1990 Comanche Eliminator

[pizzaman09]

I sorted out the trouble with the CAD!  I had played with putting some zip ties on the rubber connector at the vacuum diagram and apparently swapped the lines.  Now that I've swapped them back the system works perfectly on demand every time!  Very pleased, I must have fixed a vacuum leak with the zip tie as before the system worked but unreliably.  

 

I am a little disappointed that I've lost 2wd low, it's so useful for moving big trailers about and hooking up trailers.  I may put in a vacuum switch to make this an easy option.

[Bezerk1]

I was reading all your posts and I am so jealous, been looking for a MJ since 17, I lived in Berks Co . all my life and didn’t see this at the local Jeep dealers, pretty sure not at outten. But just curious was it Savage or L&B.  Nice find though, yeah you always regret getting rid of your first ride. Too bad your on other side of the state but maybe see you at Bantum one year

[pizzaman09]

Yep other corner of the state.  This one was poorly advertised and it took me. A lot of research to get hold of the guy selling it, I found out he had a little corner lot dealership and called directly instead of contacting on Craigslist.  It was in a little town called Bowmansville.  I have all the dealer records, I'll see which dealer it was.

 

I've been to Bantam once before, years before I owned a Jeep, might make it back some day.  I took mine to the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix this past year, was the only Comanche there.  

 

 

[pizzaman09]

Just found that my Pendaliner bed liner is a model number J60-BT if anyone is curious for future info.

[eaglescout526]

16 minutes ago, pizzaman09 said:

Just found that my Pendaliner bed liner is a model number J60-BT if anyone is curious for future info.

Too bad they don’t make them anymore. There wouldn’t be enough interested to even make 100 liners for us. 

[pizzaman09]

Cleaned up the corrosion in the bed, what ever came loose with a pressure washer got addressed.  Wire wheeled the rust. Used Loctite rust neutralizer before painting.  Also used trim paint to clean up the primer over spray that was on the bed liner.  Overall I was very pleased with how little rust there was for a 256k mile Pennsylvania truck.  I am fairly confident the bed liner has been installed since new since the date code is from 89.

[motownXJdad]

12 hours ago, pizzaman09 said:

Cleaned up the corrosion in the bed, what ever came loose with a pressure washer got addressed.  Wire wheeled the rust. Used Loctite rust neutralizer before painting.  Also used trim paint to clean up the primer over spray that was on the bed liner.  Overall I was very pleased with how little rust there was for a 256k mile Pennsylvania truck.  I am fairly confident the bed liner has been installed since new since the date code is from 89.

i just got the same bedliner from Pete M.👍

[pizzaman09]

36 minutes ago, motownXJdad said:

i just got the same bedliner from Pete M.👍

Coolio!  I quite like the liner save for two things, it blocks access to the factory tie down loops, and it is very slippery.

[motownXJdad]

37 minutes ago, pizzaman09 said:

Coolio!  I quite like the liner save for two things, it blocks access to the factory tie down loops, and it is very slippery.

i bet a 4" hole saw will cure the no access to the tie down loops👍

[pizzaman09]

On 9/4/2022 at 11:17 PM, motownXJdad said:

i bet a 4" hole saw will cure the no access to the tie down loops👍

That's the plan after I get a spray in liner to protect it further.  I don't need water going through those holes and sitting between the drop in liner and the bed.

[Pete M]

On 9/6/2022 at 8:42 PM, pizzaman09 said:

That's the plan after I get a spray in liner to protect it further.  I don't need water going through those holes and sitting between the drop in liner and the bed.

just make sure that the spray liner doesn't plug the little drain holes at the front of the bed.  

[pizzaman09]

5 hours ago, Pete M said:

just make sure that the spray liner doesn't plug the little drain holes at the front of the bed.  

Good advice 

[pizzaman09]

Flushed the heater core this evening.  Hooked a garden hose up forward and backwards while filling an old washer fluid bottle.  A decent amount of crud came out.  Probably flushed back and forth 10 times.

The heat now is much better, not perfect but better.  I bet I can use to chemicals to clean it more in the future.

 

Also received my clock panel REMII!  Have it hooked up but not yet installed in the dashboard.  I've definitely determined that my new Bosch O2 sensor is not very good.

[Pete M]

I would probably test the 02 manually using a multimeter before swapping it out.  just in case there's resistance in the harness that's skewing the results.   

[pizzaman09]

6 hours ago, Pete M said:

I would probably test the 02 manually using a multimeter before swapping it out.  just in case there's resistance in the harness that's skewing the results.   

Good thought.  I've done the sensor ground mods but I wouldn't be too surprised to find such and issue still.  It's a 32 year old 257k mile vehicle.

[pizzaman09]

Installed the REM II Clock panel this evening!  I was initially a bit disappointed in the quality of the 3D printed housing has it had some voids on the front.  It turns out the voids are hidden behind the dash so it doesn't matter!

 

I quite like that you can adjust the display to a custom color, I've tried to match the color of my JVC head unit.

[pizzaman09]

My truck apparently didn't have a vacuum check valve on the vacuum line connecting the HVAC controls / and 4x4 controls to the intake manifold.  I purchased a cheap doorman check valve and now everything works much better!  4x4 engages when you pull the lever and HVAC doesn't just change vent level when you hit the gas.

[pizzaman09]

Upgraded the front shocks to some Rancho RS5000X.  I'm at all stock ride height.  

The one front shock that came off had zero compression stiffness and just a little rebound.  The other shock had a small amount of compression stiffness and a slight bit of gas charge.  I expect this to be a noticable improvement.

[pizzaman09]

Knocked off a few things on the list the past few days.

Did a little rust prevention on the inside of the roof, put sound deadening on the roof and reupholstered the headliner and sun visors.

 

If you are interested in the repair and reupholstery of the visors see my thread here. https://comancheclub.com/topic/70640-sun-visor-reupholstery/

 

 Also fixed the burned out diode in the one B pillar.

 

Swapped in the cruise control speedometer cables and speed sensor in preparation to install the cruise control system.  I found one didn't need to remove the dash to unplug and reinstall the cable.  It was easy enough to feel up under the dash and remove it in place.  Plugging it in was also a sinch.

 

[Big_Mark]

How did you fix the diode?

[eaglescout526]

Cruise control will be the easiest pain in the rear you’ll encounter haha. Mostly where you’ll have fun is getting the harness through the firewall at the plug by the speedo cable and getting the weather proof grommet to sink into the hole right. 

[pizzaman09]

4 hours ago, Big_Mark said:

How did you fix the diode?

 

I snipped out the old one and soldered another in its place.  I have the modern replacement interior B pillar lights that are recommended by others on the forum.  The first time I installed one I had two of the wires swapped and shorted the diode, it then just acted like an solid wire.  

 

Now when I turn on the lift by tipping the lens, just that light turns on instead of it back feeding the wire harness and turning on all of the interior lights.

 

4 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

Cruise control will be the easiest pain in the rear you’ll encounter haha. Mostly where you’ll have fun is getting the harness through the firewall at the plug by the speedo cable and getting the weather proof grommet to sink into the hole right. 

I was actually dreading getting to the Vacuum canister the most, I tried to get to it in the summer and wasn't pleased on how to get the bumper corner cap off.

 

I also suspect I need to find another hole for my REM Ethernet cable as I'm currently using the cruise control wire harness hole for that.

[eaglescout526]

29 minutes ago, pizzaman09 said:

I also suspect I need to find another hole for my REM Ethernet cable as I'm currently using the cruise control wire harness hole for that.

Bumper isn’t too bad. Could always loosen the whole bumper but not take it off to get the reservoir behind where it needs to sit.

 

Now what you could do is cut the rubber grommet that the cruise harness goes through and set your Ethernet cable in with the cruise harness and get the plug to set snuggly in place. 

[pizzaman09]

2 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

Bumper isn’t too bad. Could always loosen the whole bumper but not take it off to get the reservoir behind where it needs to sit.

 

Now what you could do is cut the rubber grommet that the cruise harness goes through and set your Ethernet cable in with the cruise harness and get the plug to set snuggly in place. 

I like that idea with respect to the rubber grommet.  

[pizzaman09]

6 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

Bumper isn’t too bad. Could always loosen the whole bumper but not take it off to get the reservoir behind where it needs to sit.

 

Now what you could do is cut the rubber grommet that the cruise harness goes through and set your Ethernet cable in with the cruise harness and get the plug to set snuggly in place. 

Since I am installing this on a manual, does the dump valve with switch plug into this plug that is already in the truck on the factory non cruise harness?  Does this replace the brake plug on the cruise harness or do I still need to connect that to the brake switch?