Sway bar bushing replacement

[EdJarHead]

Just finished what I thought was going to be a relatively easy job; replacing the rubber bushings on the sway bar and sway bar end links.  

 

Two bolts holding the sway bar to the frame broke off (in the frame). After hours of drilling and about a half dozen broken drill bits, finally got holes in them... then broke off a (hardened steel) extractor in one of them!  Found a product called the "Rescue Bit" that ate through the broken off hardened steel screw/bolt extractor and the rest of the bolt.  That thing is a life saver!

 

Oh, then instead of the nut loosening, one of the end link bars broke in half.  So, now I had to order new end links to finish the job.  

 

Figured I'd have this done in about a half day (I move slow and my jack stands are under my '75 Spitfire project)... ended up taking about 2-1/2 days, with breaks in between for parts and more drill bits!

 

[phatton]

I feel your pain.  It seems like every time I think a project will take about an hour or 2, I end up spending about 2 days working on it.  

[JMO413]

That seems to be every project I do! Should take an hour and two days later still working on it. 

[SVPete]

Everything should get some PB blaster, or the like, first these days. Have the bumper bolts on the XJ sprayed right now.

[schardein]

Very common for those end links to break when trying to remove the nut.

[AZJeff]

Here is a pro tip—NEVER use a screw extractor on a threaded fastener that has broken off due to corrosion.  Those devices are intended for use on screws are are still relatively easy to remove, but broken at or below flush.

 

for bolts such as those the OP encountered, drilling in successively larger increments until you get to the proper size for the tap to chase/recut the threads is the way to restore the threads with lowest risk.

[cruiser54]

 

[Jtslick89]

I'm in the same boat...thought it was gonna be an easy job, stuck with rusted/broken bushing bracket bolt and end link bolt thru the lower hole

[AZJeff]

The following tools make this job easier (but not totally painless):

 

• automatic centerpunch to create a correct starting point
• SHARP drills starting at about 1/8” or less
• drilling up in size at about 1/8 inch increments until you get to about the correct tap size
• a clean sharp tap of the appropriate size to match the biggest sized hole you drilled
• PATIENCE

I just retapped all of my trans crossmember bolt holes using these guidelines with no broken taps or drills.

 

 

[Chad R]

The best way is to heat the bolt pull the heat away let cool a couple seconds then reapply the heat and work it back and fourth and reheat if needed. That’s what I do at work every day hear in Michigan with all the rusty cars I work on.
 

[Jtslick89]

Thanks guys