1988 Comanche 2WD 4.0L 5speed

[HokieMJ]

New here.  Last night I picked up an '88 Comanche 2WD 4.0L with almost 200,000 miles on it. Needs TLC and hopefully nothing to major.

Paint is pretty much gone, but little to no rust.  There is some surface rust on the top of the cab.

 

This is Jeep #2.5 for me.  I had a 2002 Grand Cherokee limited 4.7HO (pictures are somewhere of that)  2" blocks and 265/65/17's I think.  I also had a Jeep Patriot for less than a year that I put spacers and larger tires on (huge hunk of crap vehicle).

 

 

 

After the first drive home here is my current work list in no particular order.

1.  Transmission shift boots (got a nice cool breeze through the transmission tunnel so probably all of them) FIXED

2. Instruments are working but no lights. FIXED

3. Parking brake handle is gone and cable is missing.

4. Transmission knob comes off (thinking about just tapping the end of it and getting a blank screw on knob. FIXED

5. Lots of play in the steering so need to get under it and check all the linkages.  Hopefully not a steering box.  FIXED

6. Sometime in its life someone decided to rivet door handles to the bed and back of the cab. (Thinking about drilling them out and JB welding the holes shut, but I'm open to and better options to seal and prevent rust.

7. Oil leak from valve cover (I know this one is shocking to everyone here)

8. Front end drivers side turn signal lights are busted. FIXED

9. Drivers door window seals are gone. and the top of the door is probably not water proof.  

 

I'm sure there is more and I will try to update as I find and fix things.  

Ultimately I want to do a mild build on this with maybe 31-32s, but for now it is just maintenance.

 

Thanks for all the information you all are compiling on this site.

[HokieMJ]

Got off work a little early to take a look at it a little more.

 

More stuff to fix on my list.

Clutch master cylinder is leaking.

That leak is probably killing the fuse panel.

Small hole in the floor on passenger side.  I'm considering pulling the carpets fixing the floors up and just rolling bedliner for the flooring.  Not sure if that will be way too loud or not, but I'm looking for durable fixes.

Drivers door almost looks like it needs to be bent back in towards the cab.  I need to redo the seal on the door either way as the bottom is ripped.  I need to look up how much the doors cost from the 97 on, because I feel it may be worth it in the long run.

 

Got the shifter pulled apart so now I jjust need to figure out the thread pitch and order a knob and shift boots and that will be gtg.

Idle is not super smooth so and there is oil everywhere.  Not sure how I want to attack that yet.  I guess start from the top down and make sure things are sealed and not leaking.

 

ON a hugely positive note.  the AC works quite well which is pretty awesome!!  

 

Time to start ordering some parts.

 

 

 

 

Ohh and the PO said there was an extra valve cover behind the seat.  Looked today and there was one... for a 4 cylinder.

 

 

[JMO413]

Looks like a good starting point. As for the oil leak I would. Start with the good blue Fel Pro gasket on the valve cover. It's worth the money. The oil filter adapter has 3 o-rings that are cheap to replace also. I put off pulling my fuse block but now I wish I had done it first. Hope this helps.

[neohic]

Looks like a solid truck! Love the look. 

[Fryedaddy]

If the holes are pin holes to a nickle size buy:

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-49013-Black-POR-Patch/dp/B00J594AQ2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Por15+Seam+Sealer&qid=1551446631&s=gateway&sr=8-5 

 

Thats what I filled my holes with. If you have rust try Por15 paint (Paint Over Rust) is what POR stands for.

 

I love my MJ....sooo many things that can be done and they are easy to work on!!

 

 

[HokieMJ]

Thanks for the info JMO413 and Fryedaddy.

 

This website is super helpful and it is all I have been reading since Monday.  I have a lot to do, but I always look for an upgrade as opposed to a simple patch job.  Sometimes it is cheaper and smarter to just fix it, but I want to keep this truck around for a long time.  

 

I ended up getting the shifter pulled apart and I have ordered the first boot that goes on the actual transmission as well as a round blank shift knob.  Hopefully those two fit and work!

 

 

[RangerDB]

In regards to the loose steering, check your track bar and the bracket it goes into. The bracket will sometimes oval out and make it sloppy.

[HokieMJ]

Thanks RangerDB.  I will definitely check that out.  

 

I had my first part show up which was the shift boot that goes on top of the transmission.  I haven't had time to install but it looks like it is going to work.  Gotta pull the shifter out and get some new bolts as at least one is missing.  I ended up getting this boot Crown Automotive J8134064 Interior Shifter Boot on Amazon.  I will try to take some pictures once I get it installed.  

I also ordered a new shift knob (White Delrin 50mm Ball with M10x1.5 threads), and a shifter boot for T4/T5 for sealing the cab.  I will post how those work as well.  

 

I had a little time to cut some of the carpet out.  I knew there was going to be rust and it looks worse than it is.  I only found one hole all the way through which is on the passenger side.  I think my plan for now is to grind as much of this off as I can and assess again.  If it is not traveling up the sides then I will be happy to POR15 it and then some bedliner.  I want durable and easy to clean so carpet is not going back in. I was planning on cleaning up underneath and spraying rubber.  Am I just asking for a ton of noise?

 

The PO had used some nasty air freshers that permeated everything.  I have purchased cars from smokers before and had good luck with a vacuum then ground coffee left in the car in an open container.  This seems to be working again in the truck.  I can't recommend it to those that don't like coffee though.

 

[HokieMJ]

More pictures and shift knob (M10x1.5) came in.
Shift lever needs a little paint along with the locking nut, but that will have to wait till warmer months (which is why I chose white. I had a black one on a previous car and it got super toasty in the sun). Shifter console got cleaned up as well may end up coloring that black or grey to eventually go with the floors.!

[HokieMJ]

Picked up some stuff from the junkyard after work yesterday.  Instrument panel w/ tach, dash trim (I may mess around with the switches and stuff so having a spare will be handy), glove conpartment lock, and clip for the sun visor.  Color is not right, but I think I can fix that later.

 

[Submariner]

At least you got one that has not many miles on it.  Iwent from 214K to 287K on my odometer   LOL   not that it matters.   Going to rebuild all the running gear anyway.

 

[Submariner]

On 2/26/2019 at 8:10 AM, HokieMJ said:

New here.  Last night I picked up an '88 Comanche 2WD 4.0L with almost 200,000 miles on it.  I think it was a decent deal at $1700.  Needs a lot of TLC and hopefully nothing to major.

Paint is pretty much gone, but little to no rust.  There is some surface rust on the top of the cab.

 

This is Jeep #2.5 for me.  I had a 2002 Grand Cherokee limited 4.7HO (pictures are somewhere of that)  2" blocks and 265/65/17's I think.  I also had a Jeep Patriot for less than a year that I put spacers and larger tires on (huge hunk of crap vehicle).

 

 

 

After the first drive home here is my current work list in no particular order.

1.  Transmission shift boots (got a nice cool breeze through the transmission tunnel so probably all of them)

2. Instruments are working but no lights.

3. Parking brake handle is gone and cable is missing.

4. Transmission knob comes off (thinking about just tapping the end of it and getting a blank screw on knob.

5. Lots of play in the steering so need to get under it and check all the linkages.  Hopefully not a steering box.

6. Sometime in its life someone decided to rivet door handles to the bed and back of the cab. (Thinking about drilling them out and JB welding the holes shut, but I'm open to and better options to seal and prevent rust.

7. Oil leak from valve cover (I know this one is shocking to everyone here)

8. Front end drivers side turn signal lights are busted.

9. Drivers door window seals are gone. and the top of the door is probably not water proof.  

 

I'm sure there is more and I will try to update as I find and fix things.  

Ultimately I want to do a mild build on this with maybe 31-32s, but for now it is just maintenance.

 

Thanks for all the information you all are compiling on this site.

looks a lot like mine,  maybe a little rougher.   and I don't have any rust.

[Submariner]

This is how mine came home.

[HokieMJ]

9 minutes ago, Submariner said:

At least you got one that has not many miles on it.  Iwent from 214K to 287K on my odometer   LOL   not that it matters.   Going to rebuild all the running gear anyway.

 

I think you can swap out the speedo odometer part?  Not 100% sure but I will be looking into it this weekend as I'm not sure the trip function is working on this unit.  

[HokieMJ]

On 3/7/2019 at 10:17 AM, Submariner said:

This is how mine came home.

Very Nice.  I like your plan as well.  Should be awesome when you are done.

[HokieMJ]

Finally started tackling some things.

Put my new gauges in and went for a ride.  About 10min in my temp looked fine then it pegged.  I was about 10 miles from home so I just took it easy.  I was worried I was overheating the engine, so I put the old gauges in and temp gauge was reading below 210 even while sitting at lights.  I also had my blower motor fuse go out.  I swapped it for a spare and it seems to have fixed the issue but I can see the terminal has corroded.  

Today I found time for the clutch master cylinder swap.  Bleeding was a pain as the bleed screw was stuck so I ended up breaking the fitting loose from the hardline which kind of worked.  I'm looking to replace that fitting and run that hose somewhere more convenient to get a better bleed.  

Anyone know what that fitting size is?  I think I had a 7/16 and 9/16 wrenches on the two parts.

 

I also removed the flares, side moldings (haven't cleaned the glue off yet), look the stupid riveted handles off the bed, removed the bent bumper and the brackets.

Diagnosed my steering clunk as a bad trackbar.  Ordered that today.  

Replaced the front vacuum hoses on the CCV system.  

I can hear the brake MC hissing when I come to a stop.  I have a new one for a WJ, but I have not gotten the booster yet.

 

I don't get a lot of time to work on things so it is little by little, but it is a joy to drive around even with no bumper.  

Sorry for the ramble.  If anyone does happen to know of where to find a replacement for that bleeder or the fitting size it would be greatly appreciated.  

 

 

[Pete M]

Love it!  looks like you've found yourself a good project.  

 

Tech questions like the bleeder Q should really go in the Tech forum so more eyes will see 'em.  not everyone peruses the build thread every day.   

[HokieMJ]

Yesterday got my trackbar installed.  Huge difference to steering and clunk.  Here is the old one.  I think it was pretty much toast.

 

The steering wheel is off center now and I have a little more poke on the passengers side now.  The ride is much more solid.  I'm going to measure the suspension and see if I have some springs sagging in the front.

.  

 

I'm thinking about going to the Moog progressive springs for the ZJ V8/ upcountry XJ (CC782).  I think that would help level out the 2WD rake?  

That seems to be the cheaper option ($75) or a set of the ACOSs ($245) to really dial in the right look.  

 

Moog lists the straight 2WD replacement as CC780 388lb load 126lb/in rate and the 4WD replacement as CC784 561lbs 158lb/in rate .  

There is also the CC782 which is a 503lb load 146lb/in rate.

 

 

 

 

[Pete M]

poly spacers might be the cheapest option, but yes, the upcountry coils will help out a lot.  

[HokieMJ]

Thanks Pete.  I will look into that for sure.  I measured and it looks like it not really all that sagged 6 3/4" from top of the axle tube to the frame.  I'm still thinking some progressive rate springs could be nice for the ride.  

I haven't gotten to centering my steering wheel yet and I'm glad I didn't the TRE at the pitman arm is toast, so I ordered a new one.  Once I get that on I think my steering will be tightened up quite nicely, or the next worn component will be revealed.  

 

 

[HokieMJ]

Yesterday I got my shifter boots installed.  The one on the transmission itself had torn so I had to remove the shifter assembly.  I had a bit of a tough time finding all the right info, so I will put it here for someone else or if I need to do it again.  

The Shift boots that fit are:

1. Crown Automotive J8134064 Interior Shifter Boot - Amazon $7 - This will fit on the transmission itself to seal dirt and debris from getting on the shifter mechanism.  

2. 97-02 Jeep TJ Wrangler Lower Shifter Boot 52078970AC - Ebay $26 - This seals the transmission tunnel from outside.  The screw holes don't match exactly but they are very close I was able to get 3 to fit.

3. Interior boot that snaps to the shifter trim.  I didn't replace this one yet but they are readily available on ebay.

 

I should have taken pictures of the process but there isn't much too it.

1.  Remove shift knob by unscrewing it.

2.  Pull interior boot and pop coin tray off to reveal 2 phillips screws holding shifter trim down.  Remove screws and set trim aside.

3.  Remove 4 screws holding lower shifter boot down.  These used a 7mm socket on my truck.  Slide up and off shifter.

4.  Pop the transmission shifter boot and remove 3 bolts (10mm socket)  and pull shifter assembly straight up.  Should come out no problem.  There are 4-5 parts here ( shifter assembly, ring that bolts down, spacer,  two washers that have a tiny rivet holding them together ( not sure what these are for and mine had separated)

5.  To get the Crown J8134064 Interior Shifter Boot installed you have to separate the shifter assembly and shifter arm.  I don't have a vise so I used some locking pliers to hold the shifter assemble and a screwdriver and hammer to knock the shifter arm off.  I cleaned up everything with some solvent and applied some motor oil before reassembling.

6.  For reassembly build from the bottom up.  Put the shifter assembly back in with special washers, spacer, mounting ring.  Bolt that down (10mm).  Install J8134064 Interior Shifter Boot (this is pretty stretchy so I flipped it inside out and the popped it over the transmission.

7.  Push shifter arm back on.  Install Lower shift boot with 4 screws.

8.  Reinstall trim and interior boot.

9.  Screw on shift knob.

 

I think that sums it up pretty well.  My interior shift boot had been torn and some crap had gotten in the top end so I took time cleaning everything that I pulled and what I could see in the top of the tranmission.  After I reinstalled the shifter feels a bit smoother.  I still have plans to change out he fluid with Valvoline VR1 and some Lucas Oil Stabilizer.

 

Its nice to not have the heat and fumes coming in through that spot anymore.  

Hopefully today I can get my TRE for the pitman arm on and center up the steering wheel.

 

[Drahcir495]

On 3/1/2019 at 8:25 AM, Fryedaddy said:

 

Thats what I filled my holes with. If you have rust try Por15 paint (Paint Over Rust) is what POR stands for.

Did not know that !

 

This build reminds me of all the things I had to do on mine. That was so much fun. Just feel all warm and fuzzy inside reading this . Subscribed 

[HokieMJ]

Got the TRE put on today and got my steering wheel centered up close enough for now.  

Still have a bit of play in the steering which I think I can attribute to the draglink rolling.  I'm going to do the ZJ Tie Rod and RuffStuff the Cure to see if that helps with the last bit of play.  Last piece if that doesn't work is the drag bar itself.

 

Lots to do still, but it feels good getting little things knocked out.

[HokieMJ]

Ordered more parts yesterday.  

Got a Tuff Country 41800 1.5" lift spacer for the front from LiftKit4Less $35, the RuffStuff Cure, new pedal covers for clutch and brake, and some paint to try on the wheels.

I went with the 1.5" to take out a little of the rake and see how it looks.  I measured from center of the hub to the fender and there was about a 2" difference from the front to the back.

Hopefully I will have some time to pop the spacers in over the long weekend and I will certainly take some pictures.

 

 

[HokieMJ]

Got some more parts coming my way to clean up and fix the busted front end.  Still haven't pulled the trigger on a bumps yet.

1.  New headlight trim bezels from Rock Auto

2.  Clear corners and new turn signal lens

3.  Ebay Aluminum hood pins ($20 and the look the same as the ones bleepin is selling for $75).  

 

Also I have a neighbor that owns a Junkyard so I got a WJ brake booster/MC and the flex lines for $20.  Booster is a bit rusty, but I think a little sand and some rustoleum and it will be GTG.

I'm going back to pull the fuse/relay center off of the WJ.  The just got in a 85-86 grand wagoneer.  I'm going to look at the parking brake on that one to see if I can make it work on my busted one.

 

Anything else I should snag?