blown motor

[BEEDOSAUCE]

so my motor just blew up today a little over 300k miles, I was wondering just how reliable 4.6 strikers are and if they’re worth it? or is it worth just rebuilding the motor how it is 

[Smokeyyank]

I'd keep it stock. 

[Pete M]

define "blew up"

[BEEDOSAUCE]

3 hours ago, Pete M said:

define "blew up"

Sorry blew up might not be the right term, but it’s been running bad, overheating tons, burning oil, and just yesterday i started getting misfires

[Pete M]

I would address the issues one at a time before dropping change on an engine.  a new block isn't going to fix an old radiator or sparkplugs or sensor that needs adjusting. 

[BEEDOSAUCE]

1 hour ago, Pete M said:

I would address the issues one at a time before dropping change on an engine.  a new block isn't going to fix an old radiator or sparkplugs or sensor that needs adjusting. 

I just serviced it not too long ago, i replaced the radiator, installed electric fans, new spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. It was working fine until this week where everything just went downhill

[BEEDOSAUCE]

Just now, BEEDOSAUCE said:

I just serviced it not too long ago, i replaced the radiator, installed electric fans, new spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. It was working fine until this week where everything just went downhill

^ the truck would never overheat before either 

[89 MJ]

If I were you, I’d pull the engine, disassemble it, measure everything, and see if you could just get away with a dingleball hone, seals, and bearings. If that’s the case, I’d just do a stock rebuild. If the crank would need turned, then I’d go stroker, but that’s just me. 

[ghetdjc320]

6 hours ago, BEEDOSAUCE said:

installed electric fans

What fan setup did you install? 

[75sv1]

I'd do a compression check first.

[75sv1]

       As far as Stroker vs Stock. Depends on a lot of stuff. A Stocker can be built, modified or tuned to about 220 hp. There are various Stroker recipes. I have built and ran a bit a Mini-Stroker. I can't recommend that avenue. The low buck ones I see issues with that. Mainly, decking the block. I do have a Bishop-Buel assembled. $$. Presently looking at the Clegg Stage 2. About 9.3 CR. $1250 for the kit. No cam. The KB438c was changed a few years back. It has a closed combustion chamber. 

       The main constriction is the head. A good ported head is probably worth 15hp to 20 hp. I've done 2-3. Still working on what I think would work best. 

[BEEDOSAUCE]

19 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

What fan setup did you install? 

I have a guy in mexico who does custom setups but if i’m remembering correctly the fans are malibu’s

[BEEDOSAUCE]

10 hours ago, 75sv1 said:

       As far as Stroker vs Stock. Depends on a lot of stuff. A Stocker can be built, modified or tuned to about 220 hp. There are various Stroker recipes. I have built and ran a bit a Mini-Stroker. I can't recommend that avenue. The low buck ones I see issues with that. Mainly, decking the block. I do have a Bishop-Buel assembled. $$. Presently looking at the Clegg Stage 2. About 9.3 CR. $1250 for the kit. No cam. The KB438c was changed a few years back. It has a closed combustion chamber. 

       The main constriction is the head. A good ported head is probably worth 15hp to 20 hp. I've done 2-3. Still working on what I think would work best. 

have they been reliable so far? honestly i don’t want smth crazy just a little more power yknow

[Smokeyyank]

1 hour ago, BEEDOSAUCE said:

have they been reliable so far? honestly i don’t want smth crazy just a little more power yknow

Stock refresh and a regear. More umph and reliable. 

[Pete M]

check compression first.  maybe a leakdown too.   

[ghetdjc320]

If you have all electric fans, check your voltage with the engine running. 

[JeepSchmidt O'Guinness]

Didn't see it suggested yet, make sure ya have all the air out of the cooling system to address the overheating.

But comp/leakdown test are wise to make sure the overheating haven't caused head/piston damage.

[75sv1]

I would add, that during the compression check, after the first measurement if low, squirt oil in the cylinder. Test again. If higher , then probably valves no sealing.

As for the durability of a Stroker. I think there are a few with 100K or more and no complaints. Also, you can build them as Stock Plus. So, 9.3-9.5 static compression. 430-450 lift on the cam and stock Melling Springs. Also, with better materials and better oils than in the past, there is the possibility they will last longer.  

[golddigger]

I have a new rebuilt 4.0 in California for you   HO head  fresh build 

[BEEDOSAUCE]

On 5/23/2025 at 4:57 AM, ghetdjc320 said:

If you have all electric fans, check your voltage with the engine running. 

could that lead to the overheating issue? 

[ghetdjc320]

3 hours ago, BEEDOSAUCE said:

could that lead to the overheating issue? 

It can. The factory cooling system with the mechanical fan was sufficient when in new operating condition. Over time, coolant passages plug and cooling capacity diminishes. The mechanical fan could pull a much higher CFM than most e fans can. Converting to all e fans requires some careful planning and design changes. The aftermarket fan “upgrades” often struggle to provide adequate airflow. Then your cooling system becomes marginal. Add to that some corrosion/sludge in the coolant passages and/or an engine that has started to run lean and you have a recipe for overheating. Under hood temps in the engine bay are also difficult to manage so all these issue can compound and ruin an engine. Not saying that is what happened in your case but it does seem to be common. 

[89 MJ]

It is very typical for a clutch fan to flow more CFM than an electric fan. For me, part of my overheating issue was the water pump. 4.0s just don’t seem to like high rpms for long periods of time. 

[BEEDOSAUCE]

On 6/3/2025 at 7:13 PM, ghetdjc320 said:

It can. The factory cooling system with the mechanical fan was sufficient when in new operating condition. Over time, coolant passages plug and cooling capacity diminishes. The mechanical fan could pull a much higher CFM than most e fans can. Converting to all e fans requires some careful planning and design changes. The aftermarket fan “upgrades” often struggle to provide adequate airflow. Then your cooling system becomes marginal. Add to that some corrosion/sludge in the coolant passages and/or an engine that has started to run lean and you have a recipe for overheating. Under hood temps in the engine bay are also difficult to manage so all these issue can compound and ruin an engine. Not saying that is what happened in your case but it does seem to be common. 

wow, I think that just might be my issue. I originally added electric fans because my AC guy told me it would help with pushing in more air but after having them installed that’s when the truck started overheating

[ghetdjc320]

49 minutes ago, BEEDOSAUCE said:

wow, I think that just might be my issue. I originally added electric fans because my AC guy told me it would help with pushing in more air but after having them installed that’s when the truck started overheating

Stock electrical probably can’t supply enough amperage to keep a steady 14v to the fans when idling. The OE or similar design works best on most stock setups.

[75sv1]

I do have the triple fans on my 2000 XJ. I do not note any overheating. I used the Dirt Bound fan frame and SPAL 10 inch fans. I do mainly open road, some intown. I think it cools a bit better while driving. I do have my concerns if I was to be in heavy stop and Go traffic. Also, if wheeling. The stock electric fan does flow a lot better than the SPALs. I did look into running two stock electric fans. A RH and a LH drive. Couldn't come up with a RH drive fan. From memory, SPAL 10 inch ones are 800 cfm(??? maybe lower). Stock ones are 1100 to 1200 CFM. There are some SPAL 10 inch ones that put out a higher CFM. They don't quite fit.