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I want to preface this by saying that my Comanche right now is fine, but I am just having some performance issues with it. I shouldn’t even say they are issues, but they are things that are happening that I would rather did not happen. 
 

I’ll start with the leaf springs.

The leaf springs in my bastard pack in my 89 are all getting worn out. While I am in there replacing springs, I want to go 1.5” higher, for a total of 4.5” of lift and I want Metric Ton springs because when I get my own place, I’m going to have to use it a lot more for truck stuff, and I want it to be able to tow and haul a little bit better without squatting. 
I see that Hell Creek 4.5” springs are rated at 1440 pounds, does anyone have experience with those and towing and how do they ride empty?

Is there one brand that is better than the other?

I seem to recall one of the two companies offering Military wrap (also, I don’t know what that means, I just remember that it is good), but I couldn’t find it on either website. 

Does General spring make a Metric Ton 4.5” lift spring? If so, how does it tow and ride empty

 

Now on to front coil springs. 
My truck has a lean. The left front corner has always sat visibly lower than the right front. IIRC, when we measure it, it was .75” lower. If I am replacing the rear leafs, I might as well do front coils at the same time. Right now, I am looking at the Rubicon Express coils. 
Is there anything else out there that you folks would recommend? I know to avoid Rough Country like the plague. 
 

Let’s go for steering now. 

I am looking at a steering box brace because I currently have 30x10.50s and have no plans of going smaller, so I want to deal with this before it becomes and issue. I am looking at this Ironman 4x4 kit right now.
https://ironman4x4fab.com/products/xj-steering-box-brace?variant=29782948216920

Does anyone have any experience with it? 
I am not planning on ordering the drop brackets, but does anyone know if I would need the steering box spaced or not? I would assume that I would. 

 

Finally, for some engine upgrades. 
For whatever reason, it seems like my truck doesn’t wake up until 2,500-3,000 RPM. I have the 96 header and no crush pipe in the exhaust. No plugged cat either. I’m also running 4 holes injectors. I know the biggest performance upgrade is gearing, which is why I have 4.10s in my truck. Would the bored throttle body help wake up my truck too? I know more air usually equals more power. Of course, I’d take more power anywhere I can get it, but it would be especially nice lower in the power band. Long term, I want to run a standalone ECU, cam it and run boost through the engine, but boost and standalone just isn’t in the cards right now. I have already made a prior post about camming it that I plan to look back at. 
 

Thanks guys., and sorry about being long-winded. 

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OK, Bore TB, yes, makes an improvement. I have a 60mm on my 2000 XJ, I bored. I also thinned the throttle shaft on it, last trip. I seemed a bit better. I seem to notice the improvement on going up inclines. I also have the 99+ intake on my '98 XJ. 

4.10's with 31's is good. I do have the Ironman steering brace. It is beefy. I did run if for a while on my '98 XJ. Yes, get a steel steering box spacer. Iron Rock or Ironman are good ones. I think the Ironman one is a bit better. It has a 4th hole. 

     Have you replaced spark plugs and O2 sensor(s)? Wires, cap and rotor replace with brass ones.  Also, the temp sensor in the thermostat housing? Check fuel pressure? 

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2 hours ago, 75sv1 said:

OK, Bore TB, yes, makes an improvement. I have a 60mm on my 2000 XJ, I bored. I also thinned the throttle shaft on it, last trip. I seemed a bit better. I seem to notice the improvement on going up inclines. I also have the 99+ intake on my '98 XJ. 

4.10's with 31's is good. I do have the Ironman steering brace. It is beefy. I did run if for a while on my '98 XJ. Yes, get a steel steering box spacer. Iron Rock or Ironman are good ones. I think the Ironman one is a bit better. It has a 4th hole. 

     Have you replaced spark plugs and O2 sensor(s)? Wires, cap and rotor replace with brass ones.  Also, the temp sensor in the thermostat housing? Check fuel pressure? 

Thank you. 
Plugs, plug wires, and 02 sensors were new the the engine swap. Temp sender for the gauge is in the head now, if that’s what you are talking about, and is also new. Fuel pressure was good when we put the new engine in last December. The only pet that hasn’t really been messed with is the TB and it was even doggish prior to the engine change. 

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so barring anything actually broken with what ya got:  torque is found below ~2500, HP is found above.  that's just how our engines work.  if you wanna go fast, gotta rev it.   :D

 

but my advice is to slow down rather than throwing money at more HP.  contrary to what you might see on the freeways in Atlanta, driving on public roads is not a race. :driving:  There's no winning.  no trophy.  just a never-ending roll of the dice to see if today is the day that someone staring at their phone messes up your truck. :(  brakes are where I'd invest my cash.  :L:  and a bigger swaybar.  maybe a rear swaybar too.  whatever helps me dodge the idiots better.  :fistshake2:

 

 

try swapping the coils left to right.  it might not be the springs doing the lean. :(  but either way, RE does sell a decent product. :L:  another option is simply shoving an extra spring isolator on the low side. 

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I do have a set of RE front springs. I have not installed them. Still, they are highly rated. Old Man EMU, possibly Metal Cloak, Currie, but $$. 

Also, don't expect a bunch of HP improvement on the 4.0L. That is unless Stroker or forced induction. Although, some have upped the Fuel PSI, with adjustable regulator or a stock one with a higher setting. You'd have to search for the 99+ intake and Jordan88 on Mall Crawler. 

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5 hours ago, Pete M said:

so barring anything actually broken with what ya got:  torque is found below ~2500, HP is found above.  that's just how our engines work.  if you wanna go fast, gotta rev it.   :D

 

but my advice is to slow down rather than throwing money at more HP.  contrary to what you might see on the freeways in Atlanta, driving on public roads is not a race. :driving:  There's no winning.  no trophy.  just a never-ending roll of the dice to see if today is the day that someone staring at their phone messes up your truck. :(  brakes are where I'd invest my cash.  :L:  and a bigger swaybar.  maybe a rear swaybar too.  whatever helps me dodge the idiots better.  :fistshake2:

 

 

try swapping the coils left to right.  it might not be the springs doing the lean. :(  but either way, RE does sell a decent product. :L:  another option is simply shoving an extra spring isolator on the low side. 


Sway bars are one thing that I am considering upgrading on my truck. I couldn’t ask for better brakes—the truck will easily make you lock the seatbelt. 

 

Good call on the coils, however, it never leaned stock and the coils that are in it are used ones with a lot of miles on them. I may look at swapping them still. 
 

I don’t want more midrange power to be able to drive the truck fast or anything, but I do want a little bit more so it can keep up with some newer cars under daily driver circumstances. I am wanting more midrange torque too, if I can get it. 

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just keep in mind that it's an old truck with an old engine.  don't expect any miracles.  :L:   below 2500 is your torque, above 2500 is your horsepower.  use the big handle to your right to get the engine where it wants to be. :D  

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Military wrap doesn't really add anything to the spring, it's just the one GS makes in the US. I think they net 3" over stock. I'm waiting for mine to come in right now. By my measurements, I have 3" front and rear lift currently, and 4.5" springs in the front should make my truck level. I'm waiting until I do the rear in the spring though to get anything for the front.

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1 hour ago, keeponjeepinon said:

Military wrap doesn't really add anything to the spring, it's just the one GS makes in the US. I think they net 3" over stock. I'm waiting for mine to come in right now. By my measurements, I have 3" front and rear lift currently, and 4.5" springs in the front should make my truck level. I'm waiting until I do the rear in the spring though to get anything for the front.

This is the setup I am running. Truck sits level, no factory rake

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2 hours ago, keeponjeepinon said:

Military wrap doesn't really add anything to the spring, it's just the one GS makes in the US. I think they net 3" over stock. I'm waiting for mine to come in right now. By my measurements, I have 3" front and rear lift currently, and 4.5" springs in the front should make my truck level. I'm waiting until I do the rear in the spring though to get anything for the front.

 

29 minutes ago, watchamakalit said:

This is the setup I am running. Truck sits level, no factory rake

Thanks guys!

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On 11/1/2021 at 2:38 PM, 89 MJ said:

I don’t want more midrange power to be able to drive the truck fast or anything, but I do want a little bit more so it can keep up with some newer cars under daily driver circumstances. I am wanting more midrange torque too

 

boring the TB will give you more HP higher in the rev range, not the other way around, also 4.10 gives more torque at the line but once you get to 4th gear it starts to feel slugish, and shifting to 5th doesnt help either

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3 hours ago, JMO413 said:

 

Screenshot_20211104-184823.png.75754143cba3229f4e44eb2956033a4e.png

This is for an HO but if you look where torque and horsepower cross your at almost 2800 RPM. That is when it actually comes on. IMHO

My butt Dyno does says the bored throttle body helps.

Thank you!

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I had the leaning issue on mine too. The track bar connects on the driver side and pulls it lower. The driver and gas tank being on the same side doesnt help. When I lifted, using 5.5" RE springs, I added an extra spring isolator to the driver side. It helped ALMOST level it. It could have used another isolator or a 1" spacer to get it just right. I ordered a set of 1" spacers before doing the lift, but decided to use the extra isolator first as I didnt want to over do it. 

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20 hours ago, JMO413 said:

Welcome. 

https://mountainoffroad.com/products/steering-brace-87-01-xj

 

I have this brace and an very happy with it. It's not nearly as beefy as the one you were looking at but the price isn't nearly as beefy either.

That is a lot cheaper and probably would be better for what my truck is used for, really. 

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