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how to center the rear axle


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The leaf springs and the center pins of the springs interfacing with the holes in the spring perches are what centers the axle.  

 

Tolerance on the location of the spring mounts from the factory allow the spring mount locations to vary back and forth (side to side) up to 2.25mm during the assembly and welding process of the chassis (based on shop manual information).   I don't really know what the tolerance is on the factory welding of the spring perches on the axle, but I would guess it's +/-1mm.

 

As you can see, there is reasonable latitude in the axle centering of the axle under the vehicle.  The drive shaft can deal with that, no problem, of course.

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40 minutes ago, omega_rugal said:

what exactly keeps the rear axle centered below the truck? only the leaf springs?

 

Yep. Just the springs.

 

In the (very) old days, Hudsons had a Panhard rod (a.k.a. track bar) on the rear axle, but I've never seen any other brand that used one on a leaf spring rear suspension.

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18 hours ago, omega_rugal said:

how about a watts linkage? there seems to be room for it...

Why bother?  What function would it provide that actually NEEDS to be done?

 

Watts linkages or panhard rods are used often with coil spring suspension, for obvious reasons.   Leaf springs don't need them for equally obvious reasons.

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leaf springs tend to twist a little, more as they age

 

11 minutes ago, AZJeff said:

Why bother?  What function would it provide that actually NEEDS to be done?

 

keeping the axle centered even if the leaf springs or the busings are worn? preventing these two from excessive twisting?

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There just isn't much movement possible, and if you get too much, it's pretty simple and affordable to replace the bushings. When you do get wear, it tends to be symmetrical, so it has limited effects on tracking. One of those things, so simple, why make it harder?

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1 hour ago, BeatCJ said:

There just isn't much movement possible, and if you get too much, it's pretty simple and affordable to replace the bushings. When you do get wear, it tends to be symmetrical, so it has limited effects on tracking. One of those things, so simple, why make it harder?

I agree.   Engineers have been designing axles mounted on leaf springs for 75 years+, and with a VERY few exceptions, none of them use any auxiliary hardware to control the lateral position of the axle under the chassis.

 

Worn leaf springs won't increase lateral motion of the axle.  They will merely cause chassis sag.   Worn bushings possibly could cause the axle to move small amounts laterally, but that's an indicator that bushings need to be replaced.

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25 minutes ago, ghetdjc320 said:

YJs had rear track bars 

So did later full size Jeeps.  Around the same time as the YJ.

 

Front leaf springs work fine by themselves but they don't corner as well as a good independent suspension or properly designed coil suspension with a straight axle.  A panhard bar helps with that.

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5 hours ago, derf said:

So did later full size Jeeps.  Around the same time as the YJ.

 

Front leaf springs work fine by themselves but they don't corner as well as a good independent suspension or properly designed coil suspension with a straight axle.  A panhard bar helps with that.

I thought we were talking about the springs on an MJ, which are in the back. Those axles won’t benefit from a pan hard rod the same way a front axle will.

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If someone was racing their MJ, a panhard would help but a watts linkage is a much better choice as it doesn't pull to one side with the loading/unloading of the rear suspension. For a 4x4 though, any type of bar/linkage will limit suspension travel and many types are susceptible to binding at the extreme ends of travel....something leafs are not prone to.  Leaf spring rear suspensions are typically "good enough" suspensions, they do not excel at anything other than being cheap but do a good enough job to work for 99% of the situations a vehicle is likely to encounter. 

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That bar doesn't pull, it maintains the end that is bolted to the front axle a fixed distance from the driver side frame. That's all that it needs to do. While steel isn't a particularly good material in compression, it's strong enough in this application. So it pushes, too. At the limits of travel, the axle moves slightly right or left, but not enough that you can't easily adjust with your steering wheel.

 

Add the control arms controlling front and rear location, and tilt ,the suspension in our Comanches and Cherokees is fairly simple, robust and effective.

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2 hours ago, BeatCJ said:

While steel isn't a particularly good material in compression, it's strong enough in this application.

 

 

Huh? Whut?

 

Steel isn't good in compression? Why is that what the frames of skyscrapers are made of?

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15 hours ago, omega_rugal said:

ok for the rear axle may not make a difference enoigh but in the front? the only bar that holds the front axle centered pulls to one side only

 

it both pulls AND pushes. :L: 

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9 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

Huh? Whut?

 

Steel isn't good in compression? Why is that what the frames of skyscrapers are made of?

Sorry, brain slipped out of gear. I reworded what I was trying to say several times, and didn't reread it before I hit post.

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14 hours ago, MiNi Beast said:

compressive strength of ductile materials such as mild steel used for most structural purposes is around 250 MPa. 

 

Compare that to the compressive strength of aluminum or brass ... or zamak

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