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Posted

Yes. 89 1/2 or newer or if a PO swapped an AX15 in place of a BA10.

 

What is your current trans, BTW?  Not sure? The BA10 splits in half from front to back, so the case open lengthwise.  AX15 splits in circumference around the case.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I ended up getting the pilot bushing in the link above. I also picked up a new clutch kit. The new kit has 2 bearings where does the gold one go if it didnt come in the kit? 

20210214_142855.jpg

Posted

You would use one or the other. The early crankshaft has a smaller bore than the later.model. Do I see a needle bearing the same size as the oilite (gold) bushing? If it is, and it fits both the transmission input shaft and the crankshaft bore, a bearing is a superior setup to a bushing.

  • rylee144 changed the title to Clutch, flywheel and pilot bearing
Posted

I pulled the pilot bearing it was smaller than the one that's needed now. The two on the left came out. 

 

The one on the right is the one that came with the clutch kit. It fits the shaft on the ax15. It's wobbly in the pilot hole. The gold ring also fits the shaft on the trans but not in the hole on the motor. 

 

I'd like guidance if I could get it. Thanks. 

20210218_123156.jpg

20210218_123037.jpg

  • rylee144 changed the title to Clutch, pilot bearing, rear main seal
Posted

looks good and broke in. clean it up fresh seals and run it. add a little grease to the needle bearing one. when it warms back up next week ill be where you are currently. so appreciate you sharing whats ahead of me, again. :laugh:

Posted

i used a bronzed bushing as had small tip ax15 and big hole 4.0. :nuts:

worked great after 5 years i had to replace it as it did wear funny. but maintenence free and reliable and thats what we are all after. :grinyes:

Posted

The bronze fitting I have fits real tight. Maybe it just needs greased and tapped in. I'll have to take another look, otherwise it's to Novak route. The new seals should be here tomorrow 

Posted

The scoring on the journal doesn’t look bad but it’s always very hard to tell from pictures. Not to much work to pull the crank though at this point. Definitely recommend replacing the rear main anytime your that far into the engine and it has more than 100k or so on it. 

Posted

The rear main seal should be here anyday now. Then i need to figure out the pilot bearing situation then I can re assemble!!!!! Getting excited. Still lots to do. 

Posted
19 minutes ago, rylee144 said:

The rear main seal should be here anyday now. Then i need to figure out the pilot bearing situation then I can re assemble!!!!! Getting excited. Still lots to do. 

Sweet! The pilot bearing you need should be an off the shelf item at the auto parts store. 

Posted
Just now, ghetdjc320 said:

Sweet! The pilot bearing you need should be an off the shelf item at the auto parts store. 

I’m assuming you have a 3/4” snout on the ax15 going into a renix 4.0 crank?

Posted
1 minute ago, ghetdjc320 said:

I’m assuming you have a 3/4” snout on the ax15 going into a renix 4.0 crank?

Yes. I thought I had the right thing but it's really tight. I need to get a micrometer so i can double check

Posted

Really tight where? It IS supposed to be pretty tight in the crankshaft, but should rotate easily on the input shaft.

 

FYI, if you end up using the bronze/oilite bushing, that does NOT get greased. It is supposed to be soaked in motor oil, and off the top of my head, it's recommended that the oil is warmed to about 130 degrees.

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