Reproducing roll bar with 2.5" tubing.

[derf]

I've had an idea rattling around in my head about reproducing a factory style roll bar.

 

I have a tubing bender (JD squared) that I'm going to use to build a custom cage for another project, along with a few other things.

 

I got the bright idea to take a factory rollbar and make what amounts to copies.  Easy enough, right?

 

Well, there's one snag.  The biggest die I can get only fits 2.5" tubing.  The tool doesn't support bigger.  The factory bar is 3" tubing.

 

I know I won't mind when I build mine.  But I know some of you out there would love for someone like me to offer them up for sale.

 

Question is, would people want them if they were made out of smaller tubing?  Let me know your thoughts...

[JZLAJeep]

Yes! Ship with some assembly required (i.e. welding, painting)?

[derf]

I'm still thinking about ways to make shipping easier and cheaper.

 

It'll probably have to be shipped truck freight on a pallet.  But if I can ship with the legs not welded on, it would likely save some on the cost.

 

I could also do a segmeted hoop with some sleeves at the joints so it could fit in a box.  I could cut it between the bends.  That would require more welding and finishing.  But it would be much easier and cheaper to ship.

[Pete M]

the way I always envisioned it was to make a left and right side that gets welded together (with a sleeve inside at the joint).  that way you only need to make 2 different parts (half-a-hoop and a leg) and just make 2 of each.

[derf]

3 hours ago, Pete M said:

the way I always envisioned it was to make a left and right side that gets welded together (with a sleeve inside at the joint).  that way you only need to make 2 different parts (half-a-hoop and a leg) and just make 2 of each.

Yeah, though it would probably have to be an uneven split at the top.  There is a slight bend in the center top.  So the cut would have to be away from there to one side or the other.

 

One thought is to make the main hoop in 3 pieces.  The top section would have the center bend and the two outside bends going down.  And cut maybe 3-5" at least down from those bends.  Or probably right where the back legs attach.  Then you'd have two pieces from the floor to the top bar.

 

The user would have to weld 5 total segments together.  The 3 pieces of the hoop and the stringers going back to the wheel well.

[Pete M]

I wouldn't even attempt the upper bend.  it's not going to be an identical-copy anyway, so in my mind there's no real point to it.

[derf]

4 minutes ago, Pete M said:

I wouldn't even attempt the upper bend.  it's not going to be an identical-copy anyway, so in my mind there's no real point to it.

Fair point.  I can try it both ways.  It may be good enough without or it may not look right.

 

I was thinking about packaging for shipping as I thought about multiple sleeved pieces.  If I cut it in 2, there are 2 pieces with a 90-ish degree bend taking up a lot of space in 2 dimensions.  With 3 pieces, it still takes up room but may be a little more compact for shipping purposes.

 

It's all speculation at this point though.  I still need to get the die and some tubing to practice with first.

[ghetdjc320]

Out of curiosity, why not just fab this from 3" 16 gauge exhaust tubing with mandrel bends? That way it will look like a factory part. Simple enough to either tig or mig and smooth out the welds. I also like Pete's idea of a 2 piece design that could be either welded or bolted together for those that don't have access to a welder. 

[fiatslug87]

8 minutes ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Out of curiosity, why not just fab this from 3" 16 gauge exhaust tubing with mandrel bends? That way it will look like a factory part.

The largest die his equipment can take is 2.5”.

[ghetdjc320]

2 hours ago, fiatslug87 said:

The largest die his equipment can take is 2.5”.

I'm suggesting not doing any bending but rather, using mandrel bent pieces and welding them together similar to how a custom exhaust is fabed up. 

[derf]

2 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

I'm suggesting not doing any bending but rather, using mandrel bent pieces and welding them together similar to house a custom exhaust is fabed up. 

Because 16 gauge is way too thin for a legitimate roll bar.

 

I don't need super thick wall tubing.  Not even .120 wall.  But something thicker than 16 gauge is needed.

[ghetdjc320]

1 minute ago, derf said:

Because 16 gauge is way too thin for a legitimate roll bar.

 

I don't need super thick wall tubing.  Not even .120 wall.  But something thicker than 16 gauge is needed.

Makes sense. To me the roll bar has been an aesthetic piece, but I suppose it could provide some level of protection in the event of a rollover. 

[derf]

1 minute ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Makes sense. To me the roll bar has been an aesthetic piece, but I suppose it could provide some level of protection in the event of a rollover. 

That and exhaust tubing would dent way too easily just throwing stuff in the bed and letting it slide around.  Not to mention trying to attach anything to it or trying to use it as a tie-down for a load.

 

Cosmetic is fine but I want to be able to do truck stuff with my truck.