Drive shaft

[rylee144]

I have a 88 short bed 4.0L. I will be swapping in a d30 front and 8.8 rear. I have a ax15 and np231j with sye as well. From what I've found just about all these mods, axels, tranny and t case change the length of the drive shaft.

 

My plan is to have all the parts ready to go in. I can't measure the lenght of shaft I need because the axels aren't in. Does anyone know the length of the front and rear shafts I'll need? 

 

 

[rylee144]

My 2wd shaft can prolly be cut and balanced to fit because my new set up will need a shorter one right? And the front should be any xj/mj with a 4.0 that's 4wd? 

[omega_rugal]

the front should be ok, but the rear, ax15 + 4wd + ford 8.8? that combo may not match any of the measurements we have.

 

also, do your rear axle is the 1 piece tube? because the thick,  2 piece axle is difficult to cut and rebalance

[JustEmptyEveryPocket]

I had the stock 4x4 BA10-5, NP 231, rear D35 set-up in my truck. Swapped a 1996 AX-15 + NP 231 combo and rear Ford 8.8. There was no change in lift. With the adapter plate on the Ford 8.8 pinion my original rear driveshaft fit, but was uncomfortably tight. Granted, I did drive the truck to the shop, then dropped the driveshaft for them to cut. But I was SUPER CAREFUL driving there and was sweating bricks the entire time. I kept waiting for a huge bang and the destruction of my new transfercase. The shop took off off ~3/4". Been driving it like that for years with no issues. Front driveshaft fit in no problems at all.

 

Please note: I do not wheel this vehicle at all. The most it does is trundle around my pastures. So I have not tried flexing to see what happens, but I doubt there would be any issues.

 

Hopefully the above can help you figure out measurements.  Good luck!

 

Also, as  @omega_rugal says, you might have issues with the 2wd driveshaft. The stories I have read is the rubber core leads to shops refusing to work on it. Never know till you ask though.

[Dzimm]

Unfortunately you will be much further ahead by getting it put together and then measuring for the driveshaft.  Being that you have an sye you will likely have more wiggle room with the measurements but you want to be as close as possible to perfect.  You'd be surprised how much the slip joint moves and you really don't want it bottoming out or falling out. 

 

With that combo, I doubt anyone will have the measurement and even if they did, I'd measure it myself just to be sure.  You may also get lucky and find out the length of shaft you need is sitting on a store shelf somewhere.  That's how it worked out for my street truck and I had the brand new shaft at my door a few days later.

[rylee144]

Called a shop told them what I had and was quoted 475 ish. Was not expecting that bill. Still waiting to get everything in to measure myself though. 

[Pete M]

have you checked the online driveshaft shops? 

[ghetdjc320]

Do you already have a double cardan shaft you just need adjusted? If so it should be much cheaper. If you need a new driveshaft with double cardan and slip shaft it will be in that price range. I run a tom woods rear DS and it was about $500

[BeatCJ]

ghetdjc320 is right, most of your cost is in the fittings for the ends. I had the rear shaft for my CJ lengthened (tube cut out and replaced) for just over $100. Find a JY shaft and have that one adjusted to fit for about half of that.

[ctxj93]

I had Oliver's driveline in NC make my double cardon rear shaft. Came with all of the options Tom Woods charges extra for and was much cheaper. Mine was built with 3" tube, greasable spicer u joints and extended splines for $338. They were great to deal with.

[rylee144]

Sounds like a good option. Thank you.