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Harmonic balancer replacement


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I'd replace it, with any signs of rubber damage. Even just cracks. No need to take the radiator out. As said above, its doable. The pullers are cheap. But you need the installer tool. I'd check one of the parts stores for the loaner tools. Also, I put a white stripe between the two metal parts. That way I can see if the elastomer has failed, and is slipping.

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No need to pull the radiator, at least the harmonic balancer tool I rented managed to fit.  I do recommend a ratcheting box end wrench to drive the tool due to limited space.  

When you get the crank bolt out, don't forget to take off the 1/4" thick washer that's under the crank bolt head.  Mine was so stuck on from grime that it stayed in place causing me to spend considerable time trying to pull against that washer.

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9 hours ago, pizzaman09 said:

No need to pull the radiator, at least the harmonic balancer tool I rented managed to fit.  I do recommend a ratcheting box end wrench to drive the tool due to limited space.  

When you get the crank bolt out, don't forget to take off the 1/4" thick washer that's under the crank bolt head.  Mine was so stuck on from grime that it stayed in place causing me to spend considerable time trying to pull against that washer.

That is a VERY good tip.   Most guys who have never pulled a balancer don't know about the big washer under the bolt.  

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1 hour ago, AZJeff said:

That is a VERY good tip.   Most guys who have never pulled a balancer don't know about the big washer under the bolt.  

 

I'm a little less embarrassed knowing that other people have made this same mistake :doh:

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Don't forget you will need a tool to press the new one on, it doesn't just slip on easy, I used a steering wheel puller to do this (I'm crafty like that)

You only need to press it on to a point where the bolt grabs thread, but to avoid stripping out the threads press the new one on as far as you can.

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1 hour ago, Big_Mark said:

Don't forget you will need a tool to press the new one on, it doesn't just slip on easy, I used a steering wheel puller to do this (I'm crafty like that)

You only need to press it on to a point where the bolt grabs thread, but to avoid stripping out the threads press the new one on as far as you can.

I rented this tool from Advance Auto, it worked amazingly for removing and installing the harmonic balancer.... After I removed the thick washer.

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-kit-45-harmonic-puller-pulley-installer-kit-648616/9150003-p?product_channel=local&store=5323&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=5323&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlZixBhCoARIsAIC745D2t9WM-jfkHw63cgsLpmyUM37Q8C9D_cHC_seOqzkAN9P5oF8DkHIaAlorEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

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6 hours ago, Big_Mark said:

Don't forget you will need a tool to press the new one on, it doesn't just slip on easy, I used a steering wheel puller to do this (I'm crafty like that)

You only need to press it on to a point where the bolt grabs thread, but to avoid stripping out the threads press the new one on as far as you can.

This is another good point.  If you try to start pulling the new balancer on with the threads of the regular attaching bolt, it’s quite possible to STRIP THE THREADS IN THE CRANKSHAFT!
 

What I always do is to polish the end of the crank with fine emery cloth to remove rust and varnish.  Then clean the crank with brake cleaner or the like.  Also clean the inside of the hub of the new balancer with brake cleaner as well.

 

Then use some clean motor oil on the snout of the crank and the inside of the balancer hub.   Tap the balancer on to the hub to make sure it is started evenly.  I find that light taps with a hammer should get the balancer on far enough that the retaining bolt with thread in at least 4-5 turns.

 

omce the bolt is that deep (or more) the chance of stripping the threads is very low, and the bolt can draw the balancer on the rest of the way.

 

 

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