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How high can it be lifted? 88 Comanche pioneer 2wd automatic.


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I bet you could ask this question of 5 different people and get 5 radically different answers. My suggestion would be to go through some build threads (different forum on this site) and read what people have done and look at the end result. This would give you much better ideas that just reading opinions. Good luck.

 

Side question: Why do you want to lift it? Not saying you shouldn't. Just realize that if it is for cosmetics you will be shelling out $$$$ and getting nothing good back for your investment.

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In that case I would recommend you measure your current ride height and compare it against original numbers. Check out THIS THREAD for starters, followed by THIS THREAD for picture reference. 

 

Could just be that your springs are clapped out after too many years of use and abuse. As far as tires go, with proper stops you can run 31"X10.5" at factory height. Although I personally would go with a 235x75x15 or something first. Factory is your friend IMHO.

 

Just throwing out some ideas, and apologies on not really answering your question directly. I just know what a rabbit hole big tires/ big lifts can be. You can put in lots of money on a quality lift and tires to then realize you need longer control arms to manage caster (or is it camber?) angles. This leads to some bumpstear or maybe deathwobble, which leads you to replacing the entire front end and upgrading to the ZJ V8 stuff. Etc Etc.  Once you start, you better be ready to open up your wallet, credit cards, and home equity. Do I seem bitter about this?:laugh:

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JustEmptyEveryPocket is hitting the nail on the head.  His user name sums up what you will need to do as you head down this path.  It's rewarding but make sure it's something you really want to do.  I'd recommend starting with tires first because you may be happy there if you are after looks.

 

That being said, kits generally come in sizes of 2", 3", 4.5", 6" and some other crazy high ones.  You will mostly find 3" and 4.5" for the MJ, any higher and you are going full long arms and lots of money.  The shorter ones you can get away with spacers for the front and add-a-leaf or taller shackle for the rear but you'll still need to change some other parts like the track bar, sway bar links, and shocks.  Also in case you were unaware, the front portion of the MJ is pretty much exactly the same as the XJ Cherokee so most parts interchange in the front.

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a 2" puck up front and a longer shackle out back is the cheapest way to get a bump since starting around 3" you need to replace more parts and then at 4.5 you need to replace even more parts  and at 6" even more part still.  each inch costs more than then last.  :laugh:

 

and that doesn't even include new bigger tires, better gearing, better bakes...  there's no end to the craziness you can do. :D 

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Ended up at 37 3/4” at wheelwell and 18 3/4” at rock rail. So I am sitting at about 4 1/2” right now. 
plus you will need either longer shocks or to relocate the shock mounts. I chose to relocate because the shock mounts are the low hanging fruit on a Comanche. 

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2-3" is about the limits of the stock geometry, from what I've found.  At that point, if you don't do something with the body-side connection of your control arms, they'll come into contact with things and get limited.

 

Going above 3" or so will usually require either drop brackets or long arms (and all the associated mods to go with it...longer brake lines, adjustable track bar to recenter your axle, potentially steering mods...etc).

 

That said, 2" does a LOT for the looks of these trucks and can be worth it.  Don't be fooled by how it sounds.  2" is a world of difference (especially in combination with slightly larger tires).

 

2" lift + 31's (compared to the stock 29s) is a total of 3" of height compared to stock (you only get half the tire-size difference  in height).

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