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1990 Comanche Eliminator


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17 hours ago, pizzaman09 said:

Thanks!  I believe they are late model XJ Cherokee wheels.  I also have the factory 10 hole Eliminator wheels.  I'm still trying to decide on tires for them, possibly more off road style or 200 treadwear autocross if I want to go really crazy.

That's what I thought they came from.  As long as you go with anything that's not whitewalls, the Eliminator will look fine!  

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4 hours ago, 87MJJeep said:

That's what I thought they came from.  As long as you go with anything that's not whitewalls, the Eliminator will look fine!  

Lol, I'm actually a fan of the one inch white stripe tires.  Have a set on my 99 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight and had a set on my 88 SporTruck.  That said, I agree, but a set of white letter all terrain tires would look great on the Eliminator.

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Fixed the lettering in the 4x4 shift indicator.  The original was missing the white within the lettering.  A replacement that Muncher generously gave me had better lettering but no brush.  I figured a piece of clear double sided tape and some white printer paper would do well and it has.

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1 hour ago, 89 MJ said:

I would be careful having the printer paper that close to the bulb that will emit that much heat. I doubt it will be an issue, just something to keep in mind. 

That thought definitely crossed my mind.  I figured if it didn't melt the original plastic, it wouldn't burns the paper.  Most plastics melt a little over 200 deg F, paper auto ignites around 450 deg F.

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40 minutes ago, pizzaman09 said:

That thought definitely crossed my mind.  I figured if it didn't melt the original plastic, it wouldn't burns the paper.  Most plastics melt a little over 200 deg F, paper auto ignites around 450 deg F.

I didn’t know that. You definitely should be fine then. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Received my interior carpets from Raybuck!  Ordered their 807 Dark Gray.  It's a hair darker than my factory charcoal interior, I really like it.  Eventually plan to have the full interior refinished.  Foot well carpets were added more to add a layer of protection to the floor.20220617_211732.JPG.61c8f0e72866da50614571457de63350.JPG

 

Also a photo next to my Coworker's very nice 01 Cherokee with 225k miles.20220526_122038.JPG.53e7934fd4c3fae7182c6bf14887a59e.JPG

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Updated the head unit to a new JVC KD-72BT replacing the barely working JVC KD-S670 that was previously installed.  This one matches the dash much better as it's black instead of silver, the user interface is much improved, and my twin brother and I can each pair our phones to it.  All quite exciting.  Sounds brilliant.

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On 6/7/2022 at 8:28 PM, pizzaman09 said:

Fixed the lettering in the 4x4 shift indicator.  The original was missing the white within the lettering.  A replacement that Muncher generously gave me had better lettering but no brush.  I figured a piece of clear double sided tape and some white printer paper would do well and it has.

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You can put another piece of paper there along with a blue colored page on the bottom. That will give you less bleed through and an original greenish glow from that incandescent bulb :L:

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3 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:


 

You can put another piece of paper there along with a blue colored page on the bottom. That will give you less bleed through and an original greenish glow from that incandescent bulb :L:

Interesting, so your suggestion is a second layer of blue paper to make it glow a bit more green.  I am not sure what it is supposed to look like, I haven't come across a good condition one to look at in person.

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4 hours ago, motownXJdad said:

cool thread, super nice truck!  I'm following, i also have a 1990 eliminator👍 

Thanks!

 

The most recent work has been knocking off a bit more of Cruiser's list.  Just cleaned the connections to the ignition coil, it's the original with 254k miles on it.  Also cleaned the head light connector and a few others.

 

Would quite like to do the CPS advance mod, but am not quite sure how to get it out.  I can see it, and can even get a hand on it but it's difficult.  I wonder if I can get it out by feel from the bottom.

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24 minutes ago, pizzaman09 said:

Interesting, so your suggestion is a second layer of blue paper to make it glow a bit more green.  I am not sure what it is supposed to look like, I haven't come across a good condition one to look at in person.


That’s right. Factory had a blue filter that helped produce a green tint that matched most of the rest of the lighting on the truck. That’s also why there are blue bulb covers in the instrument panel. 

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1 hour ago, pizzaman09 said:

Thanks!

 

The most recent work has been knocking off a bit more of Cruiser's list.  Just cleaned the connections to the ignition coil, it's the original with 254k miles on it.  Also cleaned the head light connector and a few others.

 

Would quite like to do the CPS advance mod, but am not quite sure how to get it out.  I can see it, and can even get a hand on it but it's difficult.  I wonder if I can get it out by feel from the bottom.

youll need a good rachet and enough extensions to reach the CPS from under the truck. use a Jack and you can remove the fasteners on the trans crossmember and you can lower it with the jack for a little more room. theres a few vids on youtube on how to change it that will probably demontrate it better than my explanation lol. 

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8 hours ago, motownXJdad said:

youll need a good rachet and enough extensions to reach the CPS from under the truck. use a Jack and you can remove the fasteners on the trans crossmember and you can lower it with the jack for a little more room. theres a few vids on youtube on how to change it that will probably demontrate it better than my explanation lol. 

I was wondering if it could be done from below.

I have long skinny arms and can sneak them past the intake runner and get my hand on the cps from the top, I wonder if that is an option.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The other day I rebuilt the driver's side vent window latch.  I used to kiwk set JB weld to build up material around the portion that sits in the window to prevent rotation in the window.  I let it set for 10 min prior to install to let it firm up and not actually bond to the window.  Additionally I made a gasket for the inside of the window to space out the assembly to allow a tight clamp on the window.  The button needed some adjusting and filing as many people in the past tried to rotate the latch without pushing the button in.  

Finally I added some weather stripping to the seals around the window to fill any gaps where air leaked in.  The interior is now much quieter at speed, probably the best daily usability mod I've done yet.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Haven't done much lately to the Comanche other than drive it.  Went camping and showed it at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix car show.

Did finally install the original 4.0Litre badge that was hanging out in the center console.

 

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This evening the Comanche received a new oil cap seal, and knock sensor.  I don't know if it needed the sensor but I feel better knowing it's been replaced.  Additionally I noticed that the rubber plug that connects the CAD to the vacuum lines was pretty loose, I'm going to need sort out what to do with that, I suspect it is part of the reason my CAD is so poor at engaging quickly.

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On 8/1/2022 at 7:09 PM, pizzaman09 said:

Additionally I noticed that the rubber plug that connects the CAD to the vacuum lines was pretty loose, I'm going to need sort out what to do with that, I suspect it is part of the reason my CAD is so poor at engaging quickly.

 

Pull the CAD off and put i back in reverse so it is always engaged let the transfer case manage 4wd. If you leave the vac lines connected or reconnect them (I'd have to double check mine) your 4x4 light should still work, mine does.

 

Nice truck btw.

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2 hours ago, Burke said:

 

Pull the CAD off and put i back in reverse so it is always engaged let the transfer case manage 4wd. If you leave the vac lines connected or reconnect them (I'd have to double check mine) your 4x4 light should still work, mine does.

 

Nice truck btw.

Why thank you.

 

So if I read your message correctly, you are saying to flip part of the mechanical shifter within the axle or to flip the incoming vacuum lines?

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If you remove the housing of the CAD, flip it 180* to reinstall it, it will force the sleeve gear that joins the split axle to be in the engaged position. 

 

There are multiple solutions in here,

 

This write up from @Pete M is mostly what I did https://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/ however, rather than moving the forks & dealing with the c-clips, I just did this (from different thread) https://comancheclub.com/topic/23850-front-cad-axle-couples/?do=findComment&comment=248992

 

Burke

 

 

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