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Project “Tomahawk”


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I had an 05 nsg370 on my tj rubicon. It has an integral bellhousing so I didn’t consider it a swap candidate. I’m sure it would hold up to most 4.0 based strokers though. Good overall tranny. Early models had a reverse gear recall

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On 7/18/2024 at 9:31 PM, Torq_Shep said:

Is there anyone building the 6 speed NSG370 or are those not even worth a discussion? 

I had one in my LJ. Very poor German truck transmission and it had a shift throw that was insanely long. B&M makes a short throw shifter which helped a bit. Mine only had around 35k on it and it was impossible to shift quickly. The syncro's were really weak. A Tremec TKX or a TR4050 would be the best choice. However, the old AX15 is a pretty stout trans too.

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7 hours ago, Limeyjeeper said:

I had one in my LJ. Very poor German truck transmission and it had a shift throw that was insanely long. B&M makes a short throw shifter which helped a bit. Mine only had around 35k on it and it was impossible to shift quickly. The syncro's were really weak. A Tremec TKX or a TR4050 would be the best choice. However, the old AX15 is a pretty stout trans too.

Curious to know, would you still go ax15 for your build if you did it again? 

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On 7/22/2024 at 6:38 PM, ghetdjc320 said:

Curious to know, would you still go ax15 for your build if you did it again? 

I would probably do an auto. The LS torque curve doesn't lend itself very well to a 5 speed. Or I would go with 3.73 gears nor 3.55. The LS makes its power once you get over 2.5k revs. The LS1 intake doesn't help that moves up the torque and power curve. A good tune might fix some of it too. Still haven't got around to getting the LS on a dyno.

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55 minutes ago, Limeyjeeper said:

I would probably do an auto. The LS torque curve doesn't lend itself very well to a 5 speed. Or I would go with 3.73 gears nor 3.55. The LS makes its power once you get over 2.5k revs. The LS1 intake doesn't help that moves up the torque and power curve. A good tune might fix some of it too. Still haven't got around to getting the LS on a dyno.


Good to know. I’m running 4.56 gears with my metric 33’s. I’ve been contemplating cam swapping this engine to a low rpm torque cam like maybe a btr truck stage 1 or something. Never really looked into an auto swap though. Was just trying to get close to the same rpm ranges as the C5 with the T56. Seems like an auto is a more economical option though. 

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An interesting tidbit of tech from Novak regarding LS swaps in MJ/XJ platforms: ideal engine slope angle is 4* down towards the rear but up to 7* is considered acceptable. This can mostly be adjusted at the transmission mount. I’ve noticed that between the Novak engine and tranny mounts and the quick draw bellhousing, the ax15 can sit quite high in the trans tunnel. I was able to remove some unneeded tabs on the NP242 and tuck it up also nice and tightly. I plan on fitting the Barnes XJ skid plate on it at some point and will report back with the fitment (still a few months away).

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12 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

An interesting tidbit of tech from Novak regarding LS swaps in MJ/XJ platforms: ideal engine slope angle is 4* down towards the rear but up to 7* is considered acceptable. This can mostly be adjusted at the transmission mount. I’ve noticed that between the Novak engine and tranny mounts and the quick draw bellhousing, the ax15 can sit quite high in the trans tunnel. I was able to remove some unneeded tabs on the NP242 and tuck it up also nice and tightly. I plan on fitting the Barnes XJ skid plate on it at some point and will report back with the fitment (still a few months away).


The angle desired from what I read is not so much engine operation limited, but rather U-joint limited. Begs the question, with your "uptight" NP242, what are your driveshaft angles looking like?

 

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On 7/31/2024 at 12:30 AM, Comanche SS said:


The angle desired from what I read is not so much engine operation limited, but rather U-joint limited. Begs the question, with your "uptight" NP242, what are your driveshaft angles looking like?

 

I’ll have to measure pinion angle once the front once castor is set. Ideally the pinion will be at zero. The actual driveshaft angle should be pretty decent with the HP front. When I first test fit everything, the drivetrain angle was about 6-7 degrees. Ultimately I’d say the transmission was able to be raised up around 1.25” and maintain a really nice uniform gap all around once the tcase housing was cleaned up. Essentially did a tummy tuck. I’d imagine the smaller np231 wouldn’t have this issue or one could just run the drivetrain angle as it sits but your front output yoke would be angled up a bit more than ideal.

Keep in mind that I still have a tiny bit of factory rake 
 

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