Alexia

Photobucket was never good for hosting pictures for forums.

The CAN to CCD bus translator is ready to test in vehicle. Refresher: This lets the Haltech ECU talk to the Jeep gauge cluster and transmission controller. I originally had a DAC in this design to send an analog TPS signal to the transmission controller. Which also included a logic level converter for the 3.3v to 5v conversion. I had a power supply and a LLC light on fire so I said, "Screw it, I will build my own transmission controller that uses CAN bus." After a lot of frustration and lighting a few wires on fire the prototype is assembled. It passes all tests on the work bench so now I just have to test it in vehicle.

Here I was thinking that would not be worth fixing. Some final clean up and it will be great!

The Haltech is basically a 100% complete solution. There is nothing I could not do with it provided that it has enough inputs and outputs. If you do this yourself you can repin the engine PCM/ECU connectors to the Haltech AMP connectors instead of doing what I did. My vacuum system was shot and I suspected intermittent wiring faults with the injector wiring as well. Since I was going to be adding some non-standard sensors and solenoids I decide to rewire the whole engine.

I have been diagnosing a power issue for the fuel pump on and off the past week. There was power at the relay terminals, but not at the pump. After some more careful looking I found that clip in the PDC that holds the power terminal on the relay had broken off. However, the terminal was under spring tension from the wire. Push relay in: Terminal gets pushed away; terrible connection. Pull relay out: Terminal pops back up looking like it is seated correctly. Disclaimer: I do not know if the OPDA clocking is correct, but it is close. My timing light I just bought refuses to work. Also, this is the first start with no tuning done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRMzCrMOCMo

The Craftsman direction switching started after they switched to the Chinese made mechanisms. My 3/8" Craftsman became nearly useless after I had to get it rebuilt. My Pittsburgh ratchets from Harbor Freight are better, but I hate that the lever direction is backwards from the direction it engages.

I skipped a couple updates over here, but the short version of those updates is that I fried a $2,000 Haltech ECU that took me a while to get replaced. I have been tidying up the wiring harness before doing the final application of split wire loom sheathing. Putting a single wrap of electrical tape around the wire bundles every six inches helps to keep single wires from pushing out or escaping from the wire loom due to vibration. I will have to call Haltech tomorrow to have a lengthier discussion about how their alternator field control works. I have the necessary battery voltage and DPO wires separated to hook up to the field wires, but I am worried that it may full field the alternator. The three loose wires next to the speedometer sensor are for the transfer case switch. The connector and switch for that is still in shipment. I never fixed that when I swapped from a NP232 to a NP242. The two unfinished connectors are waiting on confirmation on the alternator control setup. Future thinking: The "BOOST CTRL" connector has two DPO wires and a battery voltage wire to hook up to a boost control solenoid. The engine from my LJ with the torn up camshaft is sitting elsewhere being used for exhaust manifold mock up.

Welcome! I love seeing people take an interest in building diagnostic tools for older vehicles. :D

I am driving twelve hours up and bringing all my spare parts with me.

I knew I recognized that car! It is the first shot in the recent Regular Car Reviews video.

The supercharger included in the kit was originally designed to target around 3.6L. On the 4.0L it is meant to produce about 6 PSI of boost. So basically the original PSI drop from 3.6L to 4.0L basically becomes 0 PSI around the typical size of a stroker engine. I have all the copies of the instructions, but most of the installation issues with the prototype I worked out and documented.

I have been trying to selling for the past 1.66~ years. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1120251

Nope, it is just too small for the engine. I have plans for a turbocharger eventually. This is what the Haltech is really leading into.

I would gladly pay over $5,000 for a great condition rust free late XJ with 40,000 miles on it. All the links I am finding locally are for modified examples though.

I am fairly sure I put a 0630 casting on there. Stock, no special clean up or anything done. It was rebuilt so the head was shaved slightly making the combustion chamber smaller which bumped the compression ratio slightly.

Correct, six post side. The connector pin out is the same as the XJ coil rail.

After a long break I have tackled mounting the coil pack. There is enough room to get to the spark plugs and install wires. I am in between coats of paint right now while I make this post.

Yep, I set it to be able to account for the cable stretching. I needed 1/8" more of travel on the cable so the pedal is just barely not bottoming out against the full travel. I can set the voltages in the Haltech to make 100% throttle a little earlier.

The accelerator position pedal is finished. The hole in the firewall had to be enlarged, but afterwards the other modifications to the transmission valve cable worked out great. Hooking the TVC up to the pedal is a little silly, but it saves a lot of engineering of a CAN bus device to actuate a solenoid on the transmission.

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I gave up on more shielding when I had that issue initially and moved the catalytic converter back to under the bed and extended the oxygen sensor wires. A muffler shop could probably do it for cheap too.

I wrapped up the GM accelerator position pedal(APP) modifications tonight. There is one more I might do that involves the transmission kick down cable, but I have to see what I am doing with the transmission programming first. The pedal position is amazing now since I could customize it anywhere I wished it to be.

The end mill snapped in half during the final cut out of the piece so I ended up having to some manual cutting and sanding to finish the piece. This was before more sanding and polishing. Progress on the wiring harness. I need to get some wire tie downs to utilize in the now empty bolt holes from the throttle linkage bracket.

The fuel cell comes with a metal cover that I should put over it to protect the rubber and plastic pieces from UV damage. Otherwise, it works fine.

Do you have a Home Depot near you? They sell 14 and 16 gauge wires in multiple colors meant for wiring trailers. It is good quality and what I used for the rear lights.