may be moisture in the distributor cap or something else. It seemed to fix itself just by letting on the throttle for a few moments each time it happened.

Glad your company could survive and not have to go to the off road products company graveyard!

Yep, the part numbers end in AB, AC, and AD. 1997 is AB, 1998 is AC, and 1999-2001 is AD. AD is plentiful and has aftermarket replacements. AC I can seem to find all the time on eBay and junk yard. The differences between all of them are the resistances the switches use.

XJfreakHO: "Make me an offer... May part out soon." http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1102070

Shaking my fist at you for finding a two door XJ door panel to get a switch cover. That little piece has been a tough find for over a year now for me.