2WD MJ BA10/5 -> 4WD XJ AW4/NP231/Dana30?

[SuperWade2]

OK, I'm maybe changing again on my newly acquired 87 MJ...

 

I have the opportunity to procure, VERY cheaply (maybe free), a AW4 Auto, NP231, and Front D30 (with 3.07's) that match my current rear MJ D35.

 

The guy is pulling the 4.0L out of a 92or 93 XJ to install in a CJ (No idea how or why), and he basically said I could have the rest.

 

How hard is the conversion from 5Spd (BA10/5) to an Auto (AW4), and do I have to worry since this is from a "newer" XJ with the HO 4.0L vs my non-Ho '87 MJ 4.0L.

 

Thanks

SW2

[VA Jim]

I did this swap last year and it is a lot of work. You'll have to swap the wireing harness to get the hookup for the trans. computer. You'll also need the tps for the auto. Also I think most of the automatics had .355 dif gears. The front xj driveshaft will work, but not sure about the length on the 2wd mj rear shaft.

[SuperWade2]

I did this swap last year and it is a lot of work. You'll have to swap the wireing harness to get the hookup for the trans. computer. You'll also need the tps for the auto. Also I think most of the automatics had .355 dif gears. The front xj driveshaft will work, but not sure about the length on the 2wd mj rear shaft.

 

Crap, I was afraid of that.. "Lots of work" for a guy who's never so much as dropped a tranny or T-Case or anything doesn't sound like a lot of fun... I did some searches and the descriptions and steps included quite a few words and acronyms that I don't know or understand... Maybe out of my league...

 

Of course if I get the Tranny/T-Case/Axle for next to nothing (not 100% sure on $$$), then I guess if I have to pay to get some of the stuff done, or buy some "new" parts to complete the swap, I might still be not too bad.

 

To be honest (and I might get hammered for it)... in my TJ, I LOVE my Auto and wouldn't drive a Manual for heavy offroading...But that's just how I roll. To each thier own I guess when it comes to Manual vs. Auto...

 

Sw2

[JeepcoMJ]

you won't need to swap the harness. a bit of creative wiring will be needed, but i will get you the diagrams to match.

 

you will need a renix-era automatic flexplate as the HO one will have different timing marks for the CPS to pick up on so it won't run (ask me how i know :headpop: )

 

you'll need to have your 2wd rear shaft shortened to fit

 

just pull the tranny you've got, mount this one up in there, swap pedal assemblies, install auto shifter (you'll need to disassemble this yourself to know what you'll need...but basically everything under the carpet in that area is necessary) install front axle and driveshaft and transfercase linkages.

 

the carpet will need to be out for this project. this requires removing lower trim panels, which also means B-pillars should come out

 

scale of 1 to 10, this is around a 6.5 difficulty. the wiring will be easy, i can walk you through it but basically you just need to hard-wire the NSS from the aw4 to the engine harness. that's about the only issue you'll have.

[SuperWade2]

Thanks Pat... the way you describe it sounds very do-able (with probably 100 ?'s on here with tons of pics through the process....)

 

I was getting ready to take the carpet out anyhow...it isn't in great shape (maybe tonight if I get around to it)... that's something I think I can handle without asking too many silly questions... I'm guessing that replacement Black Carpet in decent shape isn't easy to come by, so this set might have to do for now with the black floor mats.

 

It might be a couple weeks until I can get the tranny/tcase/axle, so I guess I have that much time to get the Tranny and Front Axle (well, front tube, not really an axle) taken out of mine (since I don't really know how to do either one of those, it should take about that long... :eek:

[JeepcoMJ]

you're welcome. :cheers:

[Eagle]

A 92 or 93 will have the Chrysler ignition/injection system. That takes a different CPS, so the flex plate on that motor won't work in your Renix vehicle. But -- putting a new flex plate on while the engine is out of the vehicle is perhaps good insurance anyway.

[pingpong]

PAt,

Can you explain this hard wiring of the NSS? I am getting ready to do this swap on a XJ I own, but will have a MJ tailgat when done :eek:

[SuperWade2]

.....

[JeepcoMJ]

PAt,

Can you explain this hard wiring of the NSS? I am getting ready to do this swap on a XJ I own, but will have a MJ tailgat when done :eek:

 

I've not yet looked into it.

 

shoot me a pm about it and I'll give you the resources to do it yourself :D

[SuperWade2]

Any general advice for dropping the tranny...by myself, without a tranny jack? I have the Rear Driveshaft out and I think everything disconnected (cables, stick shifter, etc) from the tranny as best I can tell... I unbolted the Exhaust from the Manifold, but it appeared to be "rusted" on and I didn't want to bust it, so the whole exhaust is on still. I have 6 Ton Jack stands at the front and rear of the tranny and a 3 ton Floor Jack in the middle (with a 4x4 since my jack isn't tall enough). I unbolted the 8 bolts to the cross member to the frame, but not the ones connecting the tranny directly to the cross member (since they seemed like a pain in the butt to remove and I was hoping I could drop the tranny while still connected to the member.)

 

Oh Yah, I drained the tranny fluid before I started anything...what I pain... I had to grind down a Hex socket thing I had so it was Square and fit the drain plug hole... took forever with a Dremel and grinding stone.

 

I haven't yet unbolted the tranny from the engine, but assuming I've done everything else I need first. So if I unbolt and then the tranny droops down to sit on the Jack Stands, how much does it weigh and will I be able to slide it back and off the stands and onto the floor by myself?

 

Anything big I'm missing, or words of wisdom before I start back up tomorrow?

 

Wade

[Wildman]

The exhaust down pipe is on the manifold with a 'gasket' so you might need to pry it apart. Having the exhaust off is better than working around it :brows:

 

I really suggest you get this Jack

The 2wd transmission weights about 60 pounds, and with the TC add about another 30 pounds. The reason I say to get this transmission jack, is you will need the floor jack to support the engine while your removing the trans, So, you need like 2 jacks to do this job by your self.

 

Also, as you lower the transmission / engine, you need to watch that the fan blades don't touch the radiator, after you remove the trans, you can put a block of wood between the engine and the firewall to help support the engine.

 

You can leave the transmission cross member support on but it just gets in the way while removing. The right jack will help to remove it in place.

 

For the drain plugs, too late for you now, but These are available.

 

Once you have the jack under the transmission, supported, and remove the cross member, you lower the trans/engine low enough to remove the CPS, and the top bolts, which are External torx bolts, Like This And then remove the 2 front 'screws' that hold the dust plate in place, the 2 bottom bolts and nuts, and remove the side bolts, then pry the trans back, and out.

 

Using the proper jack helps a lot, and you will see where you need the floor jack to adjust the engine up and down, so you really need the 2 jacks to do this job.

 

While the trans is out, it's also a good time to change out the RMS and oil pan gasket :brows:

[maddzz1]

PAt,

Can you explain this hard wiring of the NSS? I am getting ready to do this swap on a XJ I own, but will have a MJ tailgat when done :eek:

 

That should look good. I was reading a thread last night and the guy chopped off the top/back of his xj and added a cage and an mj taigate. looks sweet.

[SuperWade2]

The exhaust down pipe is on the manifold with a 'gasket' so you might need to pry it apart. Having the exhaust off is better than working around it :brows:

 

I really suggest you get this Jack

The 2wd transmission weights about 60 pounds, and with the TC add about another 30 pounds. The reason I say to get this transmission jack, is you will need the floor jack to support the engine while your removing the trans, So, you need like 2 jacks to do this job by your self.

 

Also, as you lower the transmission / engine, you need to watch that the fan blades don't touch the radiator, after you remove the trans, you can put a block of wood between the engine and the firewall to help support the engine.

 

You can leave the transmission cross member support on but it just gets in the way while removing. The right jack will help to remove it in place.

 

For the drain plugs, too late for you now, but These are available.

 

Once you have the jack under the transmission, supported, and remove the cross member, you lower the trans/engine low enough to remove the CPS, and the top bolts, which are External torx bolts, Like This And then remove the 2 front 'screws' that hold the dust plate in place, the 2 bottom bolts and nuts, and remove the side bolts, then pry the trans back, and out.

 

Using the proper jack helps a lot, and you will see where you need the floor jack to adjust the engine up and down, so you really need the 2 jacks to do this job.

 

While the trans is out, it's also a good time to change out the RMS and oil pan gasket :brows:

 

Thanks for the info Wildman! Now if the nearest Harbor Freight wasn't over an hour a way, so It's cheaper to pay for shipping... Looks like I should get my order in now...

[mjeff87]

If you're doing this solo, I'd recommend you pull the TC off the tranny first......it really throws off the COG once the tranny is free of the engine. For the CPS, you can leave it bolted to the tranny when removing (unless you want to skinny your arms up there and pull it), just disconnect the wiring harness first. Once the tranny is on the ground you can pull the sensor.

 

Be safe!

 

Jeff

[SuperWade2]

If you're doing this solo, I'd recommend you pull the TC off the tranny first......it really throws off the COG once the tranny is free of the engine. For the CPS, you can leave it bolted to the tranny when removing (unless you want to skinny your arms up there and pull it), just disconnect the wiring harness first. Once the tranny is on the ground you can pull the sensor.

 

Be safe!

 

Jeff

 

Umm... I don't think I have have TC... its 2WD..

[mjeff87]

I always miss the minor details.....

 

:D

 

Jeff

[SuperWade2]

The exhaust down pipe is on the manifold with a 'gasket' so you might need to pry it apart. Having the exhaust off is better than working around it :brows:

 

I really suggest you get this Jack

The 2wd transmission weights about 60 pounds, and with the TC add about another 30 pounds. The reason I say to get this transmission jack, is you will need the floor jack to support the engine while your removing the trans, So, you need like 2 jacks to do this job by your self.

 

Also, as you lower the transmission / engine, you need to watch that the fan blades don't touch the radiator, after you remove the trans, you can put a block of wood between the engine and the firewall to help support the engine.

 

You can leave the transmission cross member support on but it just gets in the way while removing. The right jack will help to remove it in place.

 

For the drain plugs, too late for you now, but These are available.

 

Once you have the jack under the transmission, supported, and remove the cross member, you lower the trans/engine low enough to remove the CPS, and the top bolts, which are External torx bolts, Like This And then remove the 2 front 'screws' that hold the dust plate in place, the 2 bottom bolts and nuts, and remove the side bolts, then pry the trans back, and out.

 

Using the proper jack helps a lot, and you will see where you need the floor jack to adjust the engine up and down, so you really need the 2 jacks to do this job.

 

While the trans is out, it's also a good time to change out the RMS and oil pan gasket :brows:

 

So I ordered me some new stuff from Harbor Freight and will just have to wait for it all to show up in the mail (at least I'm not in a rush!).... While I'm waiting for this stuff is there any problem with me yanking my Front End out since I'll be installing a new D30 when I install the AW4/NP231 to work towards the 4WD Conversion.I don't' really need that tube as long as I'm not moving the Truck before the swap...

 

Also, will I be better off getting my 2WD Rear Drive shaft shortened (it sure looks goofy, Big Huge (Like 6" in Diameter) Thick Tube thing compared to my 89 with 4wd), or just trying to find a stock one of the guys on here that has a 4WD Front/Rear Driveshaft for a SWB that they would part with.

[Pete M]

Just get your 2wd shaft shortened. Sounds like you have the rubber isolator version. There is nothing wrong with using it, but they will have to shorten the end opposite of the rubber. (personally I think it help lessen vibrations. I reused my isolator shaft and have no noticeable vibrations from it, even though it wasn't balanced after the cutting)

[mvusse]

X2

 

Having your existing drive shaft shortened is probably the cheapest and easiest way to go.

 

And if possible, just to be sure, you may want to have it balanced. May not be necessary, but it can't hurt.

[Wildman]

 

So I ordered me some new stuff from Harbor Freight and will just have to wait for it all to show up in the mail (at least I'm not in a rush!).... While I'm waiting for this stuff is there any problem with me yanking my Front End out since I'll be installing a new D30 when I install the AW4/NP231 to work towards the 4WD Conversion.I don't' really need that tube as long as I'm not moving the Truck before the swap...

 

Also, will I be better off getting my 2WD Rear Drive shaft shortened (it sure looks goofy, Big Huge (Like 6" in Diameter) Thick Tube thing compared to my 89 with 4wd), or just trying to find a stock one of the guys on here that has a 4WD Front/Rear Driveshaft for a SWB that they would part with.

 

Yea, I don't see a problem with dropping the front axle out while your waiting for New Tools :D

 

Just make sure the frame is support Very Good, and take that old 2wd tube out of there. Good for a long boat anchor, or scrap is paying good now. There is only the Calipers on the 2wd axle that can be used with a D30 axle. The hubs, rotors are all different.

 

One thing you should really look at while the front axle is out of there, replace the oil pan gasket, and the rear main seal, with out the front axle in place, the pan can drop straight down, and you don't need to work it around the axle and the oil pump :D Makes it a quick and easy job.....now.

 

Are you in need of a front drive shaft??? That I would have if no one else closer to you can get to you.

 

I agree with having your existing rear drive shaft cut down, the only rear drive shafts I have here are lwb ones, I might have a swb.......got to look on the pile. The problem would be shipping $$$.

 

If you have a 'Fleet Pride' in your area, they can cut and balance the drive shaft for you.....or any other place that dose that type of work.

 

After you posted the pictures of your "New" MJ with the bad transmission, I'm really glad to see you going this route and saving another MJ from the scrap pile :D As far as finding a good engine for replacing the MJ you had, there are always many 'cheep' XJ around for that. If you were closer......I have a couple low mileage engines in the shop.....our problem around here is the trucks rust away with 60k on the clock, and the engines are not even broken in yet :cry: But.....shipping would kill that deal.

[watchamakalit]

I am getting ready to do the same swap. Any input on the NSS issue?