one ton swap question

[CSnyder]

Alright everybody, firstly I hope everyone is doing well with such uncertain times.  I'm going to purchase a Dana 60 tonight that I am going to swap into my comanche.  My question is what is the biggest tire I can get under a 6.5" lift with full width axles that I can still wheel with??  At this point my plan is to install a rough country 6.5" lift (I'm a dealer, get a good price, and this will see more on road then off road, for now) and an Artec Industries truss kit.  No crazy long arm or coil overs yet!!?!!    Thanks in advance for your help

[89 MJ]

Are you willing to cut the body?

[Smokeyyank]

First, ditch the junk country and at 6.5 your going to need long arms. Short arms aren't going to work......

 

Why do you want to run a D60 for something that will see more on road time then off? 

[89 MJ]

16 minutes ago, Smokeyyank said:

First, ditch the junk country and at 6.5 your going to need long arms. Short arms aren't going to work......

 

Why do you want to run a D60 for something that will see more on road time then off? 

To add on to this, Dana 44s are good up to 37 inch tires. If yours is going to primarily used for road driving, I wouldn’t go with a D60. 

 

A short arm arm isn’t going to give you a lot of flex for this truck and it will be hard to get enough caster to prevent death wobble. 

 

You could piece together a lift a lift relatively cheap and easily too. 

 

Also, a Ford 8.8 is a great heavy duty rear end for these trucks that is the same width as a stock rear end. 

[89 MJ]

Also, a 3inch lift looks great on these trucks. I wouldn’t go much bigger for road use. 

[CSnyder]

This is going to be a multi stage build, hopefully.  So let me give you some answers.

 

I got a Dana 60, with a locker, 4.88:1 with billet hubs and upgraded axles for cheap

I have a spare 14 bolt on my axle rack taking up space.  I'm swapping in an auto trans and transfer case from a cherokee to replace the 2WD stick shift

 

What I'm looking to do for now is get 35's under it and drive and enjoy this for a little while.  I'm not looking for extreme flex at this time.  I just don't want to rip the fenders off doing mild off roading.  Once I have it up and running and enjoyable, I will take it to another level at a later date

 

I'm in absolute love with this little truck, so i want to get it running and driving and then focus on fixing up all the other stuff and restoring it.

 

Hope that helps

[JustEmptyEveryPocket]

1 hour ago, CSnyder said:

restoring it.

6.5" lift, big tires, 1 ton axles? Thats not a 'restore' and never will be. 

 

My advice (and this is hard to follow) is to leave it alone until you get it running and driving. Unless you are ready to drop $10,000 to start this rebuild, don't do anything major. Fix whats broken and keep it stock. Drive it and enjoy it that way. Read through Epic Tech here and get ideas. Make notes. Keep a running list and mental inventory. Then when you have everything figured out drop the money and do it right.

 

Or keep the truck as is. They aren't around any more, and it hurts the whole community when a decent stock rig gets whacked up as a 'build project'. They are amazingly capable from stock to do easy/ fun wheeling.

 

*insert unpopular puffin*

 

But hey, thats just my opinion. Take it for whats its worth.

[CSnyder]

Thank you all, I was really just looking for a quick answer based off everyone's experience on a tire size.  I know with a 6.5" kit on factory axles you're looking at 33's.  I wasn't sure having the extra width from full size axles if that would permit 35's.  I appreciate everyone's input, I know what I want to do, my capabilities, my budget, my timeline etc.  When I get to the point I will post my build for others to follow along if they want and will probably refrain from asking anymore questions seeing as they won't be answered anyway.  Not looking to start anything, or "throw a temper tantrum and leave" kind of thing.  Have a great day.

 

Also please all stay safe and wash your hands through this pandemic.

[mnkyboy]

33s would be the safest without cutting, with enough bump stopping you could get away with 35s. Depending on the wheels you go with, the full widths may not end up much wider bulge to bulge than stock axles with the same size tires since you typically run a back spaced wheel to push the tires outward on the stock width axles.

 

My MJ is around 7" of lift with 37s and full width axles, but I did a little trimming.

[Smokeyyank]

3 hours ago, CSnyder said:

This is going to be a multi stage build, hopefully.  So let me give you some answers.

 

I got a Dana 60, with a locker, 4.88:1 with billet hubs and upgraded axles for cheap

I have a spare 14 bolt on my axle rack taking up space.  I'm swapping in an auto trans and transfer case from a cherokee to replace the 2WD stick shift

 

What I'm looking to do for now is get 35's under it and drive and enjoy this for a little while.  I'm not looking for extreme flex at this time.  I just don't want to rip the fenders off doing mild off roading.  Once I have it up and running and enjoyable, I will take it to another level at a later date

 

I'm in absolute love with this little truck, so i want to get it running and driving and then focus on fixing up all the other stuff and restoring it.

 

Hope that helps

 

 

Even as a restomo D60 is overkill.  Maybe a HP44 and 9, but ton's IMHO only are needed for those with big rubbers 37+ and beating on their rig. Heck a mildy built D30 and 8.25 can hold up to 35's if you're not mashing the gas through a rock field. Also tons aren't just something you put a truss on and go. Steering has to changed, not should be has to be. You're going to need to swap in some brake stuff, drive shafts. The list goes on. There's not going to be a ton enjoyable about 35's and tons for just poking around town. Maybe on a full size rig but a MJ is plenty awesome just running in decent stock form. 

 

As suggested first get it running and take care of all of the cruiser tips (www.cruiser54.com). 

[omega_rugal]

A Dana 60 is waay too much for a tiny MJ...

[Crash]

A D60 will be stronger and less expensive to build than a d44.
My plan, eventually, is 60 front, 14ff rear and 35s or 37s.
Or, if I come into a bunch of money a 60/9 hybrid front axle.

Get your truck reliable, and setup before you go crazy with it.

[Pete M]

the are several 1-ton builds in the EpicTech subforum  

 

the stock front axle can easily be made to handle 33s, especially if you're not doing anything crazy.

 

the rear dana 35 is another story, but as mentioned, there are good alternatives that still work with the front axle. 

[ghetdjc320]

On 4/1/2020 at 5:03 AM, CSnyder said:

Thank you all, I was really just looking for a quick answer based off everyone's experience on a tire size.  I know with a 6.5" kit on factory axles you're looking at 33's.  I wasn't sure having the extra width from full size axles if that would permit 35's.  I appreciate everyone's input, I know what I want to do, my capabilities, my budget, my timeline etc.  When I get to the point I will post my build for others to follow along if they want and will probably refrain from asking anymore questions seeing as they won't be answered anyway.  Not looking to start anything, or "throw a temper tantrum and leave" kind of thing.  Have a great day.

 

Also please all stay safe and wash your hands through this pandemic.

I recommend against adding all that extra unsprung weight if your only running 35’s. I have a super d35 with truss and run 33’s With plenty of room for 35’s with 5.5” front coils and soa rear. It’s a nice streetable combo with good off-road capabilities. Ground clearance wise, a stock axle on 33’s has the same if not more clearance than 35’s on an 8.8. 35’s on a 14 bolt will be about comparable to the ground clearance of 31’s on a stock axle. Plus as was mentioned, 35’s will require more trimming on an otherwise clean truck. 

[89 MJ]

On 3/31/2020 at 2:03 PM, CSnyder said:

 

Thank you all, I was really just looking for a quick answer based off everyone's experience on a tire size

 

I was trying to give you an answer, but you didn’t answer my question. Do you feel comfortable with cutting your truck fenders and bed up?

[CSnyder]

21 hours ago, 89 MJ said:

I was trying to give you an answer, but you didn’t answer my question. Do you feel comfortable with cutting your truck fenders and bed up?

 

I am looking at trimming slightly maybe an inch to an inch and half.  I'm planning on doing tubular fender flares in the front and an integrated bed protection panel that will go into the tail light and replace it, with a tubular fender flare as well.  I'm missing my rear factory fender flares and the bed is starting to get rusty.  

 

If all goes well, I will be planning on making and selling them as I had read on here before that there were people interested in those items a few years ago and the company that talked about making them didn't.  I own a small off road shop/auto repair shop and I am planning on starting to make things for these trucks to sell.  Only time will tell.

[89 MJ]

1 hour ago, CSnyder said:

 

I am looking at trimming slightly maybe an inch to an inch and half.  I'm planning on doing tubular fender flares in the front and an integrated bed protection panel that will go into the tail light and replace it, with a tubular fender flare as well.  I'm missing my rear factory fender flares and the bed is starting to get rusty.  

 

If all goes well, I will be planning on making and selling them as I had read on here before that there were people interested in those items a few years ago and the company that talked about making them didn't.  I own a small off road shop/auto repair shop and I am planning on starting to make things for these trucks to sell.  Only time will tell.

Ok. Thank you. I think it is a good plan that you are replacing the taillights with something more common. You could probably fit 35s, but don’t quote me on that.