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I was sitting in the manche with my son today (2 yrs old, loves to lay on the horn and yell "beep beep") and after about 20-25 min my temp gauge was reading 240-260. Should I be worried or is that normal for a renix? When I'm riding around it RARELY hits 210, I'm fairly certain it's the original radiator; 112k miles. 

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Do you think it could be the radiator fan? Ive already drained and re filled the radiator with fresh coolant, it has a few little rust spots on it, not sure if that matters. I can take pics if it helps at all

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Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, this is the first vehicle I've owned and I want to make sure its properly maintained. I don't have a ton of experience with vehicle care (apart from easy stuff like brakes, fluids, interior stuff etc.) so I want to be 100% sure that everything is in good shape.

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I'm sitting in her right now, shes running and warming up as usual. Is it also normal for my oil pressure gauge to read at 65 is until its warm? I think I'm just being paranoid, but I'm in too deep to stop now!:banana:

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Sounds like the clutch for the fan has gone bad. It is basically free spinning. When you are driving you have air flowing through the radiator. When sitting still the fan is not pulling air through the radiator to cool.

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:thanks: So i need a new fan clutch, while I'm on the cooling system, is there any way to clean this up a bit? Most of these hoses are really old and the metal pieces are rusting. If i can replace worn out hoses AND clean my engine bay up a bit i would be a very happy camper (trying to add pics correctly)

 

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Do you have AC? IF SO then:

 The fan spins freely: are you talking about the fan that sits in front of the engine driven by the fan belt or the fan that is in front of the air cleaner?

  The engine fan should have some resistance when you try to spin it.

  The air cleaner fan should spin easily and only come on when you run the AC or engine gets hot. 

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Hey guys sorry for the late responses, I left for vacation shortly after posting the pics. Pete, I uploaded them on my comp and can see them now on my phone, not sure if you guys can. If yall can't I'll try to take screenshots and upload. OldManComanche, I do not have Ac, the fan I was referring to when I checked was the fan driven by the belt. If it's a fan thing I'd love to upgrade, if it's a radiator thing, I'd love to upgrade lol. I was looking into an open cooling system but besides replacing the overflow bottle/cap I don't think it would help me.

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10 hours ago, Aidan said:

Hey guys sorry for the late responses, I left for vacation shortly after posting the pics. Pete, I uploaded them on my comp and can see them now on my phone, not sure if you guys can. If yall can't I'll try to take screenshots and upload.

 

The pics don't show up for me.

 

Quote

OldManComanche, I do not have Ac, the fan I was referring to when I checked was the fan driven by the belt. If it's a fan thing I'd love to upgrade, if it's a radiator thing, I'd love to upgrade lol. I was looking into an open cooling system but besides replacing the overflow bottle/cap I don't think it would help me.

 

You don't have an overflow bottle. The closed cooling system used on the '88 4.0L has a pressurized expansion tank. That's the plastic reservoir on the passenger side firewall. It is NOT an overflow catch tank, it's an integral part of the cooling system. The cap is a pressure cap and, if it won't hold pressure, the system won't work properly. Also, be sure you don't overfill it. It should be filled to halfway when the system is cold - no more.

 

That said, the first thing for you to address is the fan clutch. That's probably not spinning the fan fast enough to move air. The key is if the temp goes up wien the vehicle isn't moving, but returns to normal when the vehicle is moving.

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When Maveric and I changed his system to remove the expansion tank, we did have air purge problems, even though I added coolant through the heater hose connections, my usual trick on 4.0's. But after, IIRC, three cold-hot-cold cycles, it had purged most trapped air. Just make sure to change the radiator, heater control valve and hoses and add an expansion tank, but more to the point, ensure the radiator you get has both a neck and a bung for the electric fan switch. The expansion tank we are using is one of those cheap square ones you can buy aftermarket, and the radiator cap is 15(?) pounds.

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On 7/22/2020 at 3:07 PM, silvertwinkiehobo said:

The expansion tank we are using is one of those cheap square ones you can buy aftermarket, and the radiator cap is 15(?) pounds.

 

Expansion tank, or overflow catch bottle? I've never heard of a cheap, square expansion tank.

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19 minutes ago, Eagle said:

 

Expansion tank, or overflow catch bottle? I've never heard of a cheap, square expansion tank.

 

Actually, get down to brass tacks, both are expansion tanks. One is included in the cooling loop, one is outside of it. This is an Amazon link to the tank we have:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-54002-Engine-Coolant-Recovery/dp/B016V2BIB0/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=coolant+reservoir&qid=1595553176&s=automotive&sprefix=coolant+reservoir&sr=1-12

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On 7/17/2020 at 1:23 AM, Aidan said:

I was sitting in the manche with my son today (2 yrs old, loves to lay on the horn and yell "beep beep") 

It might be another 30 years before you realize that is one of life's finer offerrings. Got a pic of that shared moment with junior?

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6 hours ago, Manche757 said:

It might be another 30 years before you realize that is one of life's finer offerrings. Got a pic of that shared moment with junior?

My grandson can’t wait for grandpa to get home from work so he can go out to the truck. He’s going to burn out another horn. 

602BC58C-DF4C-487D-8485-99CFAEA3F413.jpeg

E3B2D705-DCA3-499F-B89D-5EAEA3D2E901.jpeg

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