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Found a couple hairline cracks in the housing, but since its a stamped steel housing they will be easy to weld up and sand smooth, not worried about it in the slightest. 

The rear end will get leaf perches put on for now, but down the line itll get top and back trusses when it gets linked.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Went on vacation, but finally getting back to it.

@Comanche Pilot snagged my old Dana 44 that is coming out of the truck this week.

I also picked up the differential for the new rear axle.

Chromoly full spool with 4.88 gears. Will get matching for the front obviously. 

Funny that ill never have to do gears under the truck, as both axles have third members. image.png.7c367970c40841cdef63c9baae51968d.pngimage.png.768ef14dd7487f84cc8ef353db4bfc65.png

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Swung it in there, the u-bolts should be here today so I can get the perches welded in...and then its just bolting it all together from there.

I got the brake lines/fittings sorted out also...since I am removing the prop valve and going to standard single line rear brakes. image.png.ce57238c25e89b832a123525041f2e46.png

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Welded the perches once the u bolts came in. Set pinion down 1* so that under acceleration it's perfect.

 

The existing driveshaft was just barely too short, apparently the 9" pinion is shorter than the Dana 44 pinion. So drilled some holes in the perches and leaf plates to scoot the axle forward some. Fits good now.

 

Cleaned and painted the housing, and swung it into home for good.

 

 

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Outers and shafts installed. 

 

Still a handful of small things left to do.

 

Also my funny adapter tee to go from a single stock rear line, to -3an feeds to the calipers.

 

Will be keeping the bypass line for future use, likely a handbrake, or split feeds to the rear calipers if I add an adjustable prop valve in the future.

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I previously mentioned there was going to be some fun with the wheel bolt pattern and hub changes.

So the (insanely expensive and sentimentally attached) method beadlocks I have are 5x4.5 with a small hub bore.

The new TTB front end has 5x5.5'' and 3.43'' wheel/hub setup.

The rear axle has a 5x5'' and 2.186'' hub.

Obviously the three different hubs and patterns don't mix at all....

I have a great friend who owns a handful of 5-axis mills, lathes, and material to spare...needless to say its a whole machining operations plant lol.

So the plan is to machine the wheels to 5x5.5'' with a 3.44'' hub bore. At this time the front axle will be handled.

The rear axle is actually narrower than the front end will be by 5''...so wheel spacers at a minimum are required.

I have designed a custom wheel adapter thats both hub centric and lug centric. The trick part is the hub centric is going to be for the axle hub and the new wheel hub. Inside hub will be the 2.187'' and the outside hub (where the wheel sits) will be 3.43''

All hubs will have 1-thou clearance, and the lugs will be next size up in the 1/16th scale. 

Both wheel hubs and bolt patterns will be the same front/rear. Both axles will be lug and hub centric.

This should be a very stout wheel adapter, as the hubs will hold all shear, and the lugs will only be transferring TQ.

And both axles are full float shafts...so in theory this is as strong as it can be given the parts used.

Will have extended 1/2-20 studs all 4 corners. 

 

 

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The new lug studs arrived...beefy stuff.

Need to dismount a tire off one of the beadlocks, and go meet with my buddy to get a spacer and wheel machined and proof of concept done before dismounting all the tires and having another spacer made. 

 


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While I'm twiddling my thumbs since the Machine shop has my parts, figured id look at a project ive been putting off. 

I had originally planned for some aftermarket gauges, but havent found a deal or set that I truly cared much for.

So for now, I am going to use my Ipad as my gauges, and music, and trip computer....like a super advanced carplay basically.

The gauges will go thru a regular OBD2 system reader to bluetooth, music will go thru bluetooth to a sony DSP amp (which I need to get at a later time) and cell connection for GPS and speed, as well as tracking some milage. 

Going to need to play with a few apps to find which I like the best.

But I got a (very) rough 3D scan of the trim bezel, and a 3D model of my ipad, and got it placed. Now just need to connect the dots for some sort of mount. Want it to be sturdy and not shaky, but still easily install/uninstall the ipad as it will only live there when driving. 

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Playing with the gear ratio tools, the old gear ratios topped out at almost 300MPH in 5th, made me chuckle for a good minute.

On a serious note, the 4.88 gears will be a much more usable 1-5th, 80MPH is around 2950RPM which is a bit up there. But this isnt a highway cruiser. 1st gear may be a bit low on road, but off road itll be nice and easy to use the torque..especially being a stage 3 cam thats a bug sluggish until 3k.

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Got the brakes installed and lines finalized (leak test coming soon)

Now just waiting on the custom parts, wheel machining, and diff sealant/fluid. 

Hopefully this coming week it’ll be back on its own weight and driving with a much improved rear axle.

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My dad helped me bleed the brakes yesterday, have the typical issue bleeding the bypass line, but I read about the trick to bleed it, so once I get more fluid, will be doing that soon. 

In other news, with the large fabrication project coming up soon (4x4 TTB conversion) I finally got some scraps together and built my first ever real workbench/Fab table. Will be really nice to clamp things down to this and know it’s sturdier than whatever I am needing to weld on. 

3/16’’ Top, 1’’ plate under the vice, 6’’ C-Channel framing…Still need to find some cheap square tube for the legs.

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