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Posted
33 minutes ago, jdog said:

What you soaking it with

Right now the engine has almost a whole can of WD40 in the cylinders. Ill tell a bit of history.

 

22 minutes ago, JMO413 said:

https://www.google.com/search?q=carb+cleaner+dip&oq=carb+cleaner&aqs=chrome.3.69i57j0l3.5829j0j7&client=ms-android-uscellular-us-revc&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#scso=_Dtq5XqSKNdjWtQbk1YioAQ1:0

 

Get you one of these and let it soak. We have one guy at the dealership that rebuilds carburetors and that always the second step. First step is a rebuild kit and a new float. 

Yep, seems like the PO got a rebuild kit from a ford dealership(still operating) here back in 2002. So the PO was set on rebuilding the carb as they replaced the points, cap and rotor thinking it was an ignition issue. Seems to be more on the bad head gasket side.

 

Radiator was full of the same brown crap I found in my MJ. Which isn't a good thing, but who knows. PO has new belts and hoses so hopefully I'm not diving into something bad here.

 

History-It was in my friends family since new. His moms boyfriend, his grandfather had it since new. It got passed on to his dad, his dad passed away a year and a half ago at 71 and got passed on to the boyfriend. So neat to learn it hasn't been anywhere bad. They did have plans to keep it and do stuff with it but they didn't have the place, nor time or money to do much to it. 

 

So I'm thinking this motor needs a good soak and it should either move with a big bar or bump the starter to help it.

Posted
Just now, jdog said:

Throw some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders

Ill have to get some but I also thought about ATF too. But I gotta get my grandfather to hush and let me put some stuff down there. 

Posted
Just now, jdog said:

What his issue with putting oil in the motor?

Want the long story or the short story?

 

He is fixated on WD40 being the cure-all to rust. 

Posted

So aside from the whole oil thing, I will put some ATF down the cylinders. I am tearing down the carb right now and am discovering it has never been rebuilt and a lot of it is just gummed up and not rusted thank goodness.

Posted

Radiator has a hole in it, so letting it soak with vinegar and water mix might end up being pointless. I don think its the original radiator, does not say Ford anywhere.

Posted

some things should remain original for originality's sake.

 

other things should be replaced with a brand spanking new unit. 

 

I tend to put the radiator in the second category. :D  cooling and brakes should be up to snuff for a driver. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Pete M said:

d brakes should be up to snuff for a driver. 

and the idiots around said driver

Posted

I've seen people do ATF in cylinders, but I would also do Marvel mystery oil. Works great! Seen people mix ATF and acetone and put in the cylinders too, but I would just stick with Marvel Mystery Oil.

 

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I am pretty excited to do more with this project now knowing it won't cost me a fortune to replace the engine. Carb has been rebuilt. Now I just need spark plugs and hope it fires.

Posted

This car is going to test me. So far what I have is the engine cranks. Great! Put some spark plugs in and did another crank, sluggish, heads might need to be rebuilt...or cleaned. Doesn't sound like it holds compression very well but ill need to do a compression test but that sound of lost compression could've been the exhaust pipe that goes to the carb for the heater. Also the spark plug wires are garbage, need new ones but two, TWO cylinders fired. Aside from engine stuff, front head lights don't work, something wrong between switch and wire. Ignition switch took a crap and let the key get stuck. Was finally able to pull it out and reset it only to just take it completely apart and let it soak in some gunk remover. Removed the door latch assembly to clean that up so it will lock and actually open the door. 

 

My favorite upgrade will be the Jeep master cylinder and the proportioning valve for the brakes.

Posted

if there easy enough pull the valve covers and inspect the valves, make sure they are opening and closing as the engine spins.

Posted
Just now, jdog said:

if there easy enough pull the valve covers and inspect the valves, make sure they are opening and closing as the engine spins.

Yeah I have plans to do that before pulling the heads. On the bright side if she cranks long enough the oil pressure builds and turns off the light so that's a plus.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Little update. I put the carb on and put spark plugs in and it only fired on two cylinders. Started removing wires for spark plug removal and learned I need new wires. 

Second on the last crank before I left the car the key got stuck. So I got the key out and took the ignition switch out and replaced it with a new one along with the cylinder with a NOS ford cylinder with keys. Thanks to jdog he took the old one apart and discovered the old one was cracked where the tumblers go. 

 

Hopefully more to come. So far I can’t get the headlights to come on which is annoying and some things actually still work. First is to make sure the engine will run, then brake work and then driving. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

It's still too damn hot to really get at this car. But one step forward five steps back. Replaced the wires with genuine ford ones figuring the old ones were just rotted and bad as one fell apart on me. Tried to fire it and it was not happy in terms of cranking. I charged the battery up before cranking and it acts like the compression is too much for the starter to turn. I have a couple of theories I need to try with this issue. Aside from ignition system being an issue I replaced the dome lamp lens and started to get the door latch mechanism in place only to find out the lock cylinder is messed up, kinda, as in it just won't turn. So the door latch will keep waiting. 

 

If you guys have any theories about the slow cranking let me know. Mine include, improper cranking amps, too hot for the battery, starter is failing, not enough oiling action going on and or starter relay.

 

To do:

Ignition switch and door latch install.

Posted

bad cables can cause this, or bad grounds, or a bad starter, whats going on with the door lock cylinder? key just won't turn? could be that the key switch was changed but they didnt change the locks or gummed up lock cylinder

Posted
2 minutes ago, jdog said:

bad cables can cause this, or bad grounds, or a bad starter, whats going on with the door lock cylinder? key just won't turn? could be that the key switch was changed but they didnt change the locks or gummed up lock cylinder

 

I was thinking grounds too, they all need a good refresh and cleaning thats for sure. Actually I just figured out whats wrong with the lock cylinder, Ford actually coded the door locks and ignition to one key code. I thought the doors and ignition were like out Jeeps with on key for the doors and glove box and the square one was for ignition. That is not the case here. I lubes up the lock cylinder and let it sit over night. Tried it again with the round key, no dice. Tried again with the old square key, worked like a charm. So now I'm gonna take up key coding! 

Posted
12 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

 

I was thinking grounds too, they all need a good refresh and cleaning thats for sure. Actually I just figured out whats wrong with the lock cylinder, Ford actually coded the door locks and ignition to one key code. I thought the doors and ignition were like out Jeeps with on key for the doors and glove box and the square one was for ignition. That is not the case here. I lubes up the lock cylinder and let it sit over night. Tried it again with the round key, no dice. Tried again with the old square key, worked like a charm. So now I'm gonna take up key coding! 

good hobby to get into, very interesting how its all done, glad to hear it works with the key. the new key might have to be filed on the sides to round it up a little to work the door

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