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Dug up these pictures of the gasket on my MJ. Perhaps they may be useful for reference

Looking good! What about using two pieces of foam and bonding them?

I couldn’t bring myself to run those horrible looking airbag steering wheels when I’d considered the swap previously but now I see they can be swapped with a nicer wheel. I may end up just going doors and center console perhaps?? Not sure yet. I’m thinking though that if I do go this route, I’ll keep my painless wiring setup and integrate the necessary connection with the newer dash. Probably swap the cluster to the Dakota digital setup so I can delete the ecu for the gauges. Would be neat if a template could be made that one could just overlay on the firewall for this swap. I think the pictures referenced above is going to be super helpful for sure. If I keep my painless wiring setup, I’m assuming I may be able to do fewer firewall mods as I wouldn’t be using the XJ wiring aside from some of the connectors.

This was another neat option o had looked at for my build: https://www.chasebays.com/collections/universal-chase-bays/products/chase-bays-windshield-washer-reservoir-intercooler-sprayer

Do you think it’s easier to patch in the necessary sections or just transplant a big chunk of the firewall? I always wanted to go that route on mine and swap the 97+ dash, doors and center console (maybe I still should???). I do dislike the look of the later style door mirrors though

I’ve ran all 3 sets of available valving on the 5125’s for the rear. I never found one that was decent for the MJ. As for rear shock selection, measure the compressed and full droop lengths along with the static ride height. Typically 60% up travel from static height is ideal though it can vary depending on the application. If I wasn’t running a custom valved shock specific to the truck, then I’d probably go for with some rancho 5000 series or some oem spec shocks from Monroe or similar. The 5125’s can be had in decent valving for the front (255/70) but they can’t react correctly to the light weight rear imo, so traveling down hill on a windy, rough road feels like the tail end will not stay planted unless the bed has some substantial weight.

6=8

How is that radiator/fan setup doing for operating temps?

I’d second the Klipsch if you don’t have an iPhone. Sound quality is relatively poor on every set of wireless earbuds I’ve ever heard. Far too much compression and digital equalization for my tastes. However, earbuds aren’t really about true sound quality, they are a convenience piece. So find what best fits your ears nice and snug without any pain. Something with long battery life and music controls built into the them would be great.

All the links above are for the same product. The tj boot works well. My trans cover isn’t standard but here is how it looks on mine. I used some black rtv for additional sealing along with stainless metal roofing screws that come with the captured sealing washers.

Notice the oscilloscope readings below. Blue line is “cam”, orange pulses are crank. This is on an HO though. I’ve always referred to “sync generators” as cam sensors since the cam directly drives this sensor. This allows for sequential vs un-timed batch firing.

WOW, those look horrible. Yeah, just grab them from TW. You may also need a longer center pin.

Just as a quick note: I harvested all the connectors from my stock 90 dash, chasis and engine harness. I have them all bagged and will take pictures of them all in detail at some point and add information regarding each one along with the source hopefully.

Did this all start when you swapped injectors or were you experiencing these issues before the swap? Cam and/or crank sensors come to mind. Instead of grouping all issues together and trying to find a single source, try isolating one of them and tracking it down. For instance, with a bad idle, you could try disconnecting injectors one at a time and see if you notice a difference.

I also have a 5.5mm socket but what size are the actual threads?