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Stuck wheels have me stuck


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I just picked up a 88 comanche!

There's a ton of problems with it but I gotta start somewhere. First I'd like to get it rolling, the rear wheels won't roll.

 

I gotta start with the fact that this is my first project car, and my first time working on something so old. so I know just a little about wrenchin but not much about rust.

I wrenched on a few things on my 07 GC like replacing the coilovers, driveshaft, and a subframe piece but none of it was ever this rusty.

 

Right now both rear wheels are locked up.... It took a couple hours for me and my buddy to safely slide it off a trailer using some 2x6 and and come along.

 

I've tried wd40, a propane torch, rust remover, a pry bar, and a sledge hammer. There isn't even so much as a seam between the lip of the rim and the hub. I'm starting to think It was welded on as a joke.

 

It's a Dana 35 axle.

 

What else can I try? I'm trying to keep it as cheap as reasonable, but I'm inching closer and closer to the angle grinder. I only spend 800 on the truck.

 

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Rust will do that for ya!

 

Can you get the brake line removed and parking brake cables undone at the top of the bed? If so, the hub is held in with 4 bolts. You could remove the shaft and wheel as one piece and have some better room to work.

 

Otherwise it's most likely coming down to lots more heat and PB or WD40 when it's super hot then a BFH... You should be able to hit all around the wheel on the front since you're just looking to loosen it up. Just wait until you get to the drums  :doh:

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I normally leave one lug nut on  And use a sledgehammer from behind the wheel knocking it outward . I used to work at a junkyard and never had one that I couldn’t get off. I understand that You said you used a sledge hammer... heat around the lip of the wheel first and then give it some big shots. You might bend in the lip of the rim but wheels are easily had . 

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Woah! Thanks for all the tips guys! I'll be sure to try these throughout the week.

PocketsEmptied, I didn't think that'd be possible, I'll definitely give it a try tomorrow!

fiatslug87, I've never heard of that before, I might give it a try.

Strokermjcomanche I might be lacking the muscle or space to properly swing a sledge from under the bed. I'll be sure to hammer it some more once i get more space by trying PocketsEmptied's tip. Any thoughts on Blue bottle vs Yellow bottle? Does it make a big difference I've only got a blue bottle.
eaglescout526. I've got a bottle ready as a last ditch. I guess if it eats the whole rim, then I've just got a good excuse to buy 4 new ones. haha.

 

I'll be sure to post progress here when I work at it!

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8 minutes ago, Jfcouper said:

Any thoughts on Blue bottle vs Yellow bottle? Does it make a big difference I've only got a blue bottle.

 

MAPP barely burns hotter than propane. It's fairly negligible for an application like this as they both get over 3,500ºF anyway. Blue works just as good.

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1 hour ago, Jfcouper said:

fiatslug87, I've never heard of that before, I might give it a try.

Back in 2007 Machinist Workshop Magazine studied some penetrants on rusted bolts/nuts and measured the torque required to break them free (averages listed):

None - 516 Ft. Lbs.
WD-40 - 238 Ft. Lbs.
PB Blaster - 214 Ft. Lbs.
Liquid Wrench - 127 Ft. Lbs.
Kano Kroil - 106 Ft. Lbs.
ATF/Acetone Mix - 53 Ft. Lbs.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I did it! Boy were they tough though.

I places some bricks between the wheels and then using the bottle jack I was able to put tension on them. Then a solid tap on the axleshaft knocked the tires loose!

 

They were pretty gross underneath.

 

I think the whole brake assembly is beyond saving, so I'll start another page on whether I should axle swap up to zj trailing-arm with disc brakes that I found at the local upull.

 

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