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Got myself comanche couple week ago in Columbus Ohio and drive back home in WV about 6 hours round trip.

 

 

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Got overheated issue and still work on whenever weather is permits..

I found what's missed is electric fan

Also found radiator leak so PO didnt know? Let find out soon... 

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lucky dog!  you got a bench with headrests! :D 

 

welcome to the addiction  :waving: I would start with all of Cruiser's tips (link in my sig) and with this thread:

 

 

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47 minutes ago, Pete M said:

lucky dog!  you got a bench with headrests! :D 

 

welcome to the addiction  :waving: I would start with all of Cruiser's tips (link in my sig) and with this thread:

 

 

 I agree with Pete start with Cruisers tips. If you have questions or need parts ask here you will be pleasantly surprised. 

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just to clarify, your tech Qs should go in the tech forum so more eyeballs will see them. :L: 

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Went to junkyard today and score radiator and electric fan out of 98 and good flushed out, it was really dirty also got 6 gauge dash cluster out of 96 with only 101k miles :banana: also went stop by advance auto store pick up temp sender and oil pressure sender to work with 6 gauge dash cluster. Stay tuned for more tomorrow....

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1 hour ago, Pete M said:

lucky dog!  you got a bench with headrests! :D 

 

welcome to the addiction  :waving: I would start with all of Cruiser's tips (link in my sig) and with this thread:

 

 

I just notice now by u saying i got bench with headrests lol but planning to put WJ black seat in after i get floor pan fix it pretty rust out....

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Just thought wanna show u guys the floor pan I did in my 96 XJ, current still own it. This is my baby XJ...

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the bench looks to be in ok shape, if I can find a way to get to WV I'd love to take it off your hands :D 

 

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Got replace radaitor, add electric fan, replace temp sender and Oil presaure sender to work with gauge. Flush out old coolant by remove thermostat and lower radiator hose, then put 50/50 antifreeze in and let it run for about 30 mins while coolant burp to make sure no air inside cooling system after 30 mins of running then took a drive for 10 mins without overheat checked oil to be sure no water in oil no white smoke out of exhaust everything seem good with engine.Screenshot_2019-02-27-19-27-53.png.cd332ca3bc0a7eb185564a7deebed51f.png

 

Then took front end off my 98 XJ donor and put on MJ right now it not bolt in it just sit rest....

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I like it! :))

 

Goodbye to the bench seat. :waving:

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Now the worse parts......

 

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I have to be extra EXTRA carefully removing all the plastic panel or I will have hard time find other panel for MJ but everything got out good with no damage.

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Looks good!    You wann do my floor pans?  I’m dreading pulling my carpet up.

 

Looks like you’ve got a decent plan figured out for it already.

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35 minutes ago, Lthompson741 said:

Looks good!    You wann do my floor pans?  I’m dreading pulling my carpet up.

 

Looks like you’ve got a decent plan figured out for it already.

U got floor pan for MJ? Bec i know XJ and MJ are different,  i couldnt find any floor pans for MJ.

 

And yea already check for floor pan before i buy it i have 2nd though about to pass it but couldnt pass it for that kind of deal and always want MJ for few years so this deal was unbeatable ao i grab it, also i have done with floor in 2 different XJ in past one was friend's XJ was one the worse I ever seen had to replace the whole floor it was awful nightmare lol but got it everything work out and now u see i did to my red XJ so now MJ shouldnt be a plm for me to deal with it and the biggest advantages for me is I am a fab welder lol :banana:

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14 hours ago, MJXJjeepguy said:

U got floor pan for MJ? Bec i know XJ and MJ are different,  i couldnt find any floor pans for MJ.

 

And yea already check for floor pan before i buy it i have 2nd though about to pass it but couldnt pass it for that kind of deal and always want MJ for few years so this deal was unbeatable ao i grab it, also i have done with floor in 2 different XJ in past one was friend's XJ was one the worse I ever seen had to replace the whole floor it was awful nightmare lol but got it everything work out and now u see i did to my red XJ so now MJ shouldnt be a plm for me to deal with it and the biggest advantages for me is I am a fab welder lol :banana:

No I don’t have floor pans yet.   I’ve heard a couple of names bounced around but non come to mind as a company.

 

My MJ is pretty rotten, although looking from underneath it doesn’t look to bad, I can’t see carpet yet.

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2 hours ago, Lthompson741 said:

No I don’t have floor pans yet.   I’ve heard a couple of names bounced around but non come to mind as a company.

 

My MJ is pretty rotten, although looking from underneath it doesn’t look to bad, I can’t see carpet yet.

 

Ok got ya, u might want pull carpet out soon than wait too long it might not too bad with little surface to tiny hole then u can just bondo kitty hair to cover the small hole but of course clean rust area till u see bare metal then u can start from there, that will be alot easier to do than remove large of metal sheet and put new metal sheet then weld it up, it take alot of time and patient, if u really want to keep the carpet my best advice is put bedliner on floor pan before put carpet back in to protect from begin rust again.

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Just now, MJXJjeepguy said:

 

Ok got ya, u might want pull carpet out soon than wait too long it might not too bad with little surface to tiny hole then u can just bondo kitty hair to cover the small hole but of course clean rust area till u see bare metal then u can start from there, that will be alot easier to do than remove large of metal sheet and put new metal sheet then weld it up, it take alot of time and patient, if u really want to keep the carpet my best advice is put bedliner on floor pan before put carpet back in to protect from begin rust again.

Yeah I know, I haven’t opened that can of worms yet, but it it is on the horizon.     I just haven’t had the time and needed it to be drivable before I moved onto other projects.

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Starting remove some more plastic panel to take headliner down, will have to take to the upholstery shop have them to put new headliner cover and sun visor also...

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And if anyone of you guys have spare lamps on the side on panel u want to sell?....

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Took headliner off....

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Umm... Wonder why some piece missing on foam of headliner from the above?? :confused:

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A MOUSE nest!! Clean it out but no dead or alive mouse to be found yet... Oh my goodness..:laugh:

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That's how much mouse nest is....

 

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Score!! The tailgate off social websote and got it for $150... Other tailgate were missing handle, hinge, and hole rust

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Can anyone explain what its for? And what it do? I try research but no luck.. I don't know what it called?

 

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So the weather had me to stop from working on jeep.. Damn it :mad:

But yea I do have garage but it full of mess and junky stuff, 4 atv, 2 lawnmower, 4.0 engine parts, transmission and more!... Really need a good spring cleaning so badly....

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Hopefully tomorrow will be nicer weather... We will see.. Stay tuned...:beerbang:

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14 minutes ago, MJXJjeepguy said:

Can anyone explain what its for? And what it do? I try research but no luck.. I don't know what it called?

 

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Thats the load sensing valve. Some guys delete it but that is due to it not working. 

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If you think the load sensing valve is not functioning properly before deleting it try this.

 

On 6/21/2017 at 9:59 PM, HOrnbrod said:

I NOW HAVE GREAT REAR BRAKES!

 

Today I broke out the FSM and re-read the load sensing valve (LSV) adjustment procedure - again. Referring to the diagram below, rear brake bias is optimal when the LSV shaft flat (shown by the red line; flat is actually on the splined portion of the shaft) points down at the 6.00 o'clock position while looking at the LSV from the front. The factory adjustment procedure used a wonky 85* adjustment fixture to do the procedure; naturally they are now unobtanium. But in reading the procedure I could see exactly what was happening and how it worked. I pulled the LSV lever partially off the LSV so I could see the shaft flat, and it was pointing at 3:00 o'clock! WTF? I then pulled the lever completely off, and rotated the shaft clockwise 360*. You could feel the pull in the shaft as the LSV internal rotary piston passed across the inlet and outlet fluid ports, then after it passed over the ports, it turned freely with no pull. This is how it regulates the rear brake bias depending on the vehicle load, and if the lever isn't in the correct orientation, the ports are blocked, thus there's no opening for the fluid to pass. Which of course causes weak or no rear braking.

I then rotated the valve shaft so it faced at about the 8:00 o'clock position, which simulated a fully loaded MJ and maximum rear braking. Then while keeping the shaft from rotating, slid the lever back on the splined shaft, pressed it on, and tightened it all down. Went for a test drive and slammed on the brakes, and the rears locked right up. Yay! Then I fooled with different lever positions on the splined valve shaft, and the best braking ended up to be when the shaft flat was facing right at the 7:00 o'clock position.

Now in a panic stop, the fronts lock up just before the rears - perfect. After about four full pedal stops, all four disks were hotter than the hinges of hell. Whereas before, just the front disks got real hot. I'm happy now - no ZJ proportioning valve and re-routing of the brake lines is now required. :)  At least for now.

Does this make sense to y'all? Unfortunately, the 91-92 LSV's are different than the older ones as there's no flat on the splined arm of the 90 and below LSV's. And the older LSV's use a completely different adjustment procedure and adjustment fixture, even wonkier than the HO's do.

 

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10 hours ago, agamble said:

If you think the load sensing valve is not functioning properly before deleting it try this.

 

Great information! Now I will see if my still functioning. If not will it be ok to delete? Will it affect MJ with heavy load like atv mostly will use trailer to haul atv.

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I bypassed mine and haul an ATV regularily. The little rod that operates the valve fell of somewhere. I don't notice a difference but now I'm wondering if it was working right before.

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I'm in hunt for rear bumper and I know on late 80s to early 90s ford ranger, s10 or dakota are alot similar, and till i look in google search and found pic of someone put 98-2004 s10 rear bumper and i like that idea that will look match up front clip off 97-01 XJ that i planned put on my MJ so guys pls help me out what u think? Any advice? And i don't want any aftermarket bumper, wanted keep it stock with little modfity.

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That S-10 bumper looks good on there. It looks like it fits pretty good. Parts should be readily available to service that set up also.

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If u want to come up here. I have a rear bumper from a s-10. U can have.     Remind me to send u pics 

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7 hours ago, MeanLemons said:

If u want to come up here. I have a rear bumper from a s-10. U can have.     Remind me to send u pics 

Nice of you if we are any closer I would have pick it up already but we are 8 hours away lol, found an ford ranger out of 2004 for rear bumper in my local craigslist for $50 so I think going pick it up today, but hey thanks for offer. :thumbsup:

 

I might be interested bore throttle body for my 96 XJ message me for information... 

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1 hour ago, MJXJjeepguy said:

Nice of you if we are any closer I would have pick it up already but we are 8 hours away lol, found an ford ranger out of 2004 for rear bumper in my local craigslist for $50 so I think going pick it up today, but hey thanks for offer. :thumbsup:

 

I might be interested bore throttle body for my 96 XJ message me for information... 

:L:

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Little update, got my headliner back..

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It looked like dark gray in picture but in person it really black.

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