Rookie Water Pump Replacement

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

At my doctor appointment this morning I looked out to the parking lot and there was coolant dripping from my front end.  I just replaced the lower hose 2 weeks ago cause the old one split, so this was unexpected.  Now I have a chirping water pump.  I don't see leaking from the new hose.  A few questions before I attempt the replacement that I didn't find already answered here.

 

I do I need to remove the mechanical fan?  I know the electric one will need to come out, and I think the answer is yes, but I don't know for sure since it looks like it might be possible to get the pump replaced without removing that fan.  If so can I assume the fan is symmetrical and I don't have to try and match the orientation to put it back?

 

There's a pulley on the water pump, the new pump I have don't have this so clearly I need to transfer this, and I assume doing it is easier with the pump still installed, an possible at least for the removal it will be easier to knock loose the bolts while the belt is still on helping things stay put while I try to remove them.

 

When I replaced the lower hose I had to put in somewhere between 6-8 quarts of fluid.  I have noticed the fluid color has remained looking clean since then.  Actually since a while before that as well.  Can I assume that if the coolant still looks clean with a month or more use, that flushing the system is not a critical need, possible not even a minor need?  The main reason I ask it that the radiator is not original and this one has no drain plug, so flushing become a whole lot more messy.

 

Can someone direct me to torque specs on the bolts I will been to remove?

 

Lastly, any other words of wisdom from the experts before I embark on this task?

 

Thanks in advance

[89 MJ]

You do need to remove the mechanical fan. The mount for it is symmetrical, so no need to worry there. 
 

Correct on the pulley as well. 
 

I would not flush the system if the coolant appears to be in good shape. 
 

Before you start this, I strongly recommend spraying the engine with degreaser and pressure washing, being careful of electronics. 

[llhat]

could the 'chirp' be the belt contaminated with coolant?...   but if you've seen the drip,  then the w p seal is probably gone.

been too many years since I've done mine...   I'll let someone else chime in... good luck.

[derf]

The fans are in the way so I'd pull them.

 

A couple of things to do while you are in there:

1.  Replace the thermostat.  The coolant is drained and you have everything out of the way so now is the time for that.

2.  Replace the rest of the hoses if you haven't already.  If one was bad, it's likely others need to be replaced as well.

3.  Check the belt and replace as needed.

4.  Check the idler pulley and fan pulley.  Replace if they're not spinning smoothly.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

8 minutes ago, 89 MJ said:

You do need to remove the mechanical fan. The mount for it is symmetrical, so no need to worry there. 
 

Correct on the pulley as well. 
 

I would not flush the system if the coolant appears to be in good shape. 
 

Before you start this, I strongly recommend spraying the engine with degreaser and pressure washing, being careful of electronics. 

Ah I do have some de-greaser, but no pressure washer.  I have degreased it, somewhat, a few times recently before and after replacing the valve cover gasket and an injector, so it's not bad but could still use a bit right in the area of the pump.

[89 MJ]

A coin op car wash would work instead of a pressure washer

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

8 minutes ago, llhat said:

could the 'chirp' be the belt contaminated with coolant?...   but if you've seen the drip,  then the w p seal is probably gone.

been too many years since I've done mine...   I'll let someone else chime in... good luck.

I had a chirping belt at first after I replaced my lower hose due to some coolant but I sprayed it down with some soapy water and rinsed it, and after it dried the squeak stopped, but this sounds more like clicking.  What is a bit odd though is that I didn't loose all that much based on the level in the overflow tank.  My doctor gave me a bag of water so I could top it off before driving home, and when I got home the drip was not there anymore, and the coolant level was about the same, but I do still hear the sound, and the pitch definitely follows the RPMs, does that sound more like the pump if it follows RPMs

 

[derf]

1 minute ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

I had a chirping belt at first after I replaced my lower hose due to some coolant but I sprayed it down with some soapy water and rinsed it, and after it dried the squeak stopped, but this sounds more like clicking.  What is a bit odd though is that I didn't loose all that much based on the level in the overflow tank.  My doctor gave me a bag of water so I could top it off before driving home, and when I got home the drip was not there anymore, and the coolant level was about the same, but I do still hear the sound, and the pitch definitely follows the RPMs, does that sound more like the pump if it follows RPMs

 

Could be an idler pulley bearing.  Those do go bad eventually.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

Aren't there special tools needed to take off and install pulleys?

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

The fan cowl seems to be impossible to get out of there with the fan on short of cutting it in half.  At least that is the way it seems to me.

[derf]

9 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

Aren't there special tools needed to take off and install pulleys?

Shouldn't be.  They're just bolted to a bracket.  Sometimes the bolt is a reverse thread.

 

You do need a special tool to pull the pulley off the power steering pump.  But the others are just regular bolts.

[89 MJ]

1 hour ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

The fan cowl seems to be impossible to get out of there with the fan on short of cutting it in half.  At least that is the way it seems to me.

You have to do them both at the same time

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

There's a short piece of pipe for the top hose connection.  I hope I can reuse the one I have, but if not, is this a standard part I should be able to get at the autozone in walking distance?  Also I assume I need to put some type of thread goo on there, I have plumbers tape but I suspect it can't handle the temps, so what do I use on this?  Can I use the same RTV I will be putting on the mating surface when I install the new pump?  

 

 

[fiatslug87]

I’ve been using the tube for the HO and cut the hose shorter. Just make sure it’s lined up correctly before installing the pump.

 

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

I like that idea although it looks like if I want to finish tomorrow I need to manage to salvage and reuse cause none of the close by auto parts outlets stock these, at least that's what they tell me on the phone.  What are you using for tape?

 

[fiatslug87]

When I reused the straight pipe I used silicone sealant, the HO ones come with that red sealant.

[GonzoTheGreat]

I believe its 3/8 NPT and you can get a new piece of pipe the same length with the threads already cut on both ends at home depot. The threads on the hose end should keep the hose from sliding off, but you might want to double clamp it.

 

I've used teflon tape with no problems. Teflon is good 'til like 400C or something like that, so coolant temps are no problem.

 

That's how my '88 was when I got it, and I didn't know until 3 years later when I took the hose off to redo the cooling system, but since it worked, I just kept the pipe.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

I like the home depot option if I can't reuse.  Since I'll need to go there anyway maybe I'll look to see if they have any high temp Teflon, just in case.

[derf]

Auto parts store will have tubes of thread sealant.  Usually next to the RTV and threadlocker.

[75sv1]

The nuts for the water pump pulley and the mechanical fan, I use a large flat bladed screw driver  between two of the nuts. It keep the pulley(s) from rotating. I use a box end wrench. 

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

13 minutes ago, 75sv1 said:

The nuts for the water pump pulley and the mechanical fan, I use a large flat bladed screw driver  between two of the nuts. It keep the pulley(s) from rotating. I use a box end wrench. 

I am trying to visualize what you are saying.... Are you saying you hold the screwdriver in one hand bracing against two of the nuts while you tighten the others with the other hand?

[AZJeff]

30 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

I am trying to visualize what you are saying.... Are you saying you hold the screwdriver in one hand bracing against two of the nuts while you tighten the others with the other hand?

That is exactly how I do it.  I have a long thin screwdriver (about the same diameter as the studs on the fan) that I place between two of the nuts to hold the pulley from turning.  Then I put a wrench to another one of the four nuts.  Do this working your way around the pulley.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

58 minutes ago, 75sv1 said:

The nuts for the water pump pulley and the mechanical fan, I use a large flat bladed screw driver  between two of the nuts. It keep the pulley(s) from rotating. I use a box end wrench. 

 

10 minutes ago, AZJeff said:

That is exactly how I do it.  I have a long thin screwdriver (about the same diameter as the studs on the fan) that I place between two of the nuts to hold the pulley from turning.  Then I put a wrench to another one of the four nuts.  Do this working your way around the pulley.

Perfect!

 

I just watched a you tube video for this on a 98 Cherokee XJ, looks very similar but I never got a good look at the AC area.  This guy didn't remove the AC compressor, my Haynes say the AC compressor has to be disconnected.  So should I expect to have to dismount the compressor?

 

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

Tried to add a link to the youtube, you see above how that worked.  Attempting to do it again..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWJZZiy5F8M

 

[75sv1]

For both tightening and loosening of the nuts. I also like a screwdriver with a square or hex shaft. Gives a flat to go against the nut(s).